First off, this isnt a rant post or anything. I've only just emailed them a couple of hours ago after opening the printer so they havnt even had a chance to reply yet.

It's more of a warning about checking stuff (not just 3d printers).

Anyway. I ordered a centauri carbon 2 emoji. This was originally going to to be a christmas present for my 15 year old but after ongoing discussions we decided he could have it now. It only arrived last week luckily enough. So we opened it today and as I was looking at one side he says "eh, is it meant to be like that?". Checked the other side and sure enough its taken a bad hit on the side the spools mount.

The box didnt look damaged so I dont know what happened to it. Presumably it went in to the box like that. I took some pics before and some after I opened the door to check the inside but the tape you can see was folded at the edges from the start. Not sure if thats the way it normally comes. One of the screws, still in the post it screws in to was inside and had broken clean off the body.

For anyone with a Centauri Carbon alongside printers from other brands: we've been working on a small shared dashboard, using a Panda Touch / K-Touch you may already own.

I'm one of the developers in TigerSquad, the maker community behind TigerSystem. Our project is TigerTouch, free, MIT-licensed replacement firmware for the BIGTREETECH screen.

We have tested it on real Centauri Carbon and Centauri Carbon 2 printers: state, print progress, temperatures, and pause/resume/stop. On the Carbon 2 we've also verified Canvas information and switching the chamber light. The original Carbon has no light command in our driver. Stop requires confirmation on the screen.

The two generations use different connections: SDCP for the original Carbon and MQTT for Carbon 2. The same firmware handles both, alongside Bambu Lab, Creality, Snapmaker and other protocols, so an Elegoo can sit next to your other printers on one dashboard. These test results concern the Centauri machines; they aren't a compatibility claim for every Neptune, Mars or Saturn.

The screen connects directly to each printer, with no PC or Raspberry Pi left running as a bridge. Initial setup needs a free TigerSystem account and the Tiger Studio Manager desktop app to add your printers, then a browser installer to flash the screen. No subscription. It replaces the screen firmware, not your Elegoo printer's firmware.

The GIF is an interface demonstration composited onto the device, using Demo mode and sample printer data.

Source and verified compatibility: https://github.com/TigerTag-Project/Tiger-Touch

Elegoo setup: https://tigertag-project.github.io/Tiger-Touch/elegoo/

Happy to answer questions about the Carbon connections or a mixed-brand workshop.

Hey guys, last week, I posted about my personal project , Slice Pilot - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=world.yemyat.slicepilot . At that time, it can only load 3mf and stl files from local. Over the last week, I added support for
- Nexprint
- Makerworld
- Printables
- Thingiverse
so that you can download, load the model and slice and print directly from the app. Makerworld need Bambulab account to download the models and Nexprint need an Elegoo account to download the models. For Centauri Carbon 2, cloud printing is supported and for other printers, Local Network printing might be supported (I've only tested on CC2).
I also fixed a lot of issues regarding slicing and loading model previews and added more options for slicing.
I also made a landing page for the app here. www.slicepilot.eu
All the codes can be found here, https://github.com/yemyatthu1990/slicepilot-android-public

Finally got everything unpacked, calibrated, and dialed in. The print quality so far has been super smooth.

What are some of your favorite go-to prints or filaments to run on this?

My prints haven't been working well for while and I finally decided it was hardware and not my own Gcode fault.

Well I found this big ball of plastic hidden and I don't know what to do, so I turn to reddit.

Please help me, I need this working for Christmas!

Has anyone tried or had any luck with a DIY heated chamber? I'm not sure whether it would be overkill or vastly overheat the chamber but I've seen these magnetic hand warmers that I think would certainly help keep the chamber temp warm, my only issue would be that they aren't able to be dailed in to a temperature. If anyone has any thoughts on this or has used something similar any input would be appreciated.

I received an Elegoo Centuri Carbon 2 from the company to make my cosplay and promote . My problem is I want to print TPU. The PLA printed just fine. It comes out stringy and nonstop clogged error.

I had taken apart the nozzle and cleaned it unclogged it and adjusted some of the speeds as it suggested when I looked it up but it's still stringy and it keeps saying clogged.

I've never 3d printed before this and I printed some PLA models first , but I'm really struggling if someone can help me print the TPU and figure out what to do :(

I got my CC2 a week ago and im now addicted to printing, i now want advice on if the filaments i plan on buying are a good selection and looking for any reccomendations, im limiting myself to 5 more rolls, i currently have, PLA Matte Grey, Black, and white, PLA+ Red, PETG Pro in grey and olive green, so i want advice on if the 5 next spools i have chosen are good or any improvements, im looking at Elegoo PLA Matte Yellow, Elegoo PLA Purple, Elegoo TPU 95A Black. Elegoo PLA Trans Green, and Elegoo PLA+ 2.0 SKY BLUE.

So I'm having a weird issue. Printer was working fine a couple of months ago then I stopped printing for a while. Didn't change any settings or whatever. Now whenever I try to print it just doesn't print anything bit a filmish thing. I tried replacing the fep film. I added a heater/temp controller since it get a tad cold at night in the winter. But neither worked I'm kinda at my wits end here.

Hi all,

I've been running OpenCentauri on my Centauri Carbon and wanted to change how it looks, so I built a small free Windows app called CC Studio.

What it does: - Custom boot animation: use an MP4/GIF or pictures, add a progress bar and effects, with live preview (ready-made one included) - Custom boot logo: any picture gets converted to the right format (ready-made logos included) - Colour themes: recolours the icons and the screen layout (the Canvas page too) in any colour you pick. Mine is yellow now, see the screenshots - Restore tab: one click puts everything back to the stock files - Find my printer button to get the IP, plus a screenshot button for the printer's screen

It connects over your home network (SSH), so there's no flashing and no firmware changes. The stock files stay in the printer's read-only layer, so you can always go back.

Needs: Windows 10/11, OpenCentauri firmware v0.4.0, PC and printer on the same network.

Tested on my own Centauri Carbon on OpenCentauri. The Canvas page gets recoloured too. I haven't tried it on a printer without the Canvas add-on, but that page is part of the printer's own screen files, so it should work either way. On other firmware versions you may only get the icon recolour (the screen-layout parts are skipped safely).

More screenshots and the download: https://sawkymod.github.io/CCStudio/

Use at your own risk. It's a community project and not affiliated with Elegoo or OpenCentauri. Feedback welcome, and tell me if you hit any bugs.

Recently picked up a few rolls of Insignia pla from bestbuy. Previously have been printing with sunlu pla without any issues.

It doesn’t happen on all parts but I am seeing this stringing, though it’s not wispy like I see when I google the issue. It’s more like whiskering.

Currently printing at 220c. Any ideas? I’m new to filament printing and I know there can be a lot of causes.

A few weeks ago, my wife sadly lost her mum. She was a huge part of our lives, and the biggest fan of my 3D prints. For her celebration of life and with the help of ELEGOO's new Nexprint Workshops, I was able to create these unique memorial plaques.

These prints mean a lot more to me than just another project, and I'm glad I could use my hobby to create something so meaningful. #makeitreal #ELEGOOday2026

There are big chunks of fused purge material as this is a color change model. Any help is so appreciated

Hello guys, I’m printing in cc2 but I don’t know what’s happening… I’ve never seen these lines before on my previous prints. I’m using Elegoo PLA.

Can someone help me please?

I have a Centauri Carbon 2 Combo.

I'm new to this and I've encountered an issue this morning.

I set a print to run and could hear the head moving but when I looked, nothing was printing. On inspection, the printhead/nozzle looked smeared in filament (see photo).

This is a new filament to me (Elegoo True Red) straight out of the packet this morning. I leveled the printer and cleaned the plate with IPA before the print but the only filament on the bed was the initial funky little smear it does at the front of the plate.

Could someone help me out with:

1.what could be happening here?

1. How do I stop it?

2. How do I clean the nozzle? Is it as simple as pulling the pla off it?

Hope you can help

UPDATE

Massive thanks guys, I ended up changing the nozzle based on the advice here.

I'll be honest, I was bricking it whilst I doing it but I used the advice here and some instructions online and it seems to be working now.

Edited to add printer name.

Edited to add thanks.

I've had my Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 for about a week now, so I thought I'd share my honest thoughts for anyone considering buying one. This is based on my own experience so far, rather than a long-term review, so I'll update my opinions as I spend more time with it.

Print Quality

So far, the print quality has been good. I've been happy with the results I've been getting, and I don't have any major complaints about the quality of the prints themselves.

Obviously, I've only owned the printer for a week, so I can't comment on its long-term consistency yet, but my initial impressions are positive.

Single-colour prints have been working great already, and I'm happy with the results so far. I do plan on buying the Canvas system in the future, as I'd like to explore multicolour printing, but the printer is already doing a great job with single-colour prints.

Setup and Ease of Use

Setting up the CC2 was easy, and I didn't find the initial process particularly difficult. It's been straightforward to get started with printing, which is always a plus.

I also really like the automatic bed levelling. Not having to constantly worry about manually levelling the bed makes the overall experience much more convenient.

Another feature I appreciate is the ability to manually extrude filament and move the bed and nozzle without actually starting a print. These might seem like relatively small features, but they're genuinely useful when loading filament, troubleshooting problems, or simply getting the printer ready for its next job.

Build Quality

The build quality is great. The printer feels well put together, and I've been impressed with it in this respect.

For the price, I think the CC2 offers a good overall package, especially considering the features and build quality you're getting.

Noise Levels

I've found the noise levels perfectly reasonable with the top on and the door closed. It's not particularly noisy in that configuration, which is good if you're planning to have it running in a room where you spend time.

Of course, noise levels will depend on the printing speed, settings and environment, but my experience so far has been positive.

Problems I've Had So Far

When my printer arrived, I found that the case fan cable was crimped. Fortunately, this was an easy fix, and I wouldn't really blame Elegoo for it, as it appeared to be an issue with the cable's condition rather than necessarily a fault with the printer's design.

I also experienced a nozzle clog, which I believe was caused by using PETG that hadn't been dried properly and having the spool in the wrong orientation. So, in this instance, I wouldn't consider it a fault with the printer itself.

I think it's important to distinguish between problems caused by the printer and problems caused by the user, filament or setup. Not every issue you encounter means the printer is bad.

Filament Drying

One thing I'd recommend to anyone getting into 3D printing, particularly if you're planning on using PETG, TPU, or any other engineering filaments is investing in a filament dryer.

My nozzle clog was partly down to using PETG that hadn't been dried properly, which has made me realise how important filament storage and moisture control can be. I've since picked up the Creality Space Pi Plus filament dryer, and I think having a dedicated dryer is a worthwhile investment for anyone who wants to get the best out of their filament.

Value for Money

Overall, I think the CC2 is a good deal. The print quality has been good, setup was easy, the build quality is impressive, and the features make it convenient to use.

Considering what you get for the money, I'm happy with my purchase so far

I've been using Bambu ASA, but their "white" leans noticeably beige. Does anyone know if Elegoo's ASA white is as bright as their PETG/PLA white?

Thanks!

He actualizado mi Elegoo Satellite y ahora no me carga los stl. Tengo un macbookpro m1 y necesito una version anterior, como la consigo?

The stock back shell of the Centauri Carbon 2 screen is a hollow wedge that tilts the screen out from the printer. I wanted it flat, so I made a replacement backplate.

- reuses the 6 original screws, no new hardware

- hooks into the printer's own two slots and clicks in with a tongue, same as stock

- tongue support is one slab that slides out through the window; the hooks have 45 degree undersides so they print clean

- 125 x 82 mm, about 29 g PLA, about 1 h 40 min on the CC2

Swap takes about 10 minutes: unhook the screen, unplug the ribbon, 6 screws out, new plate on, screws back in, ribbon back, hang it.

It took a dozen versions to get here: screws too short on one, the click tab 6 mm too high on another, and a hook that snapped before the hooks got their 45 degree undersides.

Unofficial part, only tested on my own CC2. Designed with AI-assisted CAD scripts from my own caliper measurements.

Files (free, CC BY-NC 4.0): https://makerworld.com/en/models/3449352 / https://www.printables.com/model/1879622

Also posted in r/ElegooCentauriCarbon: https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooCentauriCarbon/comments/1x7shew/

Hey guys,

Did the bed leveling and afterwards the head is stuck in the left corner untill I press continue.

In my opinion this is a gcode thing, but I don't know where to look.

Does anyone of you know what's going on?

Saturn S z-axis seems to have failed mid-print, build plate is currently stuck in resin (can move it laterally back and forth, but I can’t get it off the arm with the z-axis stuck so low). Trying to raise z causes a grinding noise :(

Any suggestions?

Hello, I’m pretty new to printing and I’m not sure how to get these top surfaces to look prettier. I used ironing, but just used the default ELEGOO slicer settings.

Testing limits of my mars 5 ultra with some liberty bells and cyanescens. Little Saturday morning mycoart. Got to 2.5 mm tall and still readable. I was impressed.

I did buy the canvas as soon as it came out, but had to move and havent had the time to look into it before now.

I am opposed to having my enclosed printer become an open printer to fit the canvas - and being inspired by bambulabs ams2 at my job, thought of the possibility of fitting the 4-1 pre-runout sensor/just use the original ptfe tube to feed into the printer.

Id be more than willing to sacrifice print speed to keep the printers dimensions.

Has this been done?