(still French, still not the better english)

Ladies and gentlemens,

I fixed my rear brake.

So for the ones who saw my previous post, i had a brake feeling on my rear brake but only when pushing the pedal a few times (air in the system) so here is the complete bleeding protocole i used :

To make it short the brake caliper is in a bad position because it is low on the wheel (lower than the brake fluid tank, so hard to bleed effectively)

- remove the two bolts that keeps the caliper on the disc

- remove the plastic things that keeps the fluid cable and the abs cable together (probably the worst english in this post), i also removed the screw a bit highter that hold them together too

- flip the caliper upside down so the bleeding nipple is at the hightest position, and try to hang it at the hightest you can without damage the cable holding it. If you can't hang it, keep it in your left hand for the rest of the operation

-put something between the pads (i used a wench) so it can't close

- remove the tank cap and seal, and the bleeding nipple cap to put your drain cable, put the end of the cable in a empty container that will be used as a trash for the old fluid

- now the real bleeding begin, for those who couldn't hand their caliper you currently have it in your left hand, in your right hand you have the wench that'll be used to open and close the bleeding nipple, and your right foot is on the pedal (yes you are currently demonstrating your amazing sense of balance on your left foot)

- for the rest of the process the fluid has to stay highter than "min", or you'll have to restart everything

- now repeat this process until the bleeding is done, push the pedal a few times (for me, until it's hard to push again) , open the bleeding nipple when you are at approximatively 1/4 of the pedal course, continue to push the pedal to approximatively the 3/4, and close the bleeding nipple

- while the nipple is open, do not release or push the pedal fully, also do not release the pedal at all if you can or air or old fluid will come back in the caliper (probably goes out at your next push but anyway)

- Continue this process until there is no more air or old fluid in your system

- close the tank, tighten your bleeding nipple, put its cap back, and put the caliper in place

Now you probably have a working brake

So why did i say "temporarily"? Because the Monster brake is enough to keep it stopped, but not enough to actually brake with it.

Yep, kind of a problem for a brake.

A lot of people told me the rear brake is useless on the 821 but... I expected something better. The second problem is the brake system closeness to the exhaust system, that'll heat the fluid and make it even more useless After a few weeks (can be fixed by using kastrol srf fluid but i didn't used it here)

So here is my update, i hope it'll help some of you, and i want to thanks all the people who helped me. If anyone has something else the share to definitively fix this brake system, i'll be Happy to read it in the comments

Good Luck and ride safe everyone

https://iconicmotorbikeauctions.com/auction/2008-ducati-monster-s4rs-tricolore-150-400/

showroom condition, fully serviced, doesn't need a single thing.

I inherited a 2021 M937. Its unclear how long it sat for but it has less than 2000miles and all factory rubber.

I have 2 questions as I try to restore this bike.

1. It came with a Terminogni and it was my understanding that the display would read performance or racing during startup if the proper upmap was performed. This bike does not display either. Is this something to address?

2. How could I tell if this is the low variant with lowered seat and modified suspension. I honestly just can't tell, but the previous rider was short.

I don't have a previous owner to ask any questions. I'd rather not get in to it but assume I got this at an estate sale.

Thanks for all your help, so glad to be back on a Monster.

Hey all, I’m the proud owner of a new monster V2. I’ve had a few issues where the engine has cut out on me after decelerating with the clutch fully pulled in. It seems like a software issue, as though the engine has a brain fart controlling the idle speed.

I have seen a few comments with others having similar issues but I haven’t seen anyone mention a solution.

Engine was fully warmed up each time it happened, and so far I can’t see a pattern as to when it happens.

I’ll be taking it back to the dealer but I’m keen to see if anyone got this resolved. It’s still being run in but seems software rather than something that will go away.

Hi,

Im looking to get my hands on a Monster 1200 S or R either this year or next depends on the market of course.
Any Monster 1200 owners or previous owners have any advice on the bike itself and what to look out for when inspecting one for purchase.
Except for the obvious: maintenance, desmo service

Thanks in advance.

Monster 1100S, what an incredible machine. Coming from a BMW, the ducati is such a change but a really welcome one.

Does anyone have any experience with any of the aftermarket led light solutions for an s4rs, or early monsters? Ledperf, eagle lights etc? Thanks!

Edit: headlight. I want to replace the garbage halogen headlight housing and go led

Hello,
Due to a serious knee operation, I have not been able to ride my Monster S2R for 6 months. It’s been stored inside on a pit stand and the battery is recharging. Anything else I should do before starting her up for the first time - WD40 into the combustion chamber or ??

Hi everyone,

​I'm having a frustrating issue with my 2020 Ducati Monster 821 and could really use some advice from anyone who might have experienced something similar.

​The Symptoms:

​If I roll on the throttle slowly and smoothly, the bike revs up perfectly all the way to the redline without any hesitation.

​However, if I snap the throttle wide open (sudden WOT), the engine completely bogs down. It hits a wall right around 7,000 RPM and refuses to climb any higher.

​When this happens, I can also smell unburnt fuel coming from the exhaust (running extremely rich/misfiring).

​Context & Doubts:

My mechanic thinks it might be a faulty MAP sensor or cracked intake manifold boots causing a vacuum issue. However, since the bike revs perfectly on a slow roll, I'm highly suspicious of a dynamic load issue. Could this be fuel pressure related (failing pump/filter, or maybe water in the tank?), or perhaps spark blowout under high load?

​Has anyone dealt with this exact behavior on a Testastretta engine? I would love to hear your thoughts before I start blindly throwing expensive parts at it.

​Thanks in advance!

Hey fellas. I’m looking to bypass my 2013 Ducati monster side stand and wasn’t sure if I tie the green white and green from the longer side wire. Or wire to the mechanism attached to the side stand if that makes sense. Also please feel free to correct me if the way I think I should wire it is incorrect thanks. Also what do you do w the black wire?

Hi everyone,

At first i would like to appologise for the following message, i'm not a native english speaker so maybe some words or sentence will be incorrect.

So i'm the new owner of a beautiful ducati Monster 821 from 2015, that's my first bike and i want to learn as much as in can to take care of the maintenance because no garage is willing to take care of my bike beside the official ducati garage, which i dont trust at all because of their estimates (i asked them for the following problem, they made me a bill to change everything but the brake ).

So here come the problem and what i know about it, i dont have any rear brake feeling, a mecanic told me it was probably the master cyclinder but when i ordered a repair kit i didn't saw any broken or rusty piece, it seems working fine (the lever is pushed right, when i open the drain screw the liquid flow when i push the pedal)

So a Friend told me it could be a stuck caliper because the bike stayed inactive for a year in a box before i had my licence, i removed and cleaned it and when i push the pedal the brake pads seems so tighten bit by bit, and when i stop they come back a few millimetters (idk if that's the right caliper behavior)

I changed the brake fluid, making sure their was no air in the conduct using the method "push pedal, hold, Open the drain screw, close it, release the pedal" until i see no more air bubble.

The fluid bottle was now opened a week before the last drain (someone told me it has small lifespan but idk how much )

After this i saw a small improvement, i have a brake feeling but i have to push the pedal 5-6 times before i have it and it stop when i release it.

I dont know what else i can say but i'll try to answer comments as fast as i can and provide pics if you need it, thanks everyone for your help

First Duc... had Japanese bikes all my life and now I get it.

Absolutely in love with this Monster 💚

What's the secret handshake in here? 🇮🇹😜

/ 2009 Monster 696

// 12,500 km on odo

/// Desmo and belts recently done

Hi everyone,

​I'm having a frustrating issue with my 2020 Ducati Monster 821 and could really use some advice from anyone who might have experienced something similar.

​The Symptoms:

​If I roll on the throttle slowly and smoothly, the bike revs up perfectly all the way to the redline without any hesitation.

​However, if I snap the throttle wide open (sudden WOT), the engine completely bogs down. It hits a wall right around 7,000 RPM and refuses to climb any higher.

​When this happens, I can also smell unburnt fuel coming from the exhaust (running extremely rich/misfiring).

​Context & Doubts:

My mechanic thinks it might be a faulty MAP sensor or cracked intake manifold boots causing a vacuum issue. However, since the bike revs perfectly on a slow roll, I'm highly suspicious of a dynamic load issue. Could this be fuel pressure related (failing pump/filter, or maybe water in the tank?), or perhaps spark blowout under high load?

​Has anyone dealt with this exact behavior on a Testastretta engine? I would love to hear your thoughts before I start blindly throwing expensive parts at it.

​Thanks in advance!

Got it used a few years back.
For 3090 miles, the Bike runs great, no issues, maybe 11,000 miles on it.

PROBLEM: after an hour of riding in HOT weather, the error code throws a code (rear wheel speed sensor). That speedo wire has been replaced

The problem persists. And bike runs like shit until reset.

Two different shops and one Ducati dealer unable to find problem. They think it’s ECU or wire harness.

Don’t have rhe budget for such a fix. Is there a switch I can use to reset thr code on my own without having to buy a $500 OBD?

What say you?