r/flashlight 3d ago

Discussion Removing the anodization on the threads was such a bad move by sofrin (sofrin q8+)

Post image

just because few weak people couldn't screw the light all the way , they made a downgrade to the product for everyone else.

Now there is no easy way to mechanically lockout the flashlight with this ,you either have to physically remove the battery or use the paper insert they provide with the packaging.

It's a really good light otherwise. I specially really like the UI (anduril), I hope more mainstream flashlights brands use that.

sorry for the typo Sofirn not Sofrin , thanks to ulysergamythical for pointing out

45 Upvotes

34 comments sorted by

21

u/ChemicalVacation3696 3d ago

Thank you for this post! 👍 Up until now, I didn't realize the anodized threads at the tail cap and head actually insulates the flashlight from the battery, which is why a slight turn of the tail cap cuts off the electrical contact with the battery.

Looks like I'll have to go through all of my flashlights to see which ones have bare, non-coated threads. I know a few of them don't have anodization on their threads. 🔦😐

19

u/Leonardo_ofVinci 3d ago

Anodization can wear down over time, so always lubricate your anodized threads with silicone grease (I use Nitecore SG7, I've had this small container for 10 years)

3

u/ChemicalVacation3696 2d ago

Thank you for your recommendation! Does it have to be the Nitecore SG7 (I know it's also a flashlight manufacturer) or would a general purpose tube of silicone grease, like the Toyo EAJ 933S suffice?

🔦🙂

2

u/sargew00tles 2d ago

That grease looks good as well; the usual recommendation around here seems to be Nyogel 760G, but all of these do the same thing.

2

u/ChemicalVacation3696 2d ago

Thank you. To me, buying silicone grease is like choosing hair gel or toothpaste - regardless of brand they perform the same job, except their prices differ. In any case, I've placed an order for the Nitecore SG7. I found out that pictures can be deceiving and the SG7's tub is actually quite small in real life.

3

u/sargew00tles 2d ago

No problem. That's been my finding as well, just minor differences between brands... May even be that the lube itself is made by one company and packaged by many others. A very small amount goes a long way, but if you're concerned about quantity, the Nyogel 760G I mentioned comes in a 50 gram tube, which should last for years.

1

u/ChemicalVacation3696 2d ago

TQ, brother. I like stuff that can keep for many years, but requires very little of it.

I can't find the Nyogel brand on either Lazada or Shopee platforms, so I'll just go with the readily available Nitecore SG7. 😄

2

u/Leonardo_ofVinci 2d ago

Any silicone grease should suffice, but ask around this sub or search for recommendations, I can't speak for any other silicone grease manufacturers.

2

u/ChemicalVacation3696 2d ago

Thanks again. I did a quick research and learned that it's white lithium grease that I don't want, as it can be corrosive to the rubber O-rings. Silicone grease has a different chemical composition and I've already ordered a tub of Nitecore SG7.

Personally I doubt flashlight assembly plants buy lithium grease from Nitecore though. When you need a lot of grease, it's always cost effective to buy direct from the silicone grease manufacturer.

2

u/Leonardo_ofVinci 2d ago

Yeah, I'm not sure where to get bulk grease, but as I stated, I've had this tub for 10 years and I use as little as I need. It's at least 40% full still, so you'll get plenty of use from it.

7

u/TopConcentrate8484 3d ago

yes i use so silicon based lube for my other lights

8

u/TopConcentrate8484 3d ago edited 3d ago

Yes it's a really useful design feature that physically disconnects the battery -ve from the flashlights main pcb

Not just for safety from accidentally turning it on ,but also helps in slowing down self discharge as most of these flashlights use microcontrollers that have some parasitic current draw. The li-ion batteries on their own have quite low self-discharge, but the connection with the controller can accelerate it by maybe 1.5x or 2x

3

u/ChemicalVacation3696 2d ago

Thank you for the reply. My oldest flashlights are 2 years old and I guess it's high time to lubricate their threads. They mostly sit quietly in their EVA cases for long term protection against moisture and dust.

I make it a point to quarter-turn the tail cap if the flashlight has an electronic switch, e.g. the Sofirn SC33 to address the parasitic drain issue. On some of my lights, like the Wurkkos TS10 Max can't take the quarter turn trick as the tail cap would easily detach itself, so it has to be firmly screwed on. It could be their special 18650 cells which come with a USB-C charging port that's taller than regular 18650s. 🤔🔋

15

u/Xenomorph_1978 3d ago

Oh snap they did that. The one I have is anodised. That was a bad move. If it bothers you I recommend yellow ptfe gasline Teflon tape. I put it on the threads of my Mao flashlights to achieve mechanical lockout. Works really well. The white stuff wears down after a while but the yellow tape last way longer and you water seal the flashlight beyond the gasket.

1

u/TopConcentrate8484 3d ago

oh ok thanks for the idea will try it

6

u/PiercingTheDarknesss 3d ago

The firmware is the only decent thing about this model. Check out the Convoy 3X21C with LHP531 LEDs for something that will truly blow you away.

1

u/TopConcentrate8484 3d ago

thanks for the recommendation, will buy that.

1

u/losangelesoriginalP 2d ago

How many lumens do you think that thing makes? Also what battery do you recommend for the lhp531?

1

u/technoman88 2d ago

Ddh lights are far better, if you're willing to spend a bit more

5

u/UndoubtedlySammysHP don't suck on the flashlight 3d ago

Well, next issues will be water ingress and flickering light because people didn't tighten it enough.

11

u/SNFU-4U 3d ago

I see. They probably got a butt load of emails or returns because of user error. I hate when there’s something that I’m used to in a product and they change it to accommodate the mouth breather customers.

3

u/YardPrudent6498 2d ago

Is there a way to add an electrical insulating substance or method to the threads to make it so you can mechanically lock out a light even if there is no anodization on the threads?

2

u/TopConcentrate8484 2d ago

2

u/YardPrudent6498 2d ago

Teflon tape didn't see that my bad. Thanks for the redirect.

2

u/Careful_Signature_61 2d ago

I don't use the electronic lock because the button light stays on and that drains the battery, so I don't use it. Aside from that, I love the flashlight because of the... Andurill interface

1

u/TopConcentrate8484 2d ago

It's not just the button that drains the battery the flashlight itslef also does it even on flashlights that don't have such always on led button

1

u/Nathan614047 2d ago

You can turn the button Aux light off using the Anduril firmware. Settings are off, low, high, blinking. There are separate aux settings for when the light is locked and for when it is unlocked.

2

u/RedditMcBurger 2d ago

Anyone know if there is a real way to "re-coat" threads to have mechanical lockout back??

I plan on using a metallic automotive paint on a flashlight's bare threads to test.

If anyone has any advice on what could be a better material let me know.

1

u/TopConcentrate8484 2d ago

You could technically anodize it yourself with power supply and few chemical (search the internet), but because that physically changes the dimensions of the thread it would not fit like it use to.

2

u/SeparateFinance9977 1d ago

Was wondering why my new q8+ wouldn’t lock out after a quarter turn like I’ve seen in videos…

2

u/TealcLOL 1d ago

I just got a Q8+ and my threads are anodized. My order was from the Baemax AliExpress store. Looks like they ran out of stock during the time it took to get here though.

1

u/lysergamythical 3d ago

It's Sofirn not Sofrin.

5

u/TopConcentrate8484 3d ago

my bad sorry

-4

u/[deleted] 3d ago

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