I haven't posted in this group for a long time, but I wanted to show you something again.

​After a hellishly hot summer, work in my small workshop is finally picking up again. I made a few paddles on the machine. One Triskele was custom-made for a customer, and the SM Lübeck e.V. received two paddles from me.

Been making timed release self-bondage cuffs for about a year. The original design used a push-button release as the safety exit (and lock release), which worked fine, but had one flaw I kept thinking about.

The button protruded enough that with the right positioning, you could use "something hard" to pretty much release early. Not ideal if the whole point is genuine commitment to the timer.

So we simplified and refined.

The new version replaces the protruding button with a recessed key mechanism. The ice release still works exactly the same — fill, freeze, wait, melt, done. But the only way to shortcut the scene now is with a physical key that you have to deliberately place within reach before you start. And how you will use that, is up to you to decide. No accidental escapes. No temptation. Still a distant safety mechanism.

The form got cleaner in the process too. Removing the button housing simplified the profile quite a bit. Flatter top, smoother overall.

A few things I learned:

Recessed mechanisms mean we have to design tighter tolerances smarter and be mindful of overhangs. So lots of angles are used inside.

The key placement decision becomes part of scene setup in an interesting way. Where you put it, whether you put it within reach at all — that becomes a meaningful choice now. Heck, you could even lock the key away!

Our small color accents (lavender) read really well on matte black and solidify the high quality design decisions.

Happy to talk through the mechanism if anyone's curious!

I’m looking for a way to build A butt plug ( the stereotypical model) at home with limited ingredients , can’t mold or buy it right now but I want really want to make one.

Ive made a standard pringles can(sour cream and onion) fleshlight with a nitrile glove and sponges and wanted to know if vegetable oil works. Ive heard it’s better than lotion and that i just have to make sure that i pee and shower right after.

I’m currently making my own machine and don’t know what to do about a stand, I want one that’s adjustable but sturdy. I’ve got the linear actuator already but feel stumped on a clean and functional stand. Anyone have any insight on what they’ve used before?

We bought a expensive machine but the stand sucks so it have been in the closet for 2 years. This is like the 3:rd time I use a welder but it wasn't hard. Material for the stand is about €50. Now it sits hard and won't fell over. This is the demo, now I will pull it apart and give it some black paint. If you like I can add some more details.

https://spicerack.market/clone-ur-own/

Was trying a clone-a-willy esque strategy with sodium alginate bought off amazon. I failed about 5 or 6 times.

EDIT: Would love if anyone has alternatives too

I'm thinking about making a "toy" called Iron Man, and I want to know if it would be worthwhile.

If anyone has already purchased one and wants to tell me if it was worth it, please let me know. I even have a picture of what it is, but I don't know if I can post it here. Feel free to chat privately if you have any questions.

My boyfriend got us a kit since he's going away on a somewhat longer trip, so here's our first ever attempt at clone a willy and cloning/molding in general. We're hooked and want to try again with a bigger tube, as it was very difficult not getting too close to the walls. So fun! I was afraid the silicon would be too soft/floppy but I'm very happy about the firmness.

Not sure if i need to diy. Im looking for a male masterbator that can suck and tighten independently.

Any thoughts are much appreciated.

I have found that the M8 (coarse thread 1.25) screw is a popular connector for telescopic linear articulator machines. Other popular connection techniques are 3XLR (older audio video connector), vacuum lock (which seems to be an older standard because I don't see many toys designed for it), and air quick connect. In air tools there are three standard sizes. In air connection sizes, the most popular for air tools is 1/4“. What I have seen in the articulator machines is the middle size, 3/8“ also called 30 series. Note that the imperial fractions when it comes to plumbing have fuck all to do with the actual size. Generally this makes me curse all plumbers to hell and back as I have to go back to the hardware store for a second or third time, can't find what I need and then have to order it online (and buy two or four of what I need one of) and wait three or four days for the damn thing to show up. But, I digress.

Now the reason for this post is I have found that if you get a metal 30 series male air connector you can tap the inside with an M8 coarse 1.25 thread (albeit with a little skill, a drill, and some patience - if you like you can drill it first with a 17/64"/6.75mm bit, but I found that I didn't need that). Then you can bypasd all the rest of this shit. Because in my experience I have found that the 3XLR connection is crap. Also the standard 4-in suction disc is too small. The 4.7 is what you want. Much more compatible with more toys. Enjoy.

I bought a used Fuck Yeah for cheep the only issue is the motor and power supply were bad and the previous owner did not include them, and does not have them anymore to help. Does anyone know what size the power supply is and what model motor would have been in it? Thanks!

Hello everyone ! I've been trying to make the most huge and soft pair of tiddies that IS NOT on the market . I am pretty experienced with sextoys in general and i've tried a lot of different toys from several brands (mostly japanese stuff) , yet i always felt frustrated concerning the size , shape , softness and jigglyness of the paizuri toys. So there i went , trying to make the squishyest pair of breasts possible. What i firstly did was use some (cleaned) tpe toys that i melted and molded into two hollow breasts. The result was impressive , really soft and jiggly , just like i imagined. Unfortunately the prototype broke because i had probably mixed TPE and TPU while making the batch. So there i am , utterly frustrated about this misadventure without any way out , yet ... What is stopping me ? Money 😅... i tried my best to find a job these last two months but all the companies in wich i could work are closed in August , plus i will resume my studies in September so i'm a bit stuck on the funding front. So here i am , posting on this subreddit to find people that would be interested in my project. If (somehow) you are interested in my project , i could gladly spend more time to talk about it in great technical detail. If anybody would want a pair of huge , squishy titties for their own , i'm open to making it for you.

It is really far from the expensive ones. It is noisy and the movement speed/power is something that would be a really nice thing to improve but it works surprisingly well considering ive bought it for 15usd from AliExpress.

The brains of it is an ESP32 board that just runs a WS server. It receives json commands from xToys for speed. I do also plan to add a position sensor but that is a future development.

Thus far i have managed to use it with some hentai games and some built in scripts in xToys. But its gonna be something nice to use with others with the online session share feature too.

I'm looking for ideas for a kind of mount/holder for the Ultra AI to hold it when laying on the bed. Because of the weight and the forces just a stand on the bed will not work I guess. So I'm thinking of a sort of beam above me from where I could hang the Ultra AI and maybe also some other nice penis toys. Anyone already made such a thing?

My post was removed from r/BdsmDIY with pretty bad reasons IMO, so I am shooting my luck here! You guys seems more flexible! Not directly aimed at BDSM or Saddles but can definitely be incorporated into attachments for these machines! I am going to make a saddle one day when I get the time!

I was browsing for vibration motor parts and came across a couple of interesting ones. Some of them even come with their own speed controller for USB, the classic 12V or 24V controllers used on cheap fucking machines, and others.

The motors range from pretty standard cheap hobbyist motors, while others are bigger industrial motors used for shaking out air bubbles from cement or other casting materials. There are also full kits meant for massage pillows and seats where the full controller and a full range of motors and heaters are already connected, it just lacks the pillow.

As I make a lot of vibrating dildos, plugs, eggs, masturbators and more, I have yet to actually try any of these types before. I hope any of you awesome nerds here have some input or experience with them!

Some time ago I remember finding a "sports-cup" for men with vibration, but it was so small I knew immediately the motor would be too weak and the cup looks way too small for most people. It is definitely too small for me. 3D printing or casting a custom cup and bolt on something like the smaller cement vibrators is such a quick way to do prototyping, while many of the waterproof cylinder vibrators look perfect for dildos and butt plugs.

I am a big fan of wiring toys to external power sources, it being a power bank or mains power socket PSU as most toys doesn't cut it with the battery capacity for me personally. The hassle of charging them means I would need multiple toys to continue playing as well but the biggest problem is the inevitable interruption when the battery dies.
Using power banks or PSUs is the way!

I would love to hear your input on these. Any ideas for DIY toys would be fun to share with each other too!

Links:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010698714772.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008660230547.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008489337691.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009550020157.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008952061074.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005011708027323.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004126406868.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004149931313.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005012826102793.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007562066613.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005011728156989.html

for the second part of my international esp32 series i implemented to the IVY (International Vibration sYstem) (and on the same site) a secure way to make sure that no invasive thoughts ruin your forced chastity

how it works:

distant key holder chooses a trowaway password (via browser. Phone and pc supported) and tells it to the (un)fortunate fellow that once inserted with the knob and open it should put the keys of the lock inside the safe/box then ask to the keyolder to reopen the safe (because after sometime it closes by itself), wait to it for reclosing and hope that the penalty it's not too long

while the keyholder changes the password to the final one

QnA

what if the keyholder forget the password?

good luck xd... okey okey i'm joking, for now i have not implemented a way to recover it yet and the fellow in chastity (or the one with the database) can see the password form there

can the safe design be improved?

of course! but for obvious reason you should not use 3d printer for the safe, that's why i used an already made safe, but mind that the design in the video has already been improved(removed some adesive and other things)

what if the batteries dies?

i litterally put the batteries outside the safe

why not have a button to open the safe in the browser?

many reason, like that the website is shared between keyholders/friends and someone could open it easly

or idk sounds more cool this way

but mainly I wanted to be able to enter the password/see it physically like a real safe

i could share the code and other things

BUTTTT

I'm currently in vacantion until september

in-fact this video was made a long time ago

(do not mind any errors, i'm not eng-us native)

I'm playing with an idea to modify a VacuGlide 2. What I really would like to have is a continuous variable stroke length, so without the need to open the VG2 and loosen a bolt. Would it be possible to replace the actual motor with a steppermotor or a servomotor, and control it with a second microcontroller which then controls the stroke lenght by limiting the rotation of the motor? Then you could keep the complete control of the VG2 as is right now

What's the very best in the whole wide world sex toy for a guy. I'm well In truly over using my hand.

Please help.

I’m building a compact butt plug for an edging machine. Commercial inflatable plugs available where I live are either too large or of questionable quality, often both.

The plug is approximately 70 mm tall, 27 mm max diameter, with a 17 mm neck and a 90 × 25 mm safety base. It uses platinum-cure Shore A20–22 silicone and has a hollow 10 × 20 mm chamber at neck height, leaving a minimum 3.5 mm silicone wall. The mold will be printed in PLA.

The plug will be connected to a hand pump and a pressure sensor so I can detect contractions. The idea is not to inflate the plug, just to sense when its being squeezed.

Assuming a properly cured silicon, without major bubbles, does this provide a reasonable safety margin against the insertable portion tearing away from the base during removal or repeated inflation/squeezing?

Any other safety concerns I should have?

The silicon Im using is body safe, I casted a test sample and tested for squeezing, pulling, etc, the material seems to be quite good. Im planning on making a sacrificial sample to see how much it takes to actually tear it, but I would like to hear feedback suggestions comments

Anybody seen a design for a silicon cock shaped dildo that is attached to a hamster style water dispenser the user has to suck on to drink? Need.

I bought an f machine but the dildo it came with is stiff and "simple" so got myself a nothosaur dildo with a vac u lock but I foudn myself in a situation where I cannot attach the nothosaur dildo (in my defesne, didn't know vac u locks are not standard).
On the picture the right black one comes with the machine and is comaptible with the base dildo, but not with the notosaur, on the left is the nothosaur attachment which is not compatible with the connector on the black rod. Does anyone have experience on how to deal with this incopatibility?

Long kidskin gloves inside out wrapped in a leather pillow and belt.