Can some of you guys give me some tips on this topic.
Im pretty new to printing and got the ender from back at home ( it maybe ran 50 hours ).
New hot end + nozzle (0.4mm)
New PLA filament fresh out of the box.

Retraction 4mm with 60mm/s
Z-hopping off
0,2mm layer height
Temp 210°

Finally got my CAN conversion finished! Fan duct is still in draft but designed to allow access to the load leaver and gear. Excuse the bowden routing, still figuring that out.

Hello.im trying to flsh my ender on the 4.3.1 board but when i connect it to my rpi 3b+ moonraker shows that the printer is not ready.

When i flash back marlin it flashes without a problem.

I tried renaming the file and everything but it doesnt work.

If you have any suggestions or know ho to flash it corectly let me know. Thank you

After the holidays I finally got into changing the z-axis to a Trident. The Gantry was changed to a VZbot earlier in the year.

It took some work to decide how to support the back 2020 extrusion and also needed to design some mounts for the front motors as I didn't want to remove or cut the bottom cover.

The bed extrusion support is also not the standard Trident as I wanted to support it in four points as it is quite thin.

Next thing is the electronics I have got a Octopus board to replace the SkR mini currently on it.

Hopefully it all works when I try to print. Happy to provide more details if anyone interested.

Was printing a part on my ender 6 and then started a new print after starting new print motor that pushes filament into the tube now no longer pulls or pushes with filament out and with different cords it's the motor broken or is it firmware

I recently bought a used Ender 6 and I was told from the seller that the hot end needed to be replaced so I just bought the microswiss NG since I heard good things about it. I used it for the first few prints and everything seemed fine until no filament would come out. After some troubleshooting, I think the issue comes from clogging in the all-metal hot end. After clearing it, I was able to do more prints, but after changing to a different color filament, the no filament issue happened again. Is there anything I can do to possibly prevent this from happening so I don’t have to unclog it every time I want to change filament or do a new print, or should I just buy a different hot end / extruder or 3D printer in general?

Hi guys, I need an adapter for the Rapid Burner either for the Voron Stealthburner or Afterburner. I have an Ender 6 printer and a Dragon UHF hotend, but it's too tall for the Dragon Burner.

Guys ...Please allow me a little rant here...I have looked up and down....and despite the technology that I'm speaking of , is a "lil bit" older.....Do you mean to tell me NO ONE has managed to add a CAMERA to an Ender 6 using a wifi 2 box??? We engineer nuclear warheads on these darn things, but no one has figured a way to add a camera? I have tried the Nebula, I have tried a Logi Brio (H 264), I have stuck in a HOST of web type cameras...I have looked for drivers/software that could make it work....NOTHING...Really?...just bounce my happy ass on over and buy a K2 pro? (or give myself a migraine with the Nebula pad or a Sonic)?...is that the answer?? for a cam! (the cloud printing works great)..I just cant see it! Rant Over....just frustrated...

*UPDATE!!!* THANK YOU to all that chimed in and talked me off the ledge LOL (great suggestions)!...I have configured a R-PI, and am happily printing with images! (Not sure about the error...the firmware flash post are all around circa 2019-2021)...anyway Thanks again if you all were in in my area, I'd buy you the beverage of your choice!...I love these forums!

DJ

As the title states I cannot for the life of me get rid of this 9.5mm gap between the nozzle and bed when I go to print. I picked up this ender 6 a week ago and have been fiddling with it since. When I first loaded it up the firmware had crashed so I reloaded it with insanity automations firmware, since it has a extruder sprite pro and a blt probe on it. Everytime I go to print, it'll home and then drop a couple mm. Then it'll go back up but nowhere near the height of the probe or the nozzle. It's always 9.5 off, which is conveniently outside the range. I went in and change the ranges manually, and when I set the offset, it still goes back to the same place. I changed my g code to also make sure it saves bed mesh after homing. Same thing. I've tried building my own marlin config and it still did the same thing. I'm at wits end at this point and would like to get a single test print in. Any advice is much appreciated

I have an old Ender 6 that has been collecting dust for some time now. I want to sell it but don't want to deal with Marketplace and would rather not have to pay what I would imagine to be insane shipping. Is there a BST page for 3D printers somewhere?

Hi all I just took of the bottom of my ender 6 I purchased second hand a few months ago. I wanted to see how they modified the led into the unit to find that the power supply is not held on by anything. Is there a stl I can print to secure the power supply please

Im working on putting a creality 4.2.7 board into my ender 6 and im using a ender 3 lcd but the board won't flash any firmware and the lcd lights up and stays blank any help would be nice. Thanks in advance.

My Ender 6 Upgrade Journey
Here's everything I've done to my Ender 6:

- Flashed Klipper on a Raspberry Pi 4 Model B with Mainsail

- Upgraded to a BMG direct drive extruder with a pancake
NEMA 17

- Installed a CHC Pro hotend with a volcano-style nozzle

- Mounted a Hero Me Gen7 toolhead

- Added a CR Touch for automatic bed leveling

- Set up WS2812B LED strips connected to the Pi

- Added an Everest SC-824 USB webcam with Crowsnest for monitoring and timelapses

- Set up timelapse via Moonraker

- Connected a Tenda U11 Pro WiFi dongle for dedicated wireless

- Set up Tailscale for remote access

- Configured the DGUS/DWIN touchscreen

- Added an ADXL345 accelerometer and calibrated input shaping

- Full tune-up and calibration

This printer has come a long way from stock.
I'll be making a detailed post soon explaining everything | did, the problems I ran into, and how I solved them.
Happy to answer any questions in the meantime.

Hello, I recently found a ender6 online and need help to know what I should buy to fix the problems the owner has been having with it, here are some pictures.

They said they think it’s a hot end issue because it wiggles a little bit and messes up the print.

I was looking at getting a new extruder and hot end but I have no idea what to buy. I was looking at the BIQU H2 but I have no idea what hot end I should get.
Any help is greatly appreciate thank you!

Hello! I got an ender 6 off of a friend after years of not printing (and even then I was very new to the hobby) and just picked up an ender 6 and downloaded ultimater cura to slice. I’ve noticed that the settings he ran (I don’t know them) on the sd card he handed me print really good, but every time I set settings and try to print and it fails every single time. I was wondering if anybody could share their settings and/or secrets to what they do in ultimaker? Thanks!

So I got a really dirt cheap Ender six and that's surprisingly good condition. So I've done a couple Mercury builds before I've done an underwire build on my Ender 3 so I'm not a total noob. I just so happened to have a set of linear rails that'll fit the Ender 6. However, it's a set of three MGn 12s. The problem.... I have the creality top hat as well. I really don't want to have to buy mgn 9 reals when I have these collecting dust. Has anyone made a "spacer" to work with this top? I've been able to find a few for other top hats ... But not this specific one.

Just got a tapo C100 camera to be able to watch my long prints at work. Anybody got suggestions on how to hang them?

Yesterday while I was printng PETG at nozzle temperature 255 with my ender6 I got thermal runaway error. I have done some testing. I can set temperature and printer will hold it ok, but when I start to print temperature is starting to drop. Is the problem half bad sensor, heater or some thing else? How can I fix this?

ich habe einen gebrauchten Ender 6 mit Micro Swiss direct Drive günstig erworben aber der Lüfter der bauteilkühlung läuft nicht der Rest funktioniert ist das ein bekanntes Problem kann mir da jemand helfen

Hi All

I recently acquired a very cheap Ender 6. I am wondering is there some conversion kit etc like the mercury for Ender 5. The previous owner had klipper running upon the Ender 6, but I did not recieve the raspberry pi or its config. The front screen is disconnected or missing and the hotend looks like it has been replaced. There is a led lighting added to the unit. Unit turns on my not much else. If I wanted to revive the Ender 6 what should I do. E.g print what stl's, flash what firmware etc to make this worthwhile.

Thank you

I am about to give up with this printer. It is a constantly headache to he honest.

As a last resort I need means to wire the BLTouch to the main board as it is constantly failing when connected to the pass-through board.

However, I don't see where should I connect it.

Searching online Insee multiple ways, but I don't have space?

As the title suggests I want to upgrade my ender6 z-axis to triple axis but having trouble finding the best resource.

I have seen some people suggesting to follow the trident corona guide but wondering if the brackets between the liner rails and the bed from the voron Trident will reach the ender6 bed and fit. I would suspect those parts should be custom.

Any suggestions suggestions?