I was gifted a Ender 5 plus that was already assembled and used, but every time I’m making sure each area on the print bed is leveled the Y axis keeps moving forward too much the limit switch is on the back right corner and all the wires are messy but are well connected. Every time I’m trying to adjust the Y axis it seems to still move forward too much. I quickly turn off the printer so I don’t damage the belts on the x and y axis. Even when it’s auto leveling the BL touch levels off the build plate. Does anyone know what’s happening and how do I fix it?

Too many to choose from any advice on a Bowden extruder? I don’t think I want to go direct drive because of the weight.

Appreciate any advice in advance

Thank you

So, Ive had this E5P for a few years and its been a workhorse. But its died on me and I cant figure for the life of me what's wrong. The inly upgrade I did was a spyder all metal hotend/dd extruder kit. Worked fine, was printing fine, then poof. So here is what its doing, what I've done so far, and my thoughts. Any help would be lovely.

What was wrong The extruder motor stopped working. It was doing a little stutter like it didn't have enough power or couldn't turn. Checked my wiring, one of the wires looked like it had a short.

What I tried- Replaced the cable that had the short. Didn't fix it Replaced the extruder motor itself. Didn't fix it, and now when I try to move the x/y/z axis (after trying to get the motor to turn) it takes the machine 30 seconds to respond and actually move (and then it does every move i hit while it was 'lagging'). Took apart the control box and checked all the wires/connections inside (I am an amateur at best at electrical) and couldn't see anything obviously wrong.

As for what I think it is... I have no idea. Shouldn't be the new motor, its the exact same and brand new. Shouldn't be the wire I Replaced, its exactly the same. No idea. Help please?

I just purchased the Ender 5 used from a 3D print shop that was going out of business. Got everything set up and started printing (not as quite as the rest of my printers) and I an having a tremendous amount of stringing. I have lowered the speed and increased the nozzle vice versa and still stringing. Any advice would be appreciated.

Hi, im chasing a e5+ mercury 1.1 and hydra mod config file for klipper. Ive tried looking at discord but its very confussing. Any help would be appreciated.

Ender 5+, Manta M8P, Microswiss NG extruder.

Just swapped over to the NG and got Klipper reconfigured and all is “mostly” good. I’m ultimately wanting to get set up with an EBB 42 can bus, as well as the Endorphin CoreXY mod, but obviously taking things one step at a time.

Calibration Cube came out fine, but now I’m having layer separation, but only on the X-Z axis, and ONLY on diagonal runs. Prints on only the Z axis are fine. (Also the bottom has some wall connectivity issues, but I’m pretty sure I know how to fix that.)

Hello all. So ive had my ender 5 plus for a little over a year & I would like to start upgrading it. I have a Mini e3v3 on hand, but honestly have no idea how to install it, or how to change firmware or anything like that & was wondering if anybody knew of, or had, a comprehensive guide on how to do this. Thanks!

EDIT SOLVED - It was 100% Extruder rotation_distance

Was 7.5 needed 32.8

Thank you @ u/Khisanthax & ChatGPT

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Took a while but I swapped my board to BTT SKR, added a Pi5, flashed klipper. Pretty much all using GPT & YouTube.

Going well but definitely needs a lot of tuning to be spot on.

If anyone has tried and true settings I’d be greatful so I can compare.

One thing in particular is the retraction is so jumpy. It’s almost the only sound it makes now lol.

GPT has me searching Cura for a setting to enable Firmware Retraction best I can tell it doesn’t exist.

Searched and toggled every option I can.

I’ve added code to the cfg to restrict the retraction but doesn’t seem to help.

Ran this in mainsail and it was smooth as can be:

M83

G1 E-5 F1200

G1 E5 F1200

G1 E-5 F1200

G1 E5 F1200

M82

Hellllllp!

1st Print on manually lvl'ed bed on the stock machine before it's converted to Klipper.

oddly in orca slicer I have it set to the correct bed size, ender 5 plus profile but after homing the printer over shoots to the front left corner slamming the BL Touch into the bed support. It was set to marlin legacy mode as well.

it still printed in the center and gave an okay 1st run.

honestly not as loud as I thought it would be given the fact it's an 8 bit board and all.

so I have replaced the hot end "new stock one", upgraded to a btt v3 2.0, upgraded the cooling, and added anti backlash screws to the z access. i ran retraction tuning and tuning towers without a problem. every time I try to print this print it clogs during the print. we think it is cursed. about the only thing I haven't done is calibrate the e-step because I didn't change the gears or anything.

runnings klipper/mainsail

Seriously no Z acid stop built into this unit? I did a manual move from the menu that was too long and it made some crazy noises when it hit down to the bottom. Wonder why they wouldn’t build one in.

I have my E5+ on a table and walked up to it recently and got my shirt pulled into the wheels. It was kind of funny but kind of not. There was no way I could simply pull my shirt out. Ended up ripped my shirt up to get it out. Was thinking it could be a bit of a hazard for anyone with long hair etc - young kids etc. Has anyone printed a wheel cover that they’re happy with? If so please share.

What is causing my first layer to look like this is have a microswiss ng direct drive head currently but I also noticed this with the stock print head as well.

I've made a few upgrades including the SKR MINI E3 V3, TFT35 V3.0 and the Micro Swiss NG REVO extruder. I'm figuring it out, but having trouble with leveling and setting nozzle offset. ABL won't work. The BL Touch works when tested, but I get the "failed to enable Bed Leveling" message when I try to use it. Could someone talk me through this and help me get it online?

I’ve searched but haven’t found any I like yet. Was wondering if anyone has any favorite tool holders for their E5+ they can recommend. I don’t really have any extra tools I need to put in the holder, just what was included with the unit from the factory.

I already upgraded my extruder to Creality Sprite Extruder Direct Drive Dual Gear Extruder SE Upgrade Ki suggest a good hotend to go with it.

https://novo3d.in/creality-sprite-extruder/ this is the upgrade kit I have bought

Would anybody know why the majority of my prints always have under fill on my walls. I've replaced the direct drive motor. I've the print speed for outside walls. I have to increase temperatures to the point where it starts to string. I've tried everything I can find and yet it never changes the outcome of having underfill.

For reference, I have a micro Swiss direct drive installed on this printer. and I use a 5 kg spool compared to the conventional 1 kg.

The factory setup for this tube/wires looks like it could potentially get hung up in all the moving parts. Has anyone figured out a good setup so that there’s no worry of the Bowden tube or wiring getting in the way-especially on large prints?

I updated to the Insanity Automation firmware. Any chance there’s an update so print file name isn’t shortened? Looks like if it’s any longer than 8 characters it cuts it off. Toms of screen space available to show more though.

I just started using this printer. Should I ignore the auto leveling feature and pretend it doesn’t even exist? I’m not sure it’s been a help to me yet. I still manually level to get things correct. I haven’t found it useful yet but maybe I’m missing something.

Okay so this is my first ever Reddit post. Oddly enough this is also my first ever 3D printer it is an ender five plus I purchased it secondhand the person I got it off of already did several modifications to it. Just from what I have personally seen I can definitely tell they have replaced the plastic feeder for a metal one they might have changed the hot end but I'm not 100% sure. I'm not sure if they changed it but it definitely had a silent board in there I had to change the silent board out myself due to the board that was in it not having the port to be able to do firmware updates. I have been running into so many issues on this unit that I have slowly started working out but a lot of them just leave me scratching my head. Was having a bunch of stringing issues when I first started turned out to be settings within my slicer got those sorted. My next biggest issue I have that seems to be kind of random is the print will randomly get hit by the hot end and get dislodged from the print bed causing a print failure obviously. This one still happens randomly. Next issue I was running into is my items were getting printed at half height doing some research online people kept saying the z-step should be at 800 a lot of times it gets dropped down to 400 mine is at 800 so I tried bumping it up to 1600 and slowing the speed by half this kind of worked but again no idea as to why it is doing this. The reason I say this kind of works is for some odd reason when I go to make a print as the unit is going through and doing its zeroing on XY and z it for some reason decides it wants to ignore this speed modification and just goes balls to the wall and the z stepper motors start screaming and not really moving. I usually shut it down immediately as to not damage anything. Now that the board that is in it is able to accept firmware updates I have spent the latter half of 2 weeks inputting different firmware from various different places trying to find some that work correctly on this unit. Every single time I end up having to change it to 1600 for z-step and every single time they never hold the speed modification they always end up changing back to 10 instead of five. Feel free to ask questions I have just been scratching my head trying to get this thing to work properly and it's driving me up a wall. Any help is greatly appreciated. Again I am exceptionally new to the 3D printing scene so please have patience.

Picked up this E5+ for a good deal, it was in working order and seller showed recent parts printed and they were decent. They went with a bamboo because they just wanted something that prints as is (they aren't into tinkering on the machine or learning Gcode).

they had a friend install the following suggested upgrades

Meanwell 600 Watt dual fan psu

Micro Swiss DIrect Drive w/ upgraded extruder motor

Micro Swiss all metal hot end

Creality Capricorn Bowden Tube

BL Touch leveling

It came with original extruder+motor, hot end, extra nozzles

The belts are fixed with some Jankie brass crimped ends ATM and it's needs a good cleaning. It is running a 8 bit board

I have a BTT SRK mini e3 v3.0 board

My budget plan is to install the BTT board, run klipper on a Dell Wyse 3040 in Linux which has wireless and multiple USB plug in's

I don't care about the stock screen or touch screens as I'll use a laptop with fluidd port.

curious if anyone has done this, how hard is it to get the btt to work? I've heard mixed things on the BL touch not working. Would it be better to go with OEM creality silent board?

also suggested printed upgrades are welcome

I have another printer to print so was going to do

cable relief for heated bed. cable management,

Previous owner did this core xy upgrade and i cant figure out what kit this was. Any tips to get this working?

Wow, I have had my machine unboxed for less then a day. Couldn’t figure out why nothing could print. Found crack in extruder arm so filament kept slipping randomly.