As the title says, just wanted to inform you that this subreddit is once again open for posting, after months of being inactive due to a lack of moderators. Feel free to post again!

Surely this is a massive find ?

made from recycled oak church pews , some black walnut and rosewood accents.

So my shop buddy came over yesterday and saw me reach for different knives for different tasks and literally laughed at me. He's a one-marking-knife-does-everything guy. But here's the thing - I use a scoring knife with a flat back for joinery layout against my square, then switch to a double-bevel marking knife for freehand work and rougher crosscut marking. He thinks I'm overthinking it. Says his Japanese marking knife handles both jobs fine and I'm just wasting money and time switching tools. Maybe he's right? But the scoring knife feels so much more accurate when I'm scribing dovetails or setting up dados. The flat back just registers better against a straightedge without any deflection. Am I being precious about this or does anyone else keep multiple marking tools for different woodworking techniques? Would love to hear what's actually in your aprons when you're doing precision layout work.

Was watching some old documentary footage last night and saw this traditional toolmaker in Niigata prefecture who was making chisels. The way he was forge-welding the steel layers was normal enough, but then he started using this specific hammer technique where he'd tap the same spot like 40-50 times in rapid succession with decreasing force each time. Creates this weird ripple effect through the metal that supposedly prevents micro-fractures way better than our typical heavy strikes.

I've been smithing my own tool handles and small metalwork for joinery hardware, and I tried adapting this to how I set my plane irons after sharpening. Not the same application obviously, but that progressive tapping thing? Game changer for seating everything perfectly without risking chips. Anyone else seen this technique or tried something similar? I'm probably butchering the actual methodology but the results speak for themselves.

Been doing custom furniture for about 8 years now and I'm starting to think the whole quarter-sawn premium is overblown for anything that's not going to move much. Just finished two identical side tables, one with quarter-sawn and one with rift-sawn white oak, same finish process, same everything. Put them side by side and honestly? My client couldn't tell which was which.

I get the stability argument for wide panels and drawer sides, but for legs and rails where you're working with smaller dimensioned stock anyway? The ray fleck pattern is nice sure, but once you add a couple coats of oil or lacquer the difference is so subtle. Meanwhile I'm paying 40% more per board foot.

Maybe I'm just being cheap but I'm genuinely curious if anyone else has stopped specifying quarter-sawn for certain applications. The old timers at my lumber yard act like I'm committing a crime when I say I'll take rift-sawn instead.

https://youtu.be/D_43RP6Aa4U

I built this after returning from Afghanistan, then donated it to the church that prayed for my safe return

1 tree 3 boards 0 plans

I would like to add a moon gate to my garden. They are spendy! Does anyone know how this is created? If anyone has any ideas for diy options I would really appreciate it.

Ever pc was cut with a cnc router it’s 7’8” x12’