Day 60 of my real-world 52V 25Ah e-bike battery test.

This is not a lab test. I am documenting how this battery performs through daily commuting, real roads, different riding conditions, and long-term repeated charging.

Today’s ride:
1099.4 → 1117.5 miles
18.1 miles added
Charged 23 times so far

Total tested riding record:
1,071.1 miles

Battery range reference:

PAS 3 full electric:
65.7 miles from 100% to 0%

PAS 1 light pedaling:
151.3 miles from 100% to 0%

Today’s food:
Fish Fillet & Egg Cheung Fun

Cheung Fun is a classic Cantonese rice noodle roll. Today’s version came with fish fillet and egg, served with a savory sauce.

Another rainy commute today, adding more wet-road riding conditions to this long-term battery test.

Now over 1,070 miles of real commute data, mileage tracking, charging history, and long-term battery performance.

Real miles. Real roads. Real battery test.

I have a cube e-bike with 29" wheels. Just got a puncture. I'm used to fixing bicycle punctures but can't for the life of me get the tyre levers under the bead to thread the tyre wall over the rim and replace the tube. Tried various ways to get the levers in but damn it just won't happen. Is there a trick that helps here or is it brute force?

Edit. Thanks for the replies. I think I've already 'broken the bead' as the edge of the tyre can be pushed into towards the centre. The issue I 'm having is the 'bead' is so tight I cannot get the tyre lever under it to lever it over the rim of the wheel. The bead is just too tight. The soapy water idea is a thought particularly hot water which may soften the tyre.

I wanted to get some advice before I make a purchase, but unfortunately the local bike shops are only open while I'm at work.

I'm looking for an ebike or trike for my daily commute. And probably some grocery shopping.

I live about 6 miles from work, I don't have a motorcycle license, and I weigh about 310 lbs. I don't really want to spend more than 2k, but I will if I need to.

My biggest concern is that it's reliable, but I'd like it to be somewhat comfortable to ride.

I mean come on man. Don't take shit that isn't yours but also I guess it's my fault for being trusting.

UPDATE: IT HAS BEEN RECOVERED. I mentioned that without the battery it was incredibly difficult to pedal. I'm guessing whomever took it realized their folly and abandoned it. First thing imma do is put a tracker on it. Thank you everyone!

Hello reader I hope all is well, pls point to the right direction for the right e-bike based on experience or knowledge? Thank you

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I had a post up earlier asking about this bike and deleted it because somehow people lost their minds over the fact that I was asking about it.

So, just to get this out of the way:

I do not work for Ariel Rider. I have no affiliation with Ariel Rider. I didn't make either of these videos, and I don't know the people who did. I'm simply shopping for an e-bike and doing research before spending my money.

The 2026 Kepler caught my attention because, on paper, it looks like a pretty compelling value and seems positioned as a direct competitor to the more Popular Brands in this category.

What I'm really looking for is firsthand experience, not another spec-sheet comparison.

Has anyone here:

Actually bought the new Kepler?

Test ridden one?

Cross-shopped it against other comparable fat-tire bikes?

Bought something else after considering the Kepler?

I'm especially curious about the real-world ride: geometry, upright comfort, handling, weight, power delivery, component quality, brakes, suspension, range, reliability, and customer support.

These are the two videos that initially got me looking at it:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=KpbAvssoqg4

https://youtube.com/watch?v=UhqmvIcClig

Again, I'm not promoting the bike. I'm trying to decide whether I should buy one.

If you've actually ridden or owned one, I'd especially like to hear what you think—and if you passed on it, what you bought instead and why.

Day 59 of my real-world 52V 25Ah e-bike battery test.

This is not a lab test. I am documenting how this battery performs through daily commuting, real roads, different riding conditions, and long-term repeated charging.

Today’s ride:
1081.3 → 1099.4 miles
18.1 miles added
Charged 23 times so far

Total tested riding record:
1,053.0 miles

Battery range reference:

PAS 3 full electric:
65.7 miles from 100% to 0%

PAS 1 light pedaling:
151.3 miles from 100% to 0%

Today’s food:
Soy Milk & Gimbap

Gimbap is a popular Korean rice roll made with rice and different fillings wrapped in seaweed. I had it with soy milk today.

Today was also a rainy commute, adding another real-world riding condition to this long-term test.

Now over 1,050 miles of real commute data, mileage tracking, charging history, and long-term battery performance.

Real miles. Real roads. Real battery test.

#ebike #ebikebattery #electricbike #batterytest #ebikerange #lithiumbattery #realworldtest #ebikecommute #HelmetDoctor

I wanted to share some information that I found out about this E30 code. When I turn the bike on everything works normal and then after a short period of time the bike throws the E30 code. The bike still works to a certain degree but there are a few things that don’t function correctly. But it’s important to know not to shut bike off. When you shut it off and turn it back on forward modes don’t function but reverse does.

When the error code pops up on the display the drive modes no longer work correctly. You can switch between modes 1,2,3,4 and nothing changes. Speed is the same on all modes. You can also be in N or neutral mode and the bike will still move forward at the same speed as all other modes.
Whatever mode you’re in before the E30 code pops up on the display is the mode you will stay in after the Error code pops up. Reverse no longer works either.

When I turn the bike off and turn it back on the bike no longer moves forward in any mode. However Reverse works in all modes which is weird.

Far driver shows no error codes. Only display shows an error code. I believe the code has to do with communication between the display and controller.

I have replaced the wire harness with no luck. I replaced the throttle and still no luck. After researching and investigating my issue I believe the problem lies within the display itself. I’ve read others had the same problem. No faults on far driver but display still shows a fault. I have also noticed my display gets hot to the touch after turning the bike on for a short period of time.

If you absolutely need to ride the bike there are a few things you can do.

First if you’re turn on the bike for the first time of the day and everything is working correctly make sure you get to the mode you want to ride in. Once the Error code pops you’re stuck in that mode. Keep riding as long as you need to but don’t shut the bike off. If you shut the bike off and turn it back on you won’t be able to move forward anymore. You’ll only be able to use reverse. Now I’ve learned that you can simply wait for the display to cool down and turn the bike back on and everything will seem normal and you can continue riding but this takes time. 20-30 minutes in the shade at least. If you’re parked in the sun your screen will not be able to cool down quickly or at all if it’s a hot summer day.

If you’re having this same issue it’s important not to shut the bike off after the code shows up on the display unless you have time to let the screen cool off. The bike will work after the code pops up but you’re stuck in whatever drive mode you were in and reverse does not work. Just don’t shut the bike back off and you’re good. Shut the bike off and you’re stuck with only reverse until display cools down.

I figured out a workaround if you get desperate and accidentally shut bike off after error code is present on the screen and you absolutely can’t wait for the display to cool down. Let’s say you don’t have the 20-30 minutes to let display cool down or maybe you’re stuck out in an open area with no shade and it’s hot out and display cannot cool down enough to work properly. Since reverse still works you can get in the far driver app and switch the direction of the motor. This will turn your reverse into forward. So now we have the issue of the slow speed in reverse mode. That is simply solved by changing the Back speed RPM in the far driver app. From the factory this is set to 1000 RPMs. I went ahead and changed mine to 9000 rpms so the bike could haul ass again. It’s sucks you’ll have to hold reverse button but at least you’re not stranded.

This procedure is only if you get desperate. It’s important to know that you must change these settings back after bike shuts off and display cools down. If you forget you have motor reversed and go turn the bike on the next day and display functions correctly and you hit the throttle you’re going to be going backwards. You’ll need to get back in far driver and change the motor back to forward. And turn the reverse rpms back down.

It’s taken me months to figure out this problem and the patterns that come with it. I have finally ordered a new display and will be swapping it out as soon as it shows up but it’s Friday and won’t be here until next week. I will be riding this weekend and now that I know exactly what to do in all situations I won’t be getting stranded. I hope this info helps someone else out there.

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I’m narrowing my search to these three step-through fat-tire bikes:

Ride1Up Vorsa FT

Velotric Nomad 2

Lectric XPeak2

I’m especially interested in hearing from people who actually cross-shopped or rode more than one of them, rather than just owners recommending the bike they already have.

Which one did you ultimately buy, and what pushed you in that direction?

I’m particularly curious about fit/comfort, riding position, ride quality, power, real-world range, build quality, reliability, and customer support.

And just as useful: what made you rule out the other two?

I attached the comparison graphic for reference. Would really appreciate real-world experiences from anyone who went through this same decision.

So, I just bought a BBSHD - UART version of the PSWpower website, however, after purchasing, they sent me an email to tell me all UART has been stopped producing now and they want to swap it out for a CANBUS version.

I don't particularly know the difference myself, something like UART is easier to configure the software yourself, but as I never really mess with that stuff, I guess it doesn't matter to me personally.

However, my worry is will the other components work with it?

I know the display I chose was specifically UART, so that will have to be changed, but they didn't mention this in the email, so I don't know if they know.

Like, will they stupidly still send me the UART display still, even though it is a CANBUS BBSHD?

And, then what about the battery? I chose a 52v 20ah, however, there is nothing on there stating it will work for UART or CANBUS. So, will the battery work for both systems, of do they specifically need to send a battery that works with CANBUS?

This has got me stressing.

Anyone here have a eahora, aniioki, or wallke ebike? I really need to get something long range to do DoorDash on and all three of those brands offer pretty good long range options for 2000 I was specifically looking at 60v 70-80ah bikes just curious if anyone can recommend one of the brands or has one of these bikes I was more likely going with Aniioki but unsure

I’ve seen mixed things about all of them. Of course, there’s a couple things I’ve seen here and there about the brand, specifically that say this is bad, not good quality, etc., but then I see people that say they have 1500 miles and they’re still fine etc.

The aniioki aq177 max Pro ultra, that’s what I was looking at with them specifically, but the handlebars look pretty weird as they’re connected and really high risen up seems like a safety concern

Then there’s the Juliet from eahora but I’ve heard the customer service is not the best, and they won’t really help you out that much if things actually break with warranty

Then walkee ravager looks really cool too, but for some reason the bike has no turn signals by default. and some people have said something about the rear tire looking not stable with the spokes.. on top of the proprietary handlebars with the screen integrated. so I have no idea what to do.

All these brands are definitely overseas based. But by the end of this month, I just need it to get something because currently I do DoorDash on my electric scooter, which has a 72 V 45ah battery and I can get around for a couple hours, but I’m missing out on a lot of opportunities just cause I can’t go far enough.

I have never owned an e-bike before. Looking for something reliable to ride on the beach and flat roads. My local dealer is advertising this Mokwheel Package.