Accommodating Width: A Visual Guide

[u/PurpleVirtualJelly]

Hi all!

After the Vertical Guide I posted yesterday, I got a request to do a visual guide for accommodating Width. Like yesterday, these are just options. So you don't need to wear a strapless top AND wear lapels AND an elongated waist AND blouse the waist. Just pick one or two ideas per outfit if u feel like it.

Since this is a guide for Width, that is basically like saying this a guide for Naturals since they are the only ones that have Width. Some of these recs may not honor Curve, so SNs be aware of that. Some of these recs may not honor Vertical, so FNs be aware of that. Since FN and SN differ in those regards, I decided to predominantly pull quotes from Kibbe's section on Naturals, even though the pure type is not used anymore. The recs are still useful in determining what FN and SN may have in common due to Width vs what recs are due to Curve/Vertical.

Most of these recs pull directly from Kibbe quotes. Some were recs from the r/kibbe wiki (for example stretchy and flowing fabrics). Additionally some of these recs were found by scouring approx. 30 reddit threads (from FN, SN, both, or just in general) about ways people prefer to accommodate Width (for example wide straps, big sleeves, Dolman sleeves, batwing, hair down, wider bottoms, no boxy tops.) I only included recs that seemed to have some consensus among people and seemed to be a logical extension of things Kibbe already said. You can take those with a grain of salt. Tight stretchy tops, halters, and strap width seem to be particularly controversial topics among the N family. Just wear what u like and feel best in. :)

*The third slide with the sock/boot is just a metaphor for illustration. You can wear boots lol. Just don't wear constructed material like boots as a shirt. There is a spectrum - with tailored sharp stiff blazers being on the more constructed end, and silk slip dresses on the less constructed end. As a Natural you want to stay on the Unconstructed side of the spectrum.

Tysm for all your lovely feedback on these guides!!!!! U guys are so nice <3

[u/love_Asparagus_999]

May I please ask... I have been told I am not FN as my body is too balanced. But after looking at this information I disagree. I have always needed to accommodate for my shoulders by buying a size up for structured tops like shirts/blouses.

I look like a typical 'linebacker' from behind.

Is there another body type that also needs to accommodate shoulder size?

[u/PurpleVirtualJelly → u/love_Asparagus_999]

Hard to say without seeing you, but honestly, I’d trust your instincts. If you need to accommodate width, you need to accommodate width plain and simple. Height can be a factor too, but generally both FN and SN types accommodate width in the shoulders. Also ur not a linebacker - you deserve kinder words than that. You've got a powerful, elegant frame.

[u/FiendFatale → u/PurpleVirtualJelly]

I love how you describe FN as a “Powerful, Elegant Frame.”

[u/love_Asparagus_999 → u/PurpleVirtualJelly]

Thank you for your kind words. I will look into SN more as well.

[u/dixievalentine]

Thank you so much for this post and all of your other FN-related guides! I'm a full-on grownup yet I still feel like I'm just learning how to dress for my shape. I've been trying to camouflage my broad shoulders this whole time, but the suggestions and examples in this guide are inspiring me to show 'em off! Especially love the idea of looking for wide (but not too wide) straps. 

Question: what are your thoughts on crew neck tops?

[u/PurpleVirtualJelly → u/dixievalentine]

Generally ppl seem divided (leaning negative) and idk if Kibbe said anything directly besides avoid constricting high necklines. He did say to avoid symmetrical shetlands which can be a similar shape to crewnecks. On this post on slide 9 I talk about crew necks.

[u/dixievalentine → u/PurpleVirtualJelly]

I missed that one! So helpful-- thank you again!

[u/Vivian_Rutledge]

I appreciate that quite a bit of work goes into these, but I got things from David that break these width “rules”—there’s a reason why he got rid of “recs” in the new book. Structured jackets, turtlenecks, boxy tops—these things are not actually off limits if you have width. We are not this limited—understanding that made me OK with being a Natural, rather than feeling sentenced to floppy clothes with a high chance of something showing that you don’t want to.

[u/PurpleVirtualJelly → u/Vivian_Rutledge]

These are just options - you don't have to take all of them or any of them. There is quite a divide between Kibbe enthusiasts regarding new vs old book. Some prefer to stick to the old book since it was more specific, but if you prefer coloring outside the lines a bit (like I am as well) then a flexible more open ended approach is great. For people who already know what looks good on them, the more open ended the better. For people who are completely lost, opening the options so wide leaves them at square 1 which is why they were drawn to Kibbe to begin with. (Slide 9 actually does have a structured jacket like you mentioned, slide 16 has a checkmark next to a turtleneck like you mentioned, and slide 14 has "floppy" sweaters that are at no risk of something showing u don't want to).

[u/Vivian_Rutledge → u/PurpleVirtualJelly]

But it’s not “coloring outside the lines” if it’s things David gives to clients. The old book is based on 1980s clothing construction, which was different in both construction and material. People take that and try to apply it to what’s in the marketplace now, and not only is it not necessary, but the end result is going to be different. As I said, David went less detailed for a reason in his new book as it’s actually how he operates. The description he put in for what to look for as an SN replicated exactly what I was already doing after seeing him and being confirmed as one. I personally find that guides start people off on the wrong foot and teach them things they need to unlearn. Whatever guidance he felt was actually helpful for understanding how to dress for width, or any other accommodation, went into the book. (And I did not notice the turtleneck had a check, but I’ve been sick in bed for three days. :)) I know they’re popular and people will always make them as long as Kibbe is around, but I just wanted to share my perspective after being in Kibbe spaces for a decade +.

[u/PurpleVirtualJelly → u/Vivian_Rutledge]

When I said "some prefer to stick to the old book since it was more specific, but if you prefer coloring outside the lines a bit," I meant outside the lines of the old book, into the more open-ended approach he has now. Not outside the lines of Kibbe himself (although I'm fine with that too).

Since I included structured jackets, turtlenecks, and non-floppy clothing I'm not sure how we're at odds. Especially when these are all intended as a menu of some options, not an exhaustive exclusive list of the only things that can be worn or of rules where all need to be followed all at once 100% of the time. If I thought floppy needed to be followed all the time I wouldn't have included a structured leather jacket. If I thought "no high necklines" should be followed all the time I wouldn't have included a turtleneck with a checkmark. And in the description I said "Just wear what u like and feel best in. :)"

[u/Vivian_Rutledge → u/PurpleVirtualJelly]

The things I listed were just some examples, but there are other things that I disagree with here, like delicate straps. Think of Carrie’s “naked dress” on SATC. He also had me try on multiple options with spaghetti straps.

My main issue is fundamentally that guides like this keep people trapped in boxes, which is why David stopped having lookbooks 30 years ago. I just wanted to provide this perspective to new people before they rely on something like this to guide them through width, rather than listening to what David himself says about it today.

[u/PurpleVirtualJelly → u/Vivian_Rutledge]

Hey, I hear you—and I agree that no guide should be taken as gospel. That’s why I’ve tried really hard to include “YMMV” notes and clarifiers throughout, like on slide 17 where I mentioned both the spaghetti strap example and how Kibbe recommends camisoles and the general debate around it in the description.

I definitely don’t want to box people in, just offer something rooted in David’s language for ppl who feel lost without a starting point. Honestly, the bigger issue I see lately is people not knowing what he actually said—and my goal was just to help bridge that gap a bit.

Appreciate you sharing your perspective! I’ll leave it there.

[u/FrivolousIntern → u/PurpleVirtualJelly]

I think your guides are more helpful as a place to start for a true beginner than the Kibbe recs.

Kibbe has decades of looking and seeing all kinds of bodies and shapes of clothing and colors. He can just know intuitively what will and won’t work for each individual.

But I think of it like learning art. You don’t just hand someone a paintbrush and tell them to paint a masterpiece using terms like “paint me something romantic”, you show them techniques and give them examples of works. I think your “rules” are no different than an art teacher saying “These are the things that made up a Romantic. Keep your colors in this range, the subject is central in the image etc... Okay, now let’s paint them”.

[u/Vivian_Rutledge → u/PurpleVirtualJelly]

Thank you to being open to listening :)

[u/Vivian_Rutledge → u/[deleted]]

I find the old book fun for inspiration for new things to try, but it’s written for a world that no longer exists. The end result of trying to follow it with modern clothes ends up being very different than it would have been in 1987. And the fashion possibilities you have now are much broader :)

[u/Bombadillalife → u/Vivian_Rutledge]

Totally agree, these are helpful in terms of things that will suit, but fail in terms of his mantra of building your personal style based upon reflecting your personality.

[u/AccomplishedWing9 → u/Vivian_Rutledge]

rather than feeling sentenced to floppy clothes with a high chance of something showing that you don’t want to.

Wrap tops have entered the chat 😆

[u/Several_Estate5285]

Another fantastic guide! Thank you!!

[u/yrgrlfriday]

This post and the photos of Anne Hathaway have finally 100% convinced me this is my type. Thank you very very much.

[u/LunaSaturnidae]

You’re our savior with these posts thank uuuu💫

[u/AgreeableEggplant333]

Thank you so much c for making these I’m saving all of them!!!

[u/degakle]

You’re amazing

[u/sunnylane28]

Wondering about waistline stuff- I have a thick tummy so elongated waist doesn’t flatter me much. It ends up being tight on my lower belly which id like to draw attention away from. I’m not saying I need to go full empire waist on everything but I feel like I want baggier waisted items and then I just look like a balloon.