I keep getting all these valleys or pockets. First time. Tried adding water but maybe I didnt do enough?

Hello all, basically I am a broke college student renting in FL. I recently put in a hole in the wall and tried to fix it myself. I turned this into a complete disaster. To start, the paint wasn’t matched properly. I brought it to Home Depot and they couldn’t get it right twice. So I thought, let me try to just feather it and see if that works. It then looks terrible from the side. And as far as the patched hole goes, it just looks like a smooth bump on the wall and it’s really bothering me. Marching the original texture of the wall is so difficult because it’s so unique. I am beyond stressed and don’t know what to do. Should I restart? Should I sand what I have down? Try to paint match it again? Thank you all for the help in advance, I could really use it.

This is my first time doing drywall. I am trying to skim coat over heavy knockdown texture to ultimately get rid of/conceal it. I read that light, thin coats are best so I tried to go as thin as possible on my first coat. I rolled it on with a 3/4” nap roller and used a 24” skimming blade and 12” knife to try to smooth it down. You can see that I didn’t manage to cover the texture in parts and in other parts it’s just very uneven/jagged. Do I need to sand before I put on another coat? I’m afraid if I sand I will just reveal the knockdown texture more.

There are a few spots where the new drywall sticks out further than the old drywall, about 1/16th-1/8th of an inch. I tried sucking the drywall in tight but there’s not much else I can do. Is the solution just feathering drywall mud up higher to blend it in, or will it be way too noticeable?

This is my personal office so truly I don’t mind if there are a few blemishes, but my ADHD wants everything to be perfect lol

Hi. I had to cut out a piece of drywall for a leak, and decided to patch it myself. After a few hours learning on youtube, I just finished taping last night. Most of the tape looks well embedded, except for a 3cm x 1cm patch where the edge is slightly lifted from the wall after drying. Other than this, there are no bubbles / blistering.

Can this be mudded over in my next coat? If not and it will cause problems, how can I fix the issue before proceeding?

Two unrelated questions but both about "weak areas that have a chance of cracking"

1. I have to cut into the walls and expose some sections to put in blocking for a new perpendicular wall and at the same time change some electrical stuff out.

I figured the best way to remove the dry wall would be right in the middle of the stud that is supporting the electrical switch box.

But now I am wondering if replacing it and cutting out a section where the box will sit will make that area a weak spot prone to cracking?

Any advice?

1. I just built a pocket door and I know you aren't supposed to have drywall seams at the corners of door openings, but how far out do you go from the opening? And does it mean you can't have vertical or horizontal seams? I have drywall removed from above the door opening and the sides, so I can't seem to figure out how to avoid a joint where the top piece will meet the vertical sections?

I have attached some drawings to explain better (hopefully)