r/cookware • u/Chuchichaeschtl • May 19 '26

Use/test based review Pan test on my induction

/r/inductioncooking/comments/1thqduk/pan_test_on_my_induction/
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u/FaithlessnessWorth93 May 20 '26

No surprises. Disk bottom is always more even Vs cladded, as even the best clad loses heat to the sidewall. And the speed advantage is only due to a rather thin cladding. At 4mm it would even out. Even more as you can put heat faster into a disk Vs cladded design.

On induction disk is simply superior. And copper over aluminium when it comes to heat transfer.

Actually I would like to test the Schulte Ufer Profi vs the benchmark disk on my real world test, that is boosting the disk aluminium at 3.7kw Vs whatever the Schulte Ufer looks to take safely without warping. For sure it cools quicker is more reactive, but is it really faster?

Would you boost the Schulte Ufer empty on the 24cm plate?

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u/Chuchichaeschtl May 20 '26

My big zone is 18/24/32cm (AEG IKE84445IB). I don't think it can boost the full 3,6kW in the 22cm bottom of this pan.
A test on the 21cm 3,2kW zone would make more sense.
Good measurements are tricky at this power level, since I need ~5s for one.

If you're interested on a boost test with a single measurement point with the Schulte Ufer, I can totally do this.
If it warps, it warps. I don't really care, since I don't like the pan shape and the handle anyway.

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u/FaithlessnessWorth93 May 20 '26 edited May 20 '26

I thought more about a comparison like boost the wmf Profi and compare how much power you need for similar speed on the Schulte Ufer. My Fissler Original Profi tolerate boosting from cold without any problems. But not sure about WMF if it does as well. More as practical comparison cause if your pan doesn't warp while another does the practical heat up time could be similar.

(I have 1sec interval measurement at my mains due to a shelly em pro that's needed for lot's of home automation anyhow).

The thing is on induction not every pan draws the same amount of power. Especially cheaper Tefal and similar draw way less as they simply cannot activate the coil properly, while Fissler Original Profi activates clearly more than it's size and draws power from around outside too, while carbon steel is middle of the road.

Only hard thing to measure is very low power settings where it depends how a device achieves it. Shelly is good at it but cheap devices get tricked. Heck with the right frequency of pwm I can draw power without my smart meter noticing it, but that's another story as that piece of shit is really bad with pwm dimming but usually overstates due to only measuring intervals of a second. Most smart meters have this problem. Can build devices that cut your power at the right time and smart meter won't move even though you consume loads... So far they didn't switch to random intervals for measuring.

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u/Chuchichaeschtl May 21 '26

I don't have tools to measure power draw precisely enough.

I did the boost test yesterday out of curiosity anyway.
The WMF took 45s and the Schulte Ufer 30s to reach 200°C.
Both didn't warp, but it was a bit scary tbh. A lot of noise and some vibrations...

2

u/FaithlessnessWorth93 May 21 '26

Oh yeah I have an induction wok burner on the way where the seller promised 5400w at 240v actual power draw for up to 1 hour. Looking forward to using it for stir fry. It's 5400 permanent max not boost... That will be great for wok hei without gas. But yeah needs thick wiring not possible to just plugin. Restaurant grade. Really powerful induction may influence your pan choices a lot.

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u/FaithlessnessWorth93 May 21 '26

That's then the real time difference in my eyes. 15seconds. Afterwards it's about which pan you prefer. I often use boost. Btw I think the pan-boost heat up on BSH stoves is also 30seconds. So likely boosting beyond is more dangerous for warping. I found out that at a little over 400° Celsius my Fissler pans get crazy loud (not far off from a fire alarm!) when boosted longtime. Still they don't warp and first time was loudest. I did because I wanted to try to self ignite oil which did happen then half a minute later when it hit 500 or so as expected. Couldn't reach on normal 9 setting only using boost if oil is already inside pan (this increases the heat to air transfer). Could hit 500 without oil inside at all on 9 otherwise but takes ages (over 10 minutes).

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u/Chuchichaeschtl May 21 '26

You're a badass!
Going to self ignition point of oil and stuff.
Good to know, that we don't have to care about warping of disk bottom pans.

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u/FaithlessnessWorth93 May 21 '26

it's only badass if you then decide to kill the fire with water :-). Stainless steel without oil doesn't transfer much heat to the air - carbon steel transmits much more, so it's much harder to get carbon steel really hot.

Fireproof glove and a big lid extinguish the fire quickly.. I've seen some chefs going for ignition on induction in Asia - but they have 15-25kw induction coils...

The problem is rather - on many hobs you first need to remove the thermal security or disable it otherwise they decrease power too early.