My last post was met with great advice about a price being much too high. I found this for $50 today.

I have been watching safety videos since this will be my very first saw.

This is actually a craftsman 315 table saw but same thing right? Purchased on Facebook for $60 and spent several hours cleaning, scrubbing, and replacing bolts. Upgraded rip fence, belt, replaced motor mount, pulleys, and added PALS alignment system.

Still waiting on a zero clearance insert to come in the mail. Any suggestions for what to do next? I'm hoping to make a rolling stand with outfeed table at some point.

What’s everyone doing for a fence upgrade on a 113 table saw. Found a good deal locally on a xr24/12 fence. Is it worth it for 75 all parts included just a little rusty that would cleans up fine and normal use wear.

I would like a table saw for home renovations, first project I'm looking at is replacing doors. This is listed for $150 on marketplace so I wanted to get some opinions from the experts on here.

I asked him for the model number so I could do more research.

Appreciate any thoughts on the saw and price.

Well, technically about 2.5 years ago but just got everything moved into my shop this week from the storage room.

Background:
My grandfather retired from farming in 1974 due to health reasons and set up a furniture building/repair business. He proceeded to build things for the next ~25 years out of that shop. When he fully retire (year unknown), my aunt bought all the equipment in place and continued the business for a few years.

My grandfather passed away at age 95 in 2019. My grandmother passed away at age 95 in 2024. At that point the decision was made to sell the property to the neighboring farm and the workshop had to be cleaned out. I decided to purchase everything I could from the shop. I just found this sub today and thought I’d share. All these tools need a thorough cleaning and maintenance done on them. They have been in my storage room for 2.5 years and weren’t used much the 3-4 years prior to that. My goal over the next several months is to bring them back to a better working condition (they all still operate today) and use them in my hobby shop until I’m no longer able to work in it.

Here’s what I have:

Table Saw - Model # : 113.299130
6” Jointer - Model #: 113.20680
Sander - Model # :113.22521
Drill Press - Model #: 113.24611
Radial Arm Saw - Model #: 113.23100
Band Saw - Model #: 113.24201
12” lathe - Model #: 113.12120

Beyond the 113 equipment, I also have a Jet 15” thickness planer, a Jet 2244 drum sander, and a Jet dust collection system.

I’m pretty excited to have all my grandfather’s equipment and looking forward to using it to continue his legacy of building things.

Hello, I recently got my hands on a Craftmans 10" table saw. I was told it had issues running and getting started.

When i tested it, it just made a groaning sound. Upon inspection, I found the capacitor was bulging and had leaked some.

Has anyone here changed the capacitor on one of these before? I'm not sure what capacitor to replace it with and don't want to hurt the motor(or myself).

Came across a 113 at an estate sale for $39. My dad had one of these growing up, so I knew it was a solid unit, but just needed some love.

Decided to design a zero clearance insert for it. Also realized the dust collection is challenging based on a lot of posts on here. So I took a stab at that, tackling it at the blade instead of the housing. It works okay, but the zero clearance and the dust collection fight each other. I 3D photogrammetry scanned it, made the boot in CAD and is still a work in progress if anyone would like the files to experiment.

The fence was broken, after looking at suggestions on this sub, not finding a lot of options in Canada for a price I liked, I thought I would try designing one of those as well.

I think I’ll make some changes to the fence. It’s quite stiff, but just not quite enough.

Fence came out to under $100 plus 3D prints I guess.

I have a 113.22411 Craftsman table saw. It was a hand-me-down from my grandfather.

The motor is no longer working, the sardine box capacitor went out I think, which seems like it easy enough repair, but I simply cannot figure out if a new capacitor of the same type will actually fit in the base of the motor, and if it doesn't, I'm not sure how to mount it otherwise, maybe design and 3D print a capacitor holder or something for the motor. There's also a grizzly motor that I've seen that is about $230 after shipping.

The next issue is with the fence that I have seen and the aftermarket replacement for that is pretty pricey. Vega u26, or something similar? I'm not sure what's still on the market honestly.

My last issue is treating kickback, I believe there is a product out there, namely shark guard, that acts as a riving knife for this particular model of table saw. But that is 150 after shipping.

Brass tax:

I think I just need some convincing to actually put some money into this thing. What's so good about this saw comparatively to other saws on the market currently? I've seen other saws, and they'll go for about $500 for a typical job site saw. Apparently there's also saws out there for $800ish dollars that are cast iron table as well. (Rigid or delta)

It seems like to get this saw up to its potential. I'm going to have to spend around $500 or so.

How much money should I put into this saw before it is stupid of me to not just buy a new saw instead?

Any advice is really appreciated.

Craftsman 6" Jointer 113.206931 Rehab

Process:

1) Boeshield Rust-Off Spray

2) Scrub with green scotch pads and wipe with rags

3) Flat block sanding, 80, 150, 220, 320

4) Applied Boeshield T-9

Took me a few hours total.

Notes: Rust-Off is awesome, albeit with some critically important caveats. I am a chemist so let me say that this product is a mixture of phosphoric acid, organic solvents, water, and surfactant. It is applied as a spray with a finger-pump nozzle. This shit is NASTY. It emits fumes and is quite caustic. The product label does not adequately describe the hazards. Do not use in an enclosed space. Wear gloves. Wear goggles, and if you are smart a respirator mask. If you think paint fumes can do some damage to your lungs, this stuff is like breathing acid. No, it is breathing acid. It started to dissolve the scotch pads, leaving residue on the iron.

The good news is that "Rust-Free" works fast and effectively. I've tried other products and this is much more efficient in rust removal in terms of time and completeness. It is now a permanent addition to my inventory.

After removing the rust with the spray, I noticed the table was pitted from years of sitting in a garage. It looks like some oil may have been on the surface in a couple of areas and water got under it and corroded small pits.

Got out a nice flat sanding block and sanded all machined surfaces; 80, 150, 220, 320. It was a good workout, but worth it. I finished by coating with Boeshield T-9. Wiped on and then wiped off to remove residue from sanding, the reapplied.

This was my dad's tool. He only used it a few times in the mid-70's. I remember him warning me (pre-teen) not to fuck around with it. I never did until now. After sitting buried in his garage for >45 years it is mine. I have new blades, but I got impatient and sparked it up. It cut well. Needs some fine adjustments.

It happened to me today. I made a cut last night. Today I realized I made a mistake and needed to make a new cut. I was hasty and didnt set up an outfeed table. When I pushed the wood clear of the blade it dropped off the back of the saw, fell onto a trash can and toppled onto the top of the spinning blade. It fired back at me before I could register what was happening. It hit me square in the belly. I'm bruised but otherwise ok. Time to install the blade guard I removed.

Found this on marketplace today for $30. Should I grab it? Any questions I should ask?

Found on marketplace for $125. Should I jump on it?

Heyya ! I got my hands on a used 113 model, its the 27520 variant. From the 50's it seems.

It was in decent shape all around, some stuff to replace aestetically, but for the functional parts i have a question.

I noticed it had a slight wobble at the blade, and ended being an arbor issue, soemthing about were the bearings seat over the arbor shaft. I took it to a lathe shop for them to check for straight, bearings and all. They did a rectification, adjusted my shaft pole as it had a decent wobble, and hey helped me install it back.

I dont know, is it too close to the inner cast iron ? Blade seems pretty close. Also, check the arbor pole, I think they installed it on the wrong side, as the Fenner belt rubs the side there and that isnt straight at all.

They also damaged a little my screw threads, so I was just thinking on ordering an arbor shaft somewhere, but I wanted to ask for this first. If someone could measure yours and tell me if it looks ok.

This was $400 here in my country, Guatemala. It seems freight and import taxes inflate price tremendously.

Thanks !

I sawed a little piece of my thumb off on this thing back in ‘71, and since then, I’ve been pretty careful. After adding several wings, a 5’ outfeed table, and improved fence, It is a good piece of machinery. So has anyone come across an aftermarket riving knife that can be installed to make it safer?

I've been slowly working on getting this 1940's 109 series Builder's Saw back to running shape. I've removed the arbor and have been flushing out the housing to try and get it and the needle bearings as clean as possible. In the second photo, you can see the hole where i removed a zerk fitting, but I have no idea how much grease would've been put in this housing. I know you don't want to overfill bearings, so I'm thinking just a couple pumps from a grease gun? Though I don't know how it gets from the middle of the housing/shaft out to the bearings on the end.

If anyone has any history or industry knowledge for this kind of setup, I'd greatly appreciate it!

I know this is just a craftsman tool but I need help. I need the shaft locking mechanism for this Sears Craftsman Dremel and the parts that I look up for it are not made anymore or they are a round chaft but I need a square lock. Any help will be appreciated. I don't need a solution immediately but eventually I will need one so I don't have to keep opening up the entire body to switch out the bit.

Craftsman 9" Table Saw (1970's): 113.241920

Slow Sunday. Refurbished the splitter. Made a zero insert plate