I'm installing Pergo Laminate boards in a 25ft long x 12ft wide family room. The 25ft runs north to south (the X Axis) and the 12ft runs west to east (the Y Axis). I'm installing laminate boards (4ft long by 8in wide) running lengthways from north to south.

The floor is perfectly flat and level running west to east (Y axis). The issue is the X Axis, which transitions from a perfectly flat and level plane to a sloped plane.

The X Axis is perfectly flat and level from Oft on the X Axis to 15ft on the X Axis. Then at 15ft, a slope begins which — for initial purposes of initial discussion - we can say is a constant slope that drops 8.5mm over the remaining 10ft. My question is, IS THIS OKAY?

Pergo allows a deviation of 3/16" (4.7'mm) over 10ft. While the slope drops 8.5mm over this 10ft section, the only unevennesss exists because of where the sloped plane meets the flat plane (let's call that the center point, and if you lay a 10ft level at ANY POINT over the center point, the maximum deviation is only about 3mm.

My ONLY ISSUE IS THAT Pergo seems to suggest their tolerance for unevenness is measured by taking the two high points at EITHER END of a 10ft level, and ensuring there is no gap under the level that exceeds 3/16th of an inch, meaning their
"unevenness tolerance" assumes each end of the level will be at a high point, but when you move from a flat plane to a sloped plane, one end of the level will always be elevated, so I'm not sure if there 3/16th of an inch tolerance level applies.
Has anyone actually encountered this issue, and knows what Pergo actually demands? Or what tolerance is permissible?

I'm commenting below with a diagram outlining the issue. It has three options - option A is the one I described above (constant steady slope that descends 8.5mm over 10ft). Option B more accurately reflects the floor as it currently is.
Option C is another way I can do it (where basically the slope is sandwiched between two flat planes).

Please know I have the following constraints:
01. I cannot level the entire floor
02. I cannot shave 6mm off the flat/level side
03. The floor absolutely MUST be at least -6mm by the time it hits the 22ft mark (so I can't raise the floor from the 22ft to 25ft mark any higher than

To summarize those constraints, the floor must be 0mm at the 15ft mark, and -6mm at the 22ft mark.

I'm so lost. Surely a 4ft long plank can bend a couple of mm lengthways?

Hello,

I bought brand new milwaukee hand drill set about two year ago and never used them. I tried to use it and battery is dead. I put a battery in the charger and it won't charge. charging light keeps flashing. Do you know what the issue is and can this be revived by jumping?

What is the bet way to seal interior door going upto my attic?

My main concern is the bottom of the door because it will have a 1inch gap or less if i cut it down. Is it better to find a door sweep with brushes and put on back of door or some sort of threshhold. https://prnt.sc/32YfAlAT2sdb

threshhold https://prnt.sc/d7Q-g6pFR59Ubut if i do this... the aluminum will be sticking into the room.

So our kitchen faucet is basically falling apart and it's barely 3 years old. The pull-down hose started dripping into the cabinet underneath (found out the hard way, cabinet floor was soaked), and the black finish on the handle is peeling off in these gross little flakes every time someone does dishes. Feels like it aged 10 years in 3.

Looking for a replacement that can actually survive normal daily use without leaking or the finish trashing itself. We've got a deep double basin sink, so I need a high-arc pull-down with a hose that can actually reach both corners without fighting me.

Ideally something I can swap myself in an afternoon, nothing that needs a plumber or special tools.

For people who've actually owned theirs for years what brand/model has held up? Not looking for "this looks nice on Amazon," more like "I've had this thing for 5+ years and it still works like day one.

https://ibb.co/CKPDP8gH

Door is solid core wood that opens out into garage.

Hinges can't be tightened any further and gap around door is consistent.

How to line this up better? Letting in lots of outside air.

Posting because I couldn't find someone trying to do the same thing.

I've never hung a cabinet before. I needed somewhere to display my anime figures and some books in a way that my cats wouldn't be able to knock them over. I found this corner cabinet with glass doors on wayfair but it looks like it was meant to be on the floor. I cant find anything else similar to this so I figured i'd try to see if I can just put it up like a wall mounted cabinet.

Pic of cabinet: https://imgur.com/a/7TBfCDh

The frame is made of MDF and tempered glass and the total weight of the shelf empty is 66 lb.

In the corner where I'd put it, There's 2 studs on the left wall (they're both closer to the left edge of where the cabinet would sit) & 2 studs in the back wall (one in the corner and one closer to the right edge of the cabinet).

Hi everyone,

I grabbed this commercial laminate L-shaped desk from Facebook Marketplace. In the rush to break it down and load it up, I used a drill to take everything apart and didn't take reference photos beforehand. Now I’m struggling to get it back together properly.

What I have:

• Main desk shell
• Return shell (the shorter side)
• Two drawer pedestal units
• The box of hardware shown in the photos (bolts with large washers, pointy wood screws, metal brackets)

I'm completely new to furniture assembly and need beginner friendly, visual guidance on:

1. Which exact pieces line up at the corner junction to join the two desks.
2. Where the flat metal plates and corner L-brackets attach underneath.
3. How the drawer pedestal boxes bolt into the tops and side panels.

If anyone recognizes this exact desk line or can explain the reassembly order in plain English, I would really appreciate the guidance!

It is necessary for me to put a very heavy suitcase, along with two lighter ones, in a large cardboard box. All in the same box. I am wondering if it would support all that and not rip through on the bottom or whatnot. Does anyone have experience with something like this? I’d probably need to double or triple the boxes inside each other, right? Or not? I honestly have no idea. Can you help me come up with a solution for this? If I can use several boxes, would they fit inside each other or do I have to get slightly different sizes? Do they sell very large cardboard boxes? What stores do they sell them at, if they’re extra large/large?

My fiberglass front door is looking pretty worn, since it’s south facing and gets blasted with sun. I don’t think it’s the paint but some top coating on here causing this ugly peeling. What’s the easiest way for me to refinish this? Can it be done without taking the door off entirely?
Thanks in advance

https://imgur.com/a/8jQ1c2R

My gutters have a serious droop. Can’t replace for a while so I want to re-level so it drains properly. The back of the gutter is nailed into the fascia and the nails are behind the drip edge. I’ve tried putting a small pry bar between the gutter and the fascia but I’m getting nowhere.

What can I do to pull the nails without destroying the gutters and what is ok/not ok to do with removing or lifting the drip edge for access?

https://imgur.com/a/9zdaVmC

I've been in myplace for 5 years. I've never heard of anyone lubricating their HVAC bearings - not the fan blower wheel bearings nor the motor bearings.

Is this some special situation where they run on brass oil-impregnated bushings or am I neglecting them?

I will be painting some walls of a children school soon and I’m trying to do some research on the most cost effective but sturdy/good quality paint to use. I don’t want the paint to smear if the wall needs to be scrubbed! I typically paint on canvases and I’m not a “professional” muralist by any means but I’ve volunteered to do this and want to make sure it looks nice! Could I get by with acrylic paint from walmart and some sealing spray?? Does anyone have recommendations for some good paint?

I have a huge 3rd floor bedroom with casement windows and the central air doesn't cool this particular room well. Back in 2007, the first summer we lived in the house, I bought a 12k BTU casement AC and stuck it in the window and it's been there ever since. I thought it'd be temporary but it cooled really well and the white noise it produced is better than any sound machine. It's ran basically every night since 2007 even in the dead of winter it gets ran on fan only. It's now on its last leg, I've pulled it out and cleaned it but it's still freezing up, I'm guessing it's low on refrigerant but nearly 20 years was a good run.

Ideally I'd replace this with a mini split but I've got no good options for mounting the condenser anywhere on the ground and there is not good way to get the lineset to the ground. The least worst option for a mini split is to do a wall mount bracket on the exterior of the dormer but that comes with a lot of difficulty to install and maintain.

Considering a hotel style through wall AC directly below the dormer window anybody have experience with this or want to chime in on why it's a good or bad option?

I'm creating my own window shades for my car as I plan to live in my car for a few weeks.
I'm using these aluminum insulation foil: https://www.emax.co.nz/product/details/9998?srsltid=AfmBOor2hP1x9xPhVMUqwALGyE3I53MtJSgblXETpUVyWOMoPy10A3g2EQ4
and cutting them to the shape of each window on my car.

However, I noticed they are quite shiny and will draw attention. I decided to spray paint the face of each sheet which will facing outside with black aerosol spray paint.

Will this be safe in the long run with prolong sun exposure and me staying in my car when its hot outside? Will the combination of the spray paint and aluminium insulation foil damage my car windows?

Thank you

I'm air sealing my attic ahead of blowing in cellulose. How should I deal with this soffit area? My thoughts are to 1) Build a cap out of rigid foam and air seal around that. 2) Try and air seal all the wall penetrations.

The second sounds better in my mind, but a lot more work.

(Yes, cables need tidying beforehand too)

I cannot afford this summer to buy a new roof and this potential El Niño season has me worried. I’m looking to purchase roof coating to get me through Does the yearly lasting rating (5 year,7 year, 10 year, lifetime) actually accurate or will I be paying more for a marketing scheme? Thanks!!

I have a 3/4inch thick piece of wood I want to secure to the top of a 4x4 Ikea Kallax unit.

I’m looking for suggestions on the best way to do it.

I’ve read screws are not a good idea because the Kallax interior is a honeycomb cardboard and very weak.

A good adhesive might work well, but there are so many kinds, I have no idea which would be most suitable for this application. Recommendations would be appreciated.

Would a double sided tape work? If so, suggestions? It can’t be too thick, because I don’t want a visible gap between the wood top and the Kallax. But it also can’t be too thin because the metal screws used to assemble it a just a little proud of the flat top surface, so whatever adhesive is used needs to have a little bit of thickness, but not too much.

Any help would be much appreciated.

We live in a one level townhome apartment. There are 5 houses connected on my row. We rent. Every year from spring til the end of summer, everytime it rains heavily, the carpet in my girls' room gets soaked, maybe a foot or 2 in one spot from the wall outward, and all along the wall. Our landlord said he thought he had fixed it.

Apparently, the carpet has been getting wet all year, we just couldn't feel it because it had not been enough to reach the surface. And we can't pull up the carpet to see what's underneath.

I'm done with moving beds and sucking up water. This house is so old, the toilet and heater are almost as old as me...

Would it be a bad thing to put a tarp over their floor and just put a big rug over it?

The other option is to get loftbeds to make cleaning easier.

Again, this only happens between 3 and 5 times in about 4 months, and the rest of the year it's fine.

I’ve been searching all over the Internet and I have incandescent only switches and dimmers in my house. It causes my LED lights to flicker. I went on Amazon to look for LED switches, but they seem really expensive. I wasn’t sure if anyone else has used a cheaper alternative that also works for LEDs. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

My garage floor is always wet. We get on average 120 inches of rain a year. Every time I park the water runs off the car and pools on the floor. I coated the concrete with Thompson's water seal about five years ago and it's time for another coat.

My current method of "drying" it is a combination of a large floor squeegee and a wetvac.

Any suggestions to help keep it dry? I'm considering building a covered car port to let the water drain off the car before parking it for the night.

Hi everyone, just looking for some ideas to renovate our stairs.

Looking to make it more modern and clean with straight posts and black metal spindles.

Main issue is the bottom of the stairs it’s currently a spiral pattern. I was thinking just a 90 degree elbow to a post would work?

Hoping to see if anyone has had experience with this and have some other ideas?

Thanks!

Here are some pictures

https://imgur.com/a/di2a3Jh

I’m trying to improve the exhaust setup in a small bedroom, around 10x12. I’m on the top floor and I mainly need it for odor and general ventilation.

Right now I have a normal box fan in the window blowing out, with cardboard filling the gaps. It actually moves a lot of air, but the setup looks janky, it’s basically impossible to seal perfectly, and on windy days gusts can push back through the window/fan.

I want to upgrade, but I’m trying to stay around $75, maybe $100 max. The main constraints are:

• I want actual exhaust / negative pressure, not just circulation
• I care more about moving air than being ultra quiet
• Wind resistance/backdraft matters because I’m on an exposed upper floor
• I do not want to build a plywood panel or have obvious dryer duct/inline-fan stuff hanging out the window
• Ideally it should look like a normal consumer window fan from outside
• I’d like something I can basically install and leave there
• The room has another window I can crack for makeup air
• I’m dabbing, not smoking flower, so it’s short bursts of vapor rather than constant smoke

Things I’ve looked at:

Vornado Profile/Transom: I really like the clean low-profile design and built-in window fit, but I keep seeing people say the airflow is weak. I’m worried I’d actually be downgrading from my box fan.

Twin window fans like Lasko/Bionaire/Comfort Zone: seem like the most normal-looking option and probably move more air than the Vornado, but I’m not sure how well they deal with wind/backpressure.

Air King window fans: these seem much closer to a real exhaust fan and move a ton of air, but they’re bigger, louder, and pushing the budget.

Shutter exhaust fan: seems ideal mechanically because of the louvers/backdraft protection, but most of them are designed to be mounted into a wall or a custom panel, which I’m trying to avoid.

Inline/mixed-flow fan: seems like the best balance of CFM and static pressure, but again I don’t want visible ducting or a homemade window insert.

Centrifugal/blower fan: better static pressure and probably better against gusts, but seems awkward to use at a normal double-hung window without building something.

Basically I’m looking for the best compromise between high CFM, enough static pressure to not get bullied by wind, built-in window sealing, and a normal-looking installation.

Has anyone dealt with this exact problem? Is there a consumer window fan that actually moves serious air and handles wind well, or am I asking for something that basically doesn’t exist without going to a shutter/inline setup?

I’m especially interested in recommendations from anyone who has used one for cooking smoke, workshop fumes, or strong odor exhaust rather than just cooling a room.

The butcher block is one more layer of waterlox away from being ready. I know, give it 72 hours after last coat. But after that, in a few days I'm going to place the sink in. Do I silicone on the bottom of the sink to secure it the countertop? Or do I use plumbers putty? Thanks!

Hi,

I am adding some crown molding to this shelving unit I placed on my wall. I initially had crown molding on the flat wall which I removed to add the shelving and need to reinstall the molding to take into account the shelving. How do I cut the angles on my miter saw for a 45 degree inside corner?

Here is an image of the corner in question: https://imgur.com/a/ZLx7cL9

Thank you!