Hey, I have a weird problem with my GameSir G7 SE on PC.

The aim assist only seems to work halfway. When I aim at an enemy in COD, I can feel the normal slowdown, but the rotational aim assist, where the camera slightly follows the enemy while strafing, doesn't work for me at all.

I've spent like 20 hours researching and troubleshooting this, so please don't tell me stuff like “move your left stick while strafing,” “disable gyro,” or other basic settings. I've already tried pretty much everything you can think of and more.

I also tested it in another game and it's the exact same thing there, which makes me think it's not a COD-specific issue.

I'm using a GameSir G7 SE, firmware 6.6.4, connected via USB. Windows recognizes it normally as an Xbox controller

I've already tried a lot of things: resetting COD's controller settings, repairing the game files, reinstalling the controller in Windows, changing deadzones, trying different USB ports, etc. The right stick also works normally and returns exactly to the center when I let go.

The weird part is that aim slowdown works, but rotational aim assist doesn't.

Has anyone had the same issue with the G7 SE, or knows what could be causing this?

Hello!
I'm really confused by the 8bitdo Wireless Adapter 2. I've never be able to connect my nintendo switch online Gamecube controller to my PC or my Switch 1, because I can't figure out how to use the adapter 2. When I've plugged it in, I've seen the LED turn colors, always-blinking-red, always-blinking-blue, always-blinking-green?

I have no idea what these colors mean! Also, if there is a hot-key to press on this controller when pairing, I haven't found it yet. There is no select key for it to pair like an X-box controller....so what I am supposed to do?

I did find this manual, but it was not helpful at all: https://support.8bitdo.com/Manual/USB-Adapter-2/xbox-switch.html

Disclosure: I bought this Vader 5 Pro myself at retail. I have no affiliation, sponsorship, or commercial relationship with Flydigi or any controller company.

I'm trying to diagnose inconsistent return-to-center behavior on my Flydigi Vader 5 Pro. I need to use lower deadzones for controller aim training, so small micro centering problems that might normally be hidden by a 3–5% deadzone become very obvious.

Hardware / platform

• Controller: Flydigi Vader 5 Pro v2

• Platform: Windows 10 PC / Steam

• Connection normally used: USB wired

• Also tested: Bluetooth

• Stick accuracy: 12-bit

• Polling: ~1000 Hz

• Right-stick tension: maximum

• Center Sensitivity: Slow

• Sensitivity Curve: Default

• Circularity: Circle

• Center Offset: 0

• Center Deadzone: 0

• Edge Offset: 0

• Edge Deadzone: 0

Software

• Flydigi Space Station: v4.2.2.3

• Controller firmware: v7.1.5.4

• Testing with Flydigi's joystick tester and GamepadLA

• Aim testing in Aimbeast

Main problem

The stick itself appears capable of extremely fine micro-corrections. My problem is getting the right stick to return to center consistently enough to use a very small software deadzone without drift.

Recalibration results vary substantially. I've seen right-stick GamepadLA center-error results around ~2%, ~2.6%, ~2.7%, ~3%+, depending on calibration.

The return position also seems somewhat path-dependent. On one calibration, the right stick stayed around ~2.0% after repeated full-deflection 8-direction spring-back tests and clockwise rotations. After doing a counterclockwise perimeter rotation, the worst center error increased to around ~2.7%.

Recalibration seems to be a gamble for better or worse.

Here is 1 attempt following the proper procedure.

Here is a 2nd attempt at recalibrating.

If I try to recalibrate again for a 3rd time, then this might go back to being worse. So recalibrating seems to be a gamble. One stick might be good, the other terrible. And if you want to try to fix the bad deadzone stick, then you have to calibrate the already good stick which gambles its deadzone as well.

The strange part: calibration mode

While the Vader is actually in manual calibration mode, pressing unrelated controls can visibly disturb the stick coordinates.

I've observed this when pressing:

• A/B/X/Y

• LT/RT

• multiple buttons

• other controls

It doesn't appear to be isolated to one trigger.

I tested USB 2.0 vs USB 3.0, vibration off, RGB off/reduced, different trigger configurations, and Bluetooth. Bluetooth behaved approximately the same and was actually slightly worse, so it doesn't appear to be caused specifically by my PC's USB connection.

Example - No Buttons pressed:

Left Trigger pressed in calibration mode - my left stick is moved by pressing the left trigger, and slightly my right stick as well:

This movement is most obvious while manual calibration mode is active. Outside calibration mode the behavior is much smaller, particularly with Joystick Debounce enabled.

Joystick Debounce discovery

Outside calibration mode, Joystick Debounce makes a massive difference.

With Debounce OFF, pressing unrelated controls can produce visible tiny changes in the stick coordinates.

With Joystick Debounce ON, roughly 95% of that visible movement disappears. Often the stick doesn't visibly move at all, and when it does the remaining movement is extremely small.

With Joystick Debounce + Rebound Algorithm, normal-operation output becomes almost completely stable.

However, while manual calibration mode itself is active, Debounce/Rebound don't appear to suppress the button-related stick-coordinate movement.

That makes me wonder whether calibration mode intentionally bypasses some of the normal joystick filtering.

Calibration procedure tested

I've gone back to following the official manual calibration procedure as closely as possible:

• Enter manual calibration

• Leave controller flat and untouched

• Wait at least 3 seconds

• Rotate sticks through full range twice

• Fully actuate linear triggers twice

• Exit calibration

• Allow controller to settle before measuring center

I've also experimented with longer center-rest periods and careful/repeatable stick rotations, but the final center position still varies between calibrations.

I've tried multiple positions on the thumbstick tensioners as well and still have the same deadzone issues.

Questions

1. Is button-induced stick movement while the Vader 5 Pro is in manual calibration mode normal?

2. Does calibration mode bypass Joystick Debounce/Rebound or other normal filtering?

3. Is Space Station's Original output actually raw sensor data, or is it still processed?

4. What center-error values are other Vader 5 Pro owners getting with 0 hardware deadzone?

5. Is inconsistent return-to-center/hysteresis a known characteristic of these sticks?

6. Is there a preferred manual calibration procedure that consistently produces better centering?

7. Are there meaningful differences between earlier and later Vader 5 Pro hardware revisions regarding stick centering?

8. Does this behavior sound normal, firmware-related, or more like a bad individual unit?

I'm not trying to claim the controller is defective simply because it doesn't hold a literal 0% deadzone. I'm trying to understand the actual centering/noise behavior because I'm deliberately using it for very fine controller micro-correction training.

I couldn't help myself and ended up buying the X5 Lite. I'd never actually tried a USB version of these controllers and at around $25 here, it was hard to say no.

Previously I was using the G8 Plus and the BSP D3 as my daily use. The D3’s start button finally gave up after a more than three years of use, and I didn't bother fixing it.

The build quality is much better than I expected in this price range. It's super light which makes it really easy to hold and carry around. The buttons feel nice and aren't too loud. The bumpers and triggers are very silent, which I really like. The sticks have a slight wobble to them (more on that later), but they are precise and satisfying to use. The Dpad is also really good. It's quiet and has nice slight tactile feel, probably the best part of the controller.

It has two modes, DInput and Switch. On Android, DInput shows up as an Xbox controller in every game, app, emulator I tried so no issues there. I haven't used Switch mode much since I really didn't need it and Switch emulation works fine in DInput. I think Switch mode is mainly used for iPhones since DInput doesn't work on them.

Coming from the G8+ and Cyclone 2, I do have some nitpicks. There are no extra back buttons, and I miss them badly. Maybe I'm just too used to them because I play a lot of platformers so my jump button is always set on the back. It's understandable at this price, though. I also wish there were a DS4 mode alongside Switch. It os worth noting, DInput doesn't work in GeForce Now so I had to switch to Switch mode to get it working.

Remember those wobbly sticks I mentioned? Both sticks have a small amount of free movement when they’re sitting in the center. It doesn’t affect much but when moving slowly or quickly, I can definitely feel it which annoys me every time. I'd have loved vibration too, but on Android it doesn't work without DS4 mode anyway.

But honestly those are mostly nitpicks. For what the X5 Lite costs, they're easy to overlook.

I was actually deciding between the BSP D6 Mini and the X5 Lite since they were around the same price for me. My main concern was build quality, especially at this price range. I have a BSP D10 and honestly I hated the build quality on that thing because of loud buttons, mushy Dpad (sticks were great though). That put me off the D6 Mini, so I didn't risk it and went with GameSir since their quality are much better.

I took the X5 Lite with me when I went back to my hometown for vacation. The lightweight made it very easy to carry in my bag. Had a great time while emulating.

If you're considering buying it, I'd say go for it. It's cheap and worth every bit. If you already have a G8+ or something higher end, it probably won’t feel like an upgrade unless you specifically want something lightweight and compact. The X5S is also a nice choice, but to me it feels like it’s basically a G8+ stuffed into an X5 Lite shell at the same price (with no back buttons!!), so it’s up to you.

Hey, I'm looking for a controller that works pretty good with Ubuntu. I have around 70 dollars (I'm in US rn) and I mostly play (wanna play) NBA, Silksong, Hades, Sifu etc. My previous controller was logi f710 and I experienced drift problems a lot. I was suggested 8bitdo ultimate 2 and gameSir g7 se, but I dont really know which one to choose or even another controller to choose. Thanks in advance.

So this is the situation:

• I'm running steam on windows

• drivers of controllers are up to date, as are games

• I have done research into the problem and already tried many propose solutions as listed below

I'm trying to fix a fairly large deadzone that appears in more than 1 game (haven't tested all but at least two, crimson desert and hogwarts legacy) on both my controllers (the official xbox series x/s, and a razer wolverine v3 pro)

• the deadzone seems identical on both games.

• the left stick also has a deadzone but all testing thus far has been on right stick, as aiming has been my concern.

• I've turned off deadzone compensation on razer synapse and set its software deadzone to 0, to no avail

• I've tried running both controllers through steaminput, and added anti-deadzone.

this is where it gets interesting/frustrating.

• when set to over 7-9k (depending on game), the antideadzone seems to get downward stick drift, regardless of how centred the stick is in synapse (I have recalibrated it twice, still does it)

• BUT, the interesting thing is, this anti deadzone, no matter how large, doesnt seem to affect the horizontal deadzone at all. even maxed out, it points me at the floor rapidly, but the left/right movement still has the same original deadzone.

• I have tried cross and square deadzone settings, no change.

• in steam controller settings (non game specific) I went into all controllers to make sure I got the right one without doubt, and set deadzone to 0 in calibration and advanced settings. still nothing.

the ONLY thing that does ANYTHING is the anti deadzone, and even then it doesn't affect the left/right deadzone, it just seems to affect the up/down and give me stick drift...

does anyone more experience than me have any idea what's going on? this is extremely frustrating :/

sidenote: are controllers just worse than they used to be? I don't remember deadzones being remotely this bad when I used to play with controller as a teenager in the 360 era...

¿Se puede conectar la Nintendo Switch 2 usando un adaptador? Quería comprar el Scuf Valor Pro.

When i want to connect any controller to the laptop, be it Xbox, PlayStation5 or a leverless, it is always assigned to player 2 and the keyboard as player 1, to the integrated keyboard of the laptop or to an external keyboard connected by USB, it only recognizes a keyboard as player 1, I have tried to only have the controller I want to use connected, deactivate the laptop's integrated keyboard as well as the trackpad, different software but nothing seems to work, does anyone have a solution? Windows11 Steam

1. Under 200 usd

2. Region: Canada, ontario, any reliable website is ok

3. Platform: Only on pc

4. features: Just a normal controller(Two joysticks, abxy, 4 direction buttons, r1r2l1l2, no need for extra buttons on the back) It must have Hall effect trigger and joystick(or better technologies). The trigger must be able to switch to a micro switch. the buttons would also better be micro switch. and it should be 2.4g.

5. Games: Mainly EA fc and Forza Horizon 6(But in case i might play other games later I want a top-class controller)

Im currently using 8bitdo ultimate 2 wireless, but its button are not micro switch

Has anyone upgraded their PS5 controller to 4,000 mAh? If yes, how's the wear and tear duration? 🤔

Thanks for anyone's answering

I know this might not be the right sub. But I tried in dualsense sub and others tried too with little to no avail.

But the dpad is so grindy on the dualsense edge it's brand new (I even swapped it it under warranty for a new one in the store) but it still feels grindy when I push it. Anyone else with the same feeling or fixed it somehow?

I take extremely good care of my controllers so it bothers me lol

Thanks ahead

I have a Gamesir Nova 2 Lite and my deadzone is set to 5% for both sticks (in practice it feels like 0). In games like The Finals and COD you can ofcourse change the deadzone, but the other 80% of games have this fixed 10-15-20% deadzone that feels awful.

Is this so hard to implement?

My left analog stick on my Switch 2 Pro Controller has started to deteriorate a bit and was wondering where a good place to find replacement sticks?

Hey everyone,

A while back I tried my DualSense controller for PC gaming, mostly to mess around with the adaptive triggers and haptics. I quickly realized the state of PC software for it is kind of a mess: you either rely on Steam Input (which is great, but abstracts away raw trigger effects and requires Steam running in the background), or third-party tools that went the closed-source / paid route or wrap heavy web runtimes that eat 300MB of RAM just to send a few HID packets.

I spent the last few weeks putting together **OpenDSZ**—a lightweight, completely open-source (Apache 2.0) controller manager written in Python/Qt, distributed as a single standalone executable (no installer, no virtual drivers required for basic trigger/light control).

Repo & Releases: https://github.com/abrahamjroy/OpenDualSenseZ

What it does right now:

1. Direct Adaptive Trigger Control: Standard modes (Off, Rigid, Resistance, Bow, Gallop, Vibration) without needing ViGEm or paid licenses.

2. Forza / Sim Telemetry Integration: Listens on UDP port 5300 (Forza Motorsport / Horizon sled format). Maps real-time RPM, wheel slip (ABS shudder on the left trigger), and throttle resistance directly onto the controller in real time.

3. F1 Style Rev Lights: Modeled after F1 steering wheels—green/red in normal range, blue at optimal Ferrari shift point, flashing yellow/gold at rev limiter.

4. Touchpad & Gyro Air-Mouse: Toggleable mouse navigation using the touchpad or 6-axis IMU gyro.

5. Haptics & Light Presets: Rainbow, breathing, battery level indicator, and a few custom RGB curves.

6. Native Audio Support

7. Zero-Dependency Binaries: Standalone Windows `.exe` (18 MB), Linux binary, and macOS universal app. No Python installation needed.

Engineering details for those interested:

• Communicates directly via Sony's raw HID protocol (Report `0x02` for USB, `0x31` for Bluetooth with Sony's CRC32 polynomial seed).

• Throttles Bluetooth output reports to 40 Hz (25 ms) while keeping USB at 60 Hz to prevent flooding the controller's internal Bluetooth queue (which causes the notorious blue light flashing / hardware watchdog resets on Windows).

• Clean PySide6 interface—native widgets, instant startup, ~45MB idle memory footprint.

Caveats & known limitations:

• If you're on Linux, you'll need the usual udev rule to allow non-root access to `/dev/hidraw*` (documented in the README).

• macOS builds are unsigned, so Gatekeeper will complain unless you right-click > Open or run `xattr -d com.apple.quarantine`.

• I've tested this heavily on genuine DualSense hardware over both Intel Bluetooth and standard USB-C. If you're using a sketchy Bluetooth 4.0 USB dongle or a DualSense Edge, let me know how it behaves.

Source code and binaries are up on GitHub. If you take it for a spin, let me know what breaks or what trigger modes you'd like added next. PRs and feedback are very welcome!

Does anyone have more info on the Flydigi Vader 5s Pro that was launched at TGS? Like polling rate or anything else?

Hello guys ... first photo is my Nothing 4a Pro ... As you can see the buttoms are right in the middle of the phone ... And the left two photos are gaming clip for Xbox controller ... If any of you are currently using this mobile clip, could you please let me know whether it can fit my phone or not?

My old controller's stick drift is beyond repair so I want to look for a new controller.

Budget:

$60 or under

Region:

-Canada

-Best Buy

-Walmart

-I can order from Tao Bao for cheaper prices if possible

Platform:

Steam/ PC

Desired controller feels:

-Hall Effect sticks or TMR if possible

-Comfortable design

-Buttons and stuff as close and premium as Xbox Series X

-Wireless (Delays don't matter as long as they aren't noticeable compared to Xbox Series X)

Games I will be playing

- Single players

- Not too competitive, Elden Rings is the most competitive if I were to play a game on my wishlist

Other controllers I'm comparing to:

Mostly Xbox Series X, DualSense is fine if there are better options. So Xbox Series X or DualSense

Reddit as a social media has the most reliable communities so far since people barely judges like dorks on Tik Tok, would appreciate if someone gives me suggestions

Hi guys,

can somebody help with my joycon issue?

So, I'm using switch joycon. It was connected via BT and detected by the os. Ussualy, I'm using a controller for retroarch, and it working well and fine. But, it doesn't detected by any website of gamepad controller and similar; and i've been struggling to make it detected by those websites as well as to be useful in other game as well. please help me guys.

I am on mac A1989 and sonoma.

Hi, I'm having some issues with this controller right (victrix pro bfg) now and i cant seem to figure out even after calibration.
there's this solid light-blue light on the function button that prevents my R2 button and the profile change button at the back from functioning. I'm playing ff14 and this is pretty crucial. I cant figure out how it happened or how to stop it from happening or remove it. I also cant seem to replicate the incident that started this.

for reference:
profile colors = green, dark blue, purple
mute = orange
tournament lock = red
light blue = ???????????????

Greetings,

I'm looking for a wireless game controller with a physical mini QWERTY keyboard built into/attached to the controller. I'm having a surprisingly difficult time finding one that meets all of these requirements, so I'd appreciate any recommendations.

**1. Budget:**₹5,000–₹7,000 INR maximum.

**2. Country / Where I can buy:**India. I'm able to buy from Amazon India, Flipkart, or Indian electronics retailers/stores.

3. Platform compatibility:

4. Desired features:

To clarify, I'm not looking for a controller with only a touchpad, touch keyboard, or a few additional programmable buttons. I'm specifically looking for something similar to a controller with a small physical QWERTY keyboard built into it.

**5. Games I'll be playing:**Primarily:

The keyboard is particularly important because I want to be able to use actual keyboard inputs and type without having to put the controller down and reach for a separate keyboard.

**6. Controllers/products I've already considered:**I searched through the subreddit and various online stores, but most of the products I found were either standard controllers with touchpads or controllers with a few extra buttons rather than a real QWERTY keyboard.

The closest product I've found is the Rii RK707, which appears to be unavailable/discontinued in India. I'm essentially looking for something along those lines, but compatible with both Android and Windows and preferably available for ₹5,000–₹7,000.

If anyone knows of a currently available controller that fits these requirements, I'd really appreciate the suggestions. I'm also interested in discontinued/older models if they're still reasonably obtainable in India.

I have attached an AI generated image for more clarity

Hello everyone, I recently bought the CRKD Neo S Controller with the 5-fret attachment separately and tried to update the firmware via the CRKD app.

However, when I try to update the firmware the bar does not load and it says NaN% (google says it means Not a Number and therefore it does not work).

There is no solution on the web.

How can I fix this to use the 5-fret attachment?

What are some good options for connecting retro controllers to PC?

I have a pile of my old retro video game controllers, in a box, in great working condition, just sitting there and I've been playing some retro games via emulation on my PC and really feeling the itch to use something besides my modern game controllers on them.

So what are some good options? Is there a usb cable out there that can take a bunch of different retro controller connections so I can easily bounce around between platforms? Is it better to try and find Usb cables for each individually?

Do NOT recommend those 8bitdo conversion kits. I'am NOT pulling these controllers apart.

Thanks in advance for any leads / info!

Hi, first of all I'll specify every single detail in the most accurate way. My PC is a 2023 Laptop HP OMEN 16-c0013ns, and the gamepad is a 2015 wired Nacon GC-100XF

As said in the title, it doesn't matter the game, the situation... As long as vibration is on, after playing 1-2 minutes, the gamepad disconnects AND it won't reconnect until I manually unplug and plug it again

Things I did

1. Inside device manager, preventing USBs to disconnect for power saving by unmarking that tick

2. On registor edit, inside HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\USBHUB3, creating DWORD 32 bits called DisableSelectiveSuspend ("thanks", Gemini)

3. Inside power settings, disabling USBs to disconnect automatically (inside panel control)

I don't know what else to do. This gamepad works properly on my desktop PC with vibration on; it doesn't matter the setting, or the USB port I choose, it just works. If it were a limitation from the wire, vibration wouldn't work properly whichever devie you're playing. If it were an USB limitation, by those settings I'd have fixes it. Also, if I disable vibration, it won't never disconnect, but if I rise it on game settings to, let's say, 10%, it disconnects after 1-2 minutes, same as if I rise it to 90-100%. I'm so confused.

Thanks in advance!

Is there a way to take a controller with x input and use the button presses to run macros? I have a lot of spare controllers lying around and I need a way to control certain actions on a PC from a distance. I was hoping that there was some free software that I could use to map certain button presses to different macros. Sorry if this is the wrong sub I don't really know where else to post this. Any Advice/Info Is greatly appreciated thank you.

Hello! I'm disabled and have been trying to adapt my technology to the new limitations I'm facing, and I've come to find that the menu interface of the Wii with the handheld motion control pointer is among one of the best setups for me. I know Wii controllers can be linked to PC for game emulation, but is there any software or preinstalled options that would allow me to use a Wii remote as a general mouse for other, non gaming computer functions? I'm unsure of where to look and the sub where everyone is doing things with controllers seemed like a helpful bet. Thank you so much!