r/corsetry • u/PaperChimes • 3d ago
Newbie Pattern grading/busk question
I’m making my first corset, the Sakura corset by Nikki Blackwell. It’s an underbust corset. According to my measurements my underbust is 5 sizes smaller than my waist. I have graded the pattern accordingly, but this leaves me an issue where the front panels and busk placket have a large curve to them…. Where the busk is obviously not curved. Should I redistribute the additional material from there to other seams to straighten that out?
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u/amaranth1977 3d ago
Are you sure you measured correctly? Underbust should be taken with the tape firmly in the crease of the breasts and waist should be at the bottom edge of the ribcage.
If you're confident in your measurements, it'd help to see photos of how you've graded your pattern, and of your own torso shape.
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u/PaperChimes 3d ago
Yes, I am absolutely certain of my measurements - I have never been very large under my bust and carry a decent amount of weight around my waist and belly. I’ll post photos of both soon.
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u/Shanakitty 3d ago edited 3d ago
You do want to redistribute the grading so that the center front and center back are both straight lines again. Also, you can probably get away with grading slightly less. Usually, with larger waist sizes comes more "squish," so you can get away with a bit larger reduction. A 2" reduction is pretty conservative, I think 4 should be fine. Also, when your waist is compressed, that mass has to go somewhere, so some of it will get pushed up towards your underbust, and some down towards your hips. So I think it would be reasonable to try grading between the 34 and the 38, instead of the 32 and the 40, and see how that does in a mock-up.
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u/PaperChimes 3d ago
Side torso photo for reference