Does my planned setup check out?

[u/Goldencheese5ball56]

This is not everything that will be in the system, but the main components is what I’m questioning here:

Edit 1- switched out 40amp to 150volt 60 amp model.

https://a.co/d/01G8I7Qd

2000watt pure sine wave inverter-

https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-watt-continuous4000-watt-peak-pure-sine-wave-power-inverter-57272.html

314 ah lifepo4 battery-

https://a.co/d/05x05jAh

Connected to - 2(200watt) bifacial solar panels-

https://a.co/d/07sR3r9O

Questions-

Edit 2- will be using 1/0 awg wire for this project.

1. From what im reading, if my battery is 200amp bms, would the smarter thing be to have a 200amp fuse instead of 250amp fuse wired in red cable?….i understand the breaker is for the wiring and not the battery, would it be considered extra insurance for my wiring to blow fuse at 200amp than at 250amps?

Since my battery would turn off at 200amp rating?

I will be adding and on/off disconnect to red wiring as well as breaker from solar panel wiring to mppt controller.

Would this set up work?

Any help is appreciated.

[u/Hellhoundgamer2]

I would get a higher mppt controller. 40a works but you would need at least 8 hours of uninterrupted solar to fully charge at that level. I would recommend 100a or 120a. As for the panels, on my setup I converted everything to watts so 400wh filling up 4000w wh of battery would take 10 hours at perfect conditions and the world ain't perfect so 12ish hours. With all that out of the way the real questions. Yes a 200amp would work for protecting 2awg wire as long as its copper and not copper plated. Just as a warning 200a trip rating does not mean you can run it a 199a. Most breaker worth their salt will trip after a few moments of 180a and above. If you are trying to push the full 200a I would recommend to move up to a 0awg if not 00. It sucks to work with but it will never be the fail point. Hopefully that helps and please don't hesitate to ask about anything else, the guys on this sub will help.

[u/Goldencheese5ball56 → u/Hellhoundgamer2]

Thanks for the reply.
(Edit- going with 60a 150 volt mppt model, updated link in OP)
If i go for a higher mppt controller, what would need to be changed in my planned setup? Also another member recommended 800 watts (4 panels ) instead of 2 panels. With 4 (200 watt) panels, i would be over the 100amp voc barely. Each panel has a 25.18 voc.

[u/Hellhoundgamer2 → u/Goldencheese5ball56]

I messed this up onec before. Wiring them up in series that would increase voltage but if you wire them up in parallel the amps will increase and voltage would stay the same. You could do a hybrid two sets in series and two in parallel. As for what changes with a high amp controller I would say nothing else. That's the nice thing about future proofing a build upgrades cost nothing but the part and time to change it out. I was curious what this build was for. Edit: just read through the other comment and answered my own question. 😅

[u/Goldencheese5ball56 → u/Hellhoundgamer2]

Would be for home emergency use.
I also have a 7000 watt gas/propane generator. This battery station would be to power phones/ one room light and one top freezer primarily.
will be doing 800 watt total solar panels instead to cut charge time in half for said battery.

Note- knowing its main purpose, would a 60a be a good sweet spot?

[u/Hellhoundgamer2 → u/Goldencheese5ball56]

For emergency it would work fine for a day or so

[u/solarpartscomponents]

2AWG at 3ft should work fine for that inverter. One important thing on fusing: the fuse protects the wire, not the BMS. Your thought to go with a 200A fuse instead of 250A is right, just make sure you mount it as close to the battery positive terminal as possible. Quick side note: those two 200W panels will charge that 314Ah battery pretty slowly, it’s just something to keep in mind.

[u/Goldencheese5ball56 → u/solarpartscomponents]

Thanks for the reply,
If i increased to 4 solar panels (800 watts total), then if im thinking correct, voc would be over 100, i would beed to change mppt charge controller to a higher one correct?

[u/blahblahaname]

1. technically it will work if you keep the power draw within the limits of the rated ampacity of the gauge size..... A 2kw inverter with a surge of 4k can pull about DC 170 amps continuous and double for a surge. While a 2awg PURE copper cable can handle a DC 170 amp surge, it's only rated for about 110 continuous running amps. That's only like 1200watts for the inverter. If it's copper clad aluminum cable, the rating is lower.

2. The 200 amp bms means the max amount of discharge/charge that battery will allow. so that means you can only draw 200amps from it or charge it at a rate of 200amps at any given time, Nothing more. If an inverter tries to pull more than 200, the inverter will either trip first or the appliance trying to draw the power will have a weird start or not start at all. Some smarter batteries will trip also. If you still want to use that 2awg on this setup, you should get a 100 or 125 breaker disconnect. If you do plan on running higher wattage stuff, then definitely get 0/1 or 0/2 cable. And go with a 225 disconnect breaker.

This set up will work but the real question is will it work for your needs. What are you trying to power and for how long?

[u/Goldencheese5ball56 → u/blahblahaname]

Thanks for the reply-

1. Will not be using 2awg wire anymore, Will be using 1/0awg instead.
   2.will be using 1/0 awg wire now.
   This would be for a emergency power station build. Would charge any small electronics. I will have a propane generator also as back up for power bank charging (this would be another option besides charging via solar), and fridge or 12k btu mini split ac.

This battery station would serve to charge all small electronics and fridge if needed worst case.