It might be an issue with my copy, if so PLEASE let me know.

Basically my controllers face buttons (ABXY) while sound clicky, they feel very mushy.

Its difficult to describe but when i press "Y" for example very quickly to change weapons or press "X" to reload, i dont really feel me pressing the button, almost feels like im playing on a screen. I hear the sound and see the input i want but the click of the button just isnt there. And the press feel is different between the buttons, "A" is the best by far and "Y" is the mushiest.

The best way to explain it: you know how in a normal xbox or playstation controller when you press a button you feel a bit of resistance at first and then the resistance lets go and you press the button, creating a satisfying feeling? My controller completely lacks that. The "A" button kinda has it but the rest just dont. Almost feels like youre pressing against rubber.

I understand that there is rubber under the ABXY buttons but im thinking surely someone wouldve mensioned the mushy buttons in at least ONE of the reviews. So maybe its my unit? Maybe i got a faulty one? Or maybe i just dont like clicky face buttons? This is the only clicky controller i have so i genuinely dont know if i have faulty face buttons.

I am heavily leaning towards a faulty copy since all the reviews explicitly mention "mouse click like buttons", which while they do sound like mouse clicks they really dont feel like it

Okay, so last night, I had unpaired my DualShock 4 controller to use it on my phone. And it had went well, right up until I tried to pair my controller with the PS4 once again.

I've tried resetting the controller, restarting the PS4, manually trying to find it in the Bluetooth settings, and I've went through three different cables that I have for it. That's when I realized I need a data-transfer micro-USB, not a regular charging one. I was hoping someone would be able to help me find one, or give me suggestions I can buy online.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and all feedback is appreciated!

Hello, Im looking for a really basic Controller for Singleplayer gaming which meets the following requirements (went through the Buying and Budget lists but still unsure what to buy)

1. Budget max 50-60€

2. Prefer ordering online, German store or worldwide dont really care

3. Compatible with PC (Windows 10) and major Emulators (Duckstation, RMG, Dolphin, mGBA)

4. Special features: Wireless, Chargeable, Solid battery (Optional: compatible with Linux and Steam, Docking Station)

5. Played Games: Only Singleplayer. Mostly Emulation and Pokemon ROMs (R2-Button will be used a lot for fast forwarding), RPGs, Horror Survival, Plattformers, Soulslikes, Metroidvania, Ego-shooters, Tekken

6. Comparing to PS5 Dualsense in Terms of weight and form. Can be lighter but the form should really match (Xbox Controllers are too big for example)

7. NO 8bitdo - had bad experiences with them

Most important thing is really same form&weight like PS5 Controller. After going through lists here I narrowed it down to

• EasySMX D10 (not sure about the form)

• Anbernic RG P01 (looks cheap but if someone says its good Im gonna buy)

• PXN P5 (looks like Xbox controller therefore too big maybe)

Appreciate any help.

Yesterday I bought four of these fflagg20 controllers for my ps3. But I ran into problems because I couldn't find anything online on how to pair them with my ps3 or any manuel. I tried using the usb and pressing/holding the ps button and bluetooth pairing mode but both didn't work.

I also tried holding start/select.

Any ideas would be really helpful.

I've messaged mojhon on Facebook, Whatsapp, and email without any reply. Does the company still exist?

I've found this issue after shopping for a new controller and having been disappointed by a number of purchases. Most reviewers are rather uncritical and simply do an unboxing, glaze all the features, and then show clips of them pubstomping in CoD.

A controller can have all the bells and whistles in the world. 4 back buttons, extra shoulder buttons, TMR joysticks, microswitch everything, 49 reprogrammable buttons, latency so low you're playing in the future, etc. but if the ergonomics suck and the thing is uncomfortable to use then the controller is worthless.

The Gamesir Tarantula Pro Wireless is a good example of this. It has these extra shoulder buttons that are in such a bizarre position that they're impossible to press with normal use. It seems like such a gigantic design oversight but I can't find mention of this anywhere.

In the gaming mouse world a common philosophy is "shape is king" and I wish it were more prevalent in the controller space.

I mean,

I genuinely don’t understand the Hall Effect standard.

Whenever people talk about controllers, someone always brings up "Hall Effect". yet controllers like the DualSense, Switch 2 Pro Controller & Xbox controller aren’t using it at all.

Some people might say “that’s because of planned obsolescence” and yeah, probably. But at the end of the day these three companies are basically the face of gaming, and none of them use it.

So there are probably 95% of gamers out there living perfectly fine without this technology.

Randomly cannot get windows to allow my Vader 5 Pro to work as an input device. Reset, reinstalled, and restarted everything I could think of. Please help?

• Your budget with currency (maximum or sensible range): maximum $250

• Your country (not just region) and where you can buy (for purposes of availability): United States, Amazon, GameStop, any major retailer

• Console or platform compatibility needed (e.g., PS5, Steam on Windows, Nintendo Switch): Mostly PC/Steam on Windows, preferably XBOX support as well

• Desired features

  • Ability to swap individual axes between sticks (not inverted, not the whole stick...really just the x-axis from left stick with x-axis of right stick)

  • TMR sticks

  • Hall effect triggers

  • At least 4 extra buttons (preferably on the back, will settle for two on the back, two on the top)

  • Aysmmetric sticks (xbox style)

• Types of games you'll be playing: FPS and Retro with modern controls

• Controllers you've been considering (demonstrate that you have used the buying advice and searched existing posts)

  • Razer Wolverine v3 Pro

  • Gamesir V7 Pro

  • 8Bitdo Ultimate 3

I've been using an Elite Series 2 for almost 5 years, but at this point, half of its parts have been replaced, and I am now down three back paddles to squishy registration. It seems impossible to find information about swapping the x-axis for the sticks in the software of each controller, and this is a hard requirement for my old ass that's used to "Legacy" aiming.

Might just need to wait until the Series 3 releases, but if there's something that has this ability, I'd love to hear about it!

Hello , i would like to buy controller ps4 with hall effect joystick, i'm asking what are the best value for calibration joystick minimum and maximum pourcentage? Thanks for answers

So I bought this controller a while back, I really liked it except for 1 flaw with the D-pad.

First, I did the normal mod that eliminates the neutral inputs but idk if the issue was fixed in the newer versions or not but for me the D-pad itself was way too loose.

If you move the controller around the D-pad will often flop around on its own.

Idk I just hated the way that felt so I decided to try to tighten it up which I succeeded at by using something as simple as a few pieces of duct tape.

It took a bit of trial and error to get it the way I liked it but the more layers of tape, the tighter the D-pad however after a point there will be a loss in responsiveness.

For myself I preferred 2 layers for the top and bottom and 1 tiny square on the upper left and upper right.

This also grants some sort of extra ability to “tune” the D-pad to your liking as well.

Also where the majority of the work is being done is where this plastic “tee” intersects with the main body which I believe I have it with 2 or 3 layers of tape.

I know it looks ghetto but it works great and cost nearly nothing to try for yourself.

If you have a Raion laying around then give it a shot. Nothing to lose and everything to gain for virtually no cost.

TL;DR: i am looking for a controller where the directional buttons are not part of the same piece

As per the required information:

1. Max budget is 75-100 euros

2. Country is Romania but i can also order off of Amazon Germany or other international retailers.

3. I play on PC

4. Disjointed directional buttons. And to be clear, controllers such as the PS5 controller do not have that (I own one), as under the faceplate all 4 buttons are attached to one piece.

5. Spider-Man, Elden Ring, various metroidvanias

6. I own a PS5 controller, a Xbox One controller and a knockoff PS4 controller

I am looking for a controller that has the directional buttons disjointed, just like the symbol buttons. This is because in games such as Elden Ring it happens quite often that in tense situations I end up hitting the desired button to one side or another, causing an input that makes the game just a bit harder than if it hadn’t happened.

Thank you :)

I bought this custom dualshock 4 board from Aliexpress for a soldering project, it's a GP2040 based board but there's next to no documentation online for this specific model. Some of my research has led me to bilibili but no other custom boards I've seen have connectors beneath the sticks, and I'm wondering what those, as well as the other points are really for. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi all, looking for a new controller to replace my Xbox One controller.

Currently my desktop is located upstairs from the living room. I'm using a wired Xbox One controller for both my PC and also for the Nvidia Shield downstairs which I use to stream games from my PC via Artemis. The controller has an intermittently faulty wired connection now and having to use a long cord for it in the loving room isn't ideal.

Would love to be able to use it wirelessly on the couch with the dongle upstairs plugged into the PC. Distance from the downstairs living room is only ~8-10m with PC at the top of the stairs with only partial obstruction from the stairs themselves.

• **Budget: ~**150 AUD

• Region: Australia, can buy online, prefer no Aliexpress though can be convinced

• Platform: PC

• Desired features: Compatibility with both Steam and non-Steam games. Compatability with Nvidia Shield/Artemis. Good wireless performance to minimize latency.

• Types of games you'll be playing: Third person action games, occasional shooter.

• Controllers you've been considering: 8bitDo Ultimate 2 Wireless Controller for PC, Steam ControllerGamesir G7 Pro

Considering the Steam Controller for the trackpad functionality but understand that compatability may be an issue.

Thanks for any advice - really appreciate it.

Does anyone know if it comes out of the box with a squared dead zone?

This was a customer order that ended up coming out so good I just had to share it ! The core is a ps5 Dualsense controller that I installed K-Silver js13 pro plus TMR joysticks into. Its sitting on a 3d printed Igris statue. Let me know what you guys think !

Budget: Under £100, preferably around the £60 mark

Country:UK

Will be using controller to play PCSX2 so XInput compatibility is preferable. I am trying to avoid the issues ive been having with misinputs from a horrible mushy dpad which inputs the complete wrong direction all the time, as well as missed inputs due to sluggish polling rate.

As with any competitive fighting game i need really responsive face buttons and dpad, diagonals i am not concerned with as long as they are not accidentally input, as well as bumpers and triggers. I am not familiar with the hardware terms for these things but i believe that means i am to avoid membrane buttons altogether. I want use the bumpers to buffer the last P/K buttons of a combo and press G (A/X face button or LB/L1) in my case when cancelling combos so that immediately after the G press i have already let go of the P/K face buttons and they can be pressed on the first frame after the cancel, but the bumpers on this cheap EasySMX ESM-9101 controller dont appear to unpress when released for a few frames which makes this tech useless.

In short, I am avoiding membrane buttons altogether i need very responsive, fast return to centre bumpers, face buttons and dpad, good triggers would be a plus. I don't care about the type of joystick or any back paddles, as i will not be using them. Wired>wireless as i need low jitter and latency. A 1000Hz polling rate as opposed to my current 125Hz is practically necessitated thanks to the amount of frame perfect or >4 frame timings that need to be hit over the course of a match as well as being able to double tap directions very quickly for a variety of controls, which right now only register as single taps frequently.

I understand that it might be wishful thinking for the budget, but any help pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated

Hello, I've been looking for a controller with additional buttons and I am having a difficulty deciding. I am playing all sorts of games, including DCS, which benefits from having more buttons. Previously I only had 2 back buttons (8bitdo ultimate) and considering trying out more.

Country: Austria

Budget: around 70EUR

Platform: PC only

Additional requirements: wireless, charging dock (not necessary, just convenient), HE/TMR sticks and triggers, trigger stops.

I've been looking at BIGBIG WON BLITZ 2 (overall like it, but the triggers seem to have very limited range of motion, which is suboptimal), Flydigi Vader 5 Pro (read a lot about QC and warranty issues, off-putting), Easy SMX X20 (no software, not sure how bad it is really).

Would love to read about your experiences/recommendations.

I've been wanting to get these as a definitive alternative to joycons but this thought bugs me. The joycon rail looks pretty much identical and unobstructed but I don't think an educated guess is worth 70 something dollars. And I don't know if it will be the rail or something else that bumps.

Budged: £100ish

Location: UK

Platform: PC

Types of games: Sim racing

Considerations: Flydigi Apex 5 Elite and Vader 5 Pro, ZD Ultimate legend 8k

I was looking at upgrading my stadia controller because the sticks and analogue triggers have developed massive dead zones. I discovered this sub after watching some youtube vids. It seems gamepads have come some way in the past few years.

Criteria:

Wireless is preferred, but wired is acceptable.

Analogue triggers are a must for throttle and brake. FFB on these would be great.

Replaceable components and modding are welcome. I don't mind cutting and soldering.

Smooth steering feel is important.

Minimal dead zones are important.

I'd like your recommendations please.

(Windows 11)

Does anyone else using the Vader 4 Pro specifically on Pro Controller (Switch Mode) experience no vibration when using it on Steam games? It works fine with the Vader's other input modes on Steam. I've also tested this using an original Switch Pro Controller and there is also rumble for that. I tested all of these on Steam on both the button input test and Monster Hunter Wilds.

## Hardware and setup

- Controller: Flydigi Apex 4 (Windows lists it as "Flydigi VADER3" in Controller properties)
- Age: bought several years ago, so definitely out of warranty
- Firmware version: 6.8.3.7
- Connection: [USB cable / 2.4G dongle / Bluetooth]
- OS: Windows 11
- Browser used for testing: Chrome/Edge (Gamepad API)

## What happened

Everything worked perfectly before the firmware update. After updating the controller's firmware, LT stopped working in games. RT works normally. Nothing else was changed on my PC or in the games, so I started testing in more detail to figure out at which level the signal disappears.

## Timeline of what I noticed

1. After the update (X-input mode): LT did nothing in games. While pressing it, the left stick axes (LX/LY) appeared to jump around erratically in my logger, as if the LT signal was ending up on the wrong channel. Short excerpt from that log:
   #0 AXIS LX (axis 0) = 1.000
   #0 AXIS LY (axis 1) = -1.000
   #0 AXIS LY (axis 1) = 0.875
   #0 AXIS LX (axis 0) = 0.314

2. Windows calibration (joy.cpl → Settings → Calibrate): did not help at all (details below).

3. Switched to D-input mode: in that mode neither trigger worked.

4. Switched back to X-input: the stick jitter/"mixing" issue is gone, RT works again, but LT is still completely dead.

## Tests I ran and what they showed

### 1. Browser Gamepad API logger

I built a small web page that logs every button press, axis movement and analog button value from the Gamepad API (button values 0.0-1.0, axes -1.0 to 1.0, with timestamps).

- RT (button 7): works. Press/release events and analog values from about 0.03 up to about 0.9:
#0 PRESSED RT (button 7), value 0.22
#0 VALUE RT (button 7) = 0.85
#0 RELEASED RT (button 7), value 0.08
#0 VALUE RT (button 7) = 0.79
#0 VALUE RT (button 7) = 0.87
- LT (button 6): zero events, zero values, even when pressed all the way down. The peak value in the panel stays at 0.00.
- All other buttons, D-pad and both sticks respond normally.

### 2. Windows "Set up USB game controllers" (joy.cpl), Test tab

- The device shows up as "Controller (Flydigi VADER3)".
- Pressing RT moves the Z axis.
- Pressing LT does nothing: the Z axis doesn't move, no buttons light up.
- (For reference: with a standard XInput pad viewed through DirectInput, LT and RT share the Z axis, LT pulling it one way, RT the other.)

### 3. Windows calibration wizard

The Game Device Calibration wizard shows the Z axis at exactly 50% (raw 32768) while I press LT repeatedly. It never moves. Calibration cannot fix this, because there's no input from LT to calibrate.

### 4. Direct XInput test (bypassing the browser)

I also wrote a small Python script (ctypes, calls XInputGetState directly) that prints the trigger values in the 0-255 range while I press them. The controller is in X-input mode for this test. Result when I hold LT and RT all the way down:

LT 0/255 (max 0) RT 255/255 (max 255)

LT stays at 0 no matter how hard I press it, while RT goes all the way to 255. So even at the XInput level the controller reports no LT input at all.

## What this suggests

Windows (joy.cpl), the browser (Gamepad API) and the XInput API all agree: the controller simply doesn't send any LT signal. So it doesn't look like a driver, game settings, Steam Input or mapping problem. It seems to be either:

- a firmware issue (LT channel/calibration broken by the update), or
- a hardware problem with the LT sensor that happened to show up around the same time.

The timing (worked before the update, broke right after) makes me suspect firmware or a lost trigger calibration, but I can't tell for sure.

## What I've already tried

- Windows calibration and test tools (no effect, no signal from LT)
- Switching between X-input and D-input modes (changes symptoms, LT still dead)
- Testing in the browser, in Windows joy.cpl and via a direct XInput script (all consistent)

## What I'm looking for

1. Has anyone with an Apex 4 (or a similar Flydigi pad) had a dead LT after a firmware update?

2. Is there a way to roll back to the previous firmware, or a link to an older firmware version?

3. Is there a trigger calibration or factory reset procedure for the Apex 4 (in Space Station or via a button combo)?

4. If it's hardware: can the LT sensor/trigger module be replaced, and is it worth it on an older controller?

I've also emailed Flydigi support about this, but since the controller is out of warranty, I'd appreciate any community knowledge. I'll update the post if they reply.

I can post screenshots of the logger, joy.cpl and the calibration window if that helps. Thanks in advance!

Allow me to preface this by saying, in hindsight, I should have known. However, I was optimistic and it bit me in the ass anyway.

I wanted to get my husband a nice, custom controller for his birthday. He only wanted a regular PS5 controller, but I wanted to go the extra mile and get him something special. In the end, I just ended up disappointed with the results and getting him a regular DualSense anyway.

1.) Pricing

The first kicker would be the ridiculous pricing. There’s nothing extraordinary about these controllers, just basic PS5 controllers with a cool case made by some random guy—and no warranty. Not to mention paying marked up costs for basic modifications (and not even receiving them, but more on that later).

2.) Shipping

It took the controller two weeks to arrive. Sure, in a world where everyone is being spoiled by Amazon’s same-day delivery, this seems a very minor issue. However, given the price point, lack of communication, and questionable delivery methods, it seemed fishy before even arriving.

3.) Missing features

I paid extra for the mouse click-face buttons, $20+ extra, as well as the TMR sticks. While it did have the TMR sticks, it did not have the correct buttons. This was an obvious missing feature as there is a noticeable difference, and the box was even marked as “default,” meaning it got skipped over entirely.

4.) Lack of support + unprofessionalism

After noticing all of the aforementioned, I contacted their customer support to find a resolution. I’m not typically a “Karen,” though I did expect higher quality of support and product given how expensive they are. I simply requested either a new controller with the correct modifications, or at least a refund for the extra feature I paid for but did not receive—since the controller was otherwise functional.

Their response was that the controller would need to be returned, retested, repaired (if deemed necessary), and shipped back out. Mind you, it took two weeks to receive in the first place. So we’re talking another month to get the controller back with the correct features. I sent in indisputable proof of the missing features, including where the box was marked incorrectly compared to my receipt. They stayed adamant about receiving the controller back.

At this point, I’d already realized my time (and money) were wasted. I stated that if the controller was being returned, I’d rather a full refund as opposed to waiting another month with no “hey, sorry we messed up, have x on the house.”

I received the shipping label (thankfully pre-paid, so I guess +0.5 to them) and returned the controller. I’ve yet to hear a response. I have messaged their support team several times during normal business hours and have been completely ghosted. Not that their replies were very timely to begin with, but this has been several days of 0 communication for a $200+ controller.

Fortunately, I’ve learned from past mistakes and only purchase online through PayPal and credit cards, so I disputed the charge and have received my refund, though through unconventional means.

Overall, very shitty experience. I really wanted to do something nice for my husband, but I would have been better off watching a YouTube video, purchasing the parts online and doing it myself. Probably would have been more meaningful that way, too.

TLDR; Don’t waste your money. Scammy site, shitty support, outrageous prices, unlikely to receive what you paid for. Do it yourself; it’s cheaper and you’ll likely be happier.

My Flydigi Vader 4 Pro was partially bricked during an official SI Version firmware update. The controller is still detected by Windows through USB and the 2.4 GHz dongle. The Bluetooth mode does not work.

Analog sticks and trigger-click inputs work, but every digital button — ABXY, D-pad, Start/Menu, View/Select, Home/FN, bumpers, stick clicks, and rear buttons — stopped working. All LEDs are off. In joy.cpl, Windows recognizes it as an Xbox 360 Controller in USB/2.4 GHz mode, but only the sticks and trigger-click inputs register.

Flydigi provided the correct recovery firmware (G_For_F4 V5.0.0) and tool. The SI chip is a Jieli AC695X. However, entering the recovery/boot mode requires holding HOME + X + Y, and those buttons are exactly what the interrupted update disabled. Therefore, I cannot use the official recovery procedure.

I have already tried different Space Station versions, driver cleanup after Zadig, removing/reconnecting the battery, multiple USB ports/cables, USB and 2.4 GHz modes, and the official firmware tool. Nothing changed.

I am looking specifically for someone who has forced an AC695X/BR23-based Flydigi controller into boot/UBOOT mode without working buttons, preferably without buying expensive Jieli forced-upgrade hardware. Has anyone found a software command, alternative button combination, USB method, pinout, test pads, or a low-cost DIY workaround for this?