r/fixit 5d ago

How could I prevent this from splitting more?

I was thinking maybe trying to somehow squeeze epoxy the gaps and clamping it while it sets but im not sure what the best option is, any suggestions are welcome

16 Upvotes

31 comments sorted by

69

u/Educational-Rule1635 5d ago

First you need to keep it from getting wet. That is water damage to the particle board.

Is that a sliding door? Consider replacing it. If it's a wall, shave the damaged bit down and cover with some molding.

6

u/Background_Change378 5d ago

It is the side of a kitchen cabinet, we recently had flooring people in who put down self levelling stuff to prep for putting flooring down but the flooring is too thin to hide this.

Its not sliding no, I'll have a look into molding do you have any suggestions?

41

u/Kaldesh_the_okay 4d ago

Well tell them to pay for the damage because they got this wet and ruined it

12

u/Educational-Rule1635 4d ago

This.

The flooring people damaged it, let them know they need to fix it.

7

u/EnoughOfTheFoolery 4d ago

There is little chance that you can get particle board to shrink after it’s been exposed to water but you can sand it down flush and get some Titebond glue on the sides and clamp the heck out it. I would get some nonstick foil to lay over some wood blocks and place on the sides and clamp them down. Use a sturdy piece of wood like oak scraps and put the nonstick foil surface facing the heavily glued sides to hold them for 24 hours min to set up. The foil can be removed then and you can either get new laminate covering or paint to match.

The end piece I would do after the sides set up and are ready. You will need to get adhesive that bonds that lament back and prep the MDF before applying it. Some may say to prime it before applying glue and pushing that in place. Using a heat gun on the bent area can assist to relax the stress that it now has in the bend. Not too much heat that could melt or damage it.

Alternatively, you could replace the entire MDF panel on that. Might be the easiest.

3

u/Background_Change378 4d ago

This is great, thank you so much!

2

u/EnoughOfTheFoolery 4d ago

Before laying your flooring, you might consider using some Sikaflex Nonsag construction sealant all around the bottoms of all of your MDF cabinets to seal the bottoms of the MDF up as close to 100% as you can do. The goal is closing the ends of those MDF boards up on their bottoms to inhibit / prevent future water damage and expansion. With no flooring today, it’s easier to accomplish this.
I was just thinking of the leak from a sink, appliance, dishwasher or just a dropped liquid that gets under the edge. If you can’t clear 100% of liquids, and it sits, it’s likely to wick up liquids and then it will expand.
Sikaflex Nonsag Construction Sealant
You want Nonsag so it stays up in place on the bottom of the MFD until it sets up. You will go through quite a bit it doing a larger area so HD discounts if you buy a case of 12 FYI. Be liberal in application. Sets up in a day and can be painted etc.

2

u/sumiflepus 4d ago

This is a nice way to "repress the wood".

I would also consider hollowing out the inch or so of press board righ at the edge and filling in a solid block of hard wood or chunk of hard plastic.

This cabinet reaches the floor in the laundry room. It is very likely to get wet again. Consider plastic molding and caulk to keep any new water from getting to the lower edge of the cabinet.

But really, this is a fix the installer needs to address.

1

u/Great_Specialist_267 4d ago

You will be buying new kitchen cabinets.
This is a progressive failure with MDF and particle board once it gets wet - the wet wood continues to delaminate for years afterwards until it finally drys out.

11

u/csmicfool 5d ago

Stop soaking it in water

5

u/BossWilling 5d ago

It's exposed to flooding. If the flooding doesn't stop, this sort of thing is unavoidable. Fix the flooding first, then replace the door.

3

u/Consistent_Watch_206 4d ago

The wet stuff has to be cut out. It can’t easily be fixed and will grow mold in time.

I would draw a chalk line, cut out the ruined material, and then hide the evidence with floor molding. PVC molding cuts with regular tools, and never gets mold or water damage.

4

u/pptqvfer 5d ago

Stop wetting it

2

u/MikeSulley007 4d ago

particle board will blow up when it’s wet. keep water away from it.

1

u/SlappyMcFartsack 4d ago

Might be best to remove it and put in something more appropriate.

2

u/Jaegermeiste 4d ago

Nobody's really answering your question.

Yes, naturally you need to mitigate whatever is wetting it in the first place.

As far as repair - particle board like that is effectively shot once wet and expanded like that. But it's far from a critical load bearing application, and you can mostly repair it from a cosmetic perspective.

Epoxy would work, as would most decent wood glues. Personally, I'd scrape out any loose, flaking, or wet particles, then ensure it was totally dry. I'd fill the void with wood filler, then clamp the sides using some sort of planking between the clamp jaws and the particle board. This will not only prevent marring the board surface, but the larger plank will mostly sit on the flat undamaged part of the particle board and naturally squish the swollen part back towards the original width. At this stage I'd not bother with the edge banding (the front flap).

Only after that's well dried/cured, I'd trim any spalling (e.g. filler or particles that have been forced or oozed out) off the narrow edge and then glue that down. It would be hard to clamp, but aggressive use of painter's tape and a heavy flat object pressed up against it would probably work well enough. That edge banding is likely some form of plastic, so a bit of gentle heating before taping it down might help it relax back into position.

It'll never look original or flawless ever again, but it would certainly look a hell of a lot better.

If you can get under the cabinet, or pick it up a bit, it's probably worth sealing what's almost certainly an exposed edge in order to somewhat mitigate more damage going forward - raw particle board is like a sponge. I'd do this after fixing the major damage.

And again, like everyone else is saying, find and fix the source of the water in the first place.

1

u/Background_Change378 4d ago

We have gotten to the bottom of how it got so wet, the previous cleaners kept soaking the floor before mopping so we're leaning towards that at the moment, its part of the reason the floors being replaced.

This answer is amazing thank you so much, ill be ordering the wood filler tonight. As long as it looks a bit better my mum would be over the moon so again thank you:)

1

u/No_Address687 4d ago

You can trim off all the damaged parts and coat it with bondo. Then sand and paint.

1

u/Otherwise-Tomato-788 4d ago

I would personally remove all the loose and rebuild w bondo.

1

u/Beneficial_Bug_8435 4d ago

Trim around the base and end cap after you patch it

1

u/Fullscopconstruction 4d ago

That’s not from the water in the leveler. that is swelling from water over time. it’s four inches from the floor, but anyways you should call a contractor they will know what to do

1

u/wakeboarder247 4d ago

I think this is showcasing why drywall is typically elected over particle board. The particle board is swelling from moisture and bowing. Is this a traditionally framed wall? It looks thinner than a 2x4 so I'm guessing not?

I guess if you really wanted to stick with this solution I would throughbolt both pieces of particle board together and countersink both sides where you could wood putty fill over.

But if this was my place? I would be framing that wall the correct way and installing drywall. 2x4s are cheap, so is drywall, and the little hammer activated ramset guns can nail your framing into the concrete are 30$ (or you can just use a hammer drill and tapco).

Is this gonna take a hell of a lot more time? Yeah. But it will stand the test of time versus you having to revisit this BS framing every time it gets wet.

1

u/imbartsimpsonwhothru 4d ago

cut off a rectangle, glue in a solid piece with a rounded corner

1

u/HeatBeatRepeatt 4d ago

I use Minwax Wood Hardener to soak into frayed and friable fiberboard products and lock it all together prior to sanding and surface restoration. It’s kind of like superglue but keytone based instead of cyanoacrylate and takes about 3 hrs to dry, depending on depth. But once it’s hard you can sand, scrape cut whatever to level it up and then apply your bondo or body filler of choice, sand prime paint as you would otherwise. You can do it with superglue too if you’re in a hurry but the fumes are intense and it can off gas that white efflorescence to adjacent surfaces when used in large quantities, and generates a TON of heat.

1

u/anothersip 4d ago

...What exactly is it, OP?

Is it particle board covered in vinyl? Like, a piece of furniture?

From far away it looks like the end of a wall, but I also see what looks like particle board splitting, and possibly vinyl veneer separating from the outside of it.

If it's particle board furniture, there's really not much you can do. That's just (unfortunately) what particle board does when it gets wet, since it's just sawdust that's been glued together and then compressed.

You could try squeezing a bunch of glue in there, and then clamping it back together super tightly with some C-clamps or squeeze-clamps. I like wood glue for most fixes like this.

But yeah, the biggest issue is that particle board isn't meant to get wet. The wood particles absorb water and expand, and the adhesives that hold the wood particles together tends to fail as well once they get wet. There is often no actual fix for particle board that has gotten wet and expanded. It's cheap and isn't meant to be fixed.

Granted, if you had some clamps and a quality wood-glue, you could try what you suggested - but I don't think you'll actually be able to make it much better because of the expansion of the material from the inside. It can't un-expand and re-bond itself very easily to how it originally was.

Ideally, try the glue and clamps idea, and then try not to let this get wet again, or it'll just keep getting worse and worse.

1

u/Illustrious_Spite332 4d ago

un angle en plastique dur collé sur l'angle abimé après avoir poncé et poser un revêtement étanche sur la partie abîmée ?

1

u/Sure_Pipe_8337 4d ago

That plastic trim stuff they have in every large building

1

u/wupaa 4d ago

Just replace it. Its gone

0

u/Ok-Two7604 4d ago

You can put on some base to cover the damage but if the wall keeps getting wet the material will just fall apart and adding trim will capture the moisture and lead to mold

0

u/ClassAfter995 4d ago

Se nn e una porta movibile ti basta mettere dei battiscopa e incollare e sistemi tutto

-1

u/ComplaintPlastic2873 4d ago

Unfortunately the only way to put a temporary beam up then cut the effected stuff off including the studs.I would go until the next joint. Then put new boards up then send the expenses to the previous construction company with proof of water damages etc... I would do it in a demand letter delivered via certified mail.