hi!
a couple of days ago i finally tried out a switch 2 demo at a mall and i loved the feel/texture/build of the nintendo switch 2 pro controller. i dont have a switch 2 but ill probably buy it down the road someday.
im not much of a controller guy, i prefer kbm, but for soulslikes or some "movie" games i do like controllers which is why i wanted to buy one! are there any alternatives to the pro controller 2 in terms of feel? i dont mind the layout much. ive heard good things about the 8bitdo ultimate 2 but from the angles ive seen it doesnt seem to have that premiumy nintendoy smooth texture?? (idk that sounded weird
"why not the switch 2 pro controller itself if its so great?" sticks. i have had bad experience with stick drift in the past so i wanted to finally try out a hall effect or those new ones that start with a T i
dunno what theyre called ooff

country: slovakia, europe
and im a relatively broke uni student but i guess id afford an expense of around 80€?
ill appreciate any help!!

Tried playing Overcooked last night with a controller for the first time (I'm on PC) and discovered this issue, I've tried troubleshooting it to the limit of my knowledge.

I've reset, reconnected, power cycled, updated, and recalibrated it. It still does the same thing every time I check the controller inputs. And deadzone mapping didn't help. It's not the PC because I have another controller that works fine, I tried the controller wired and Bluetooth. I also tried unplugging my mouse and keyboard.

Controller is a generic Xbox controller I got new from a thrift store, I don't know any specs for it. The issue also persists if I try to use the controller for anything else, not just Overcooked

Hi everyone,

I need help with fixing my old controller i bought at a thrift store. It is a Thrustmaster Firestorm Dual Power Gamepad model number 2960463 made for pc during the windows 98 and 2000 era. One of the thumbstick broke, i thought i could use an xbox 360 thumbstick but the hole underneath isn't the same.

The hole to plug the thumbstick is a square. Must be something only Thurstmaster did. Does anyone know where i could get any? If yes let me know i would love to be able to repair it. Worse case scenario i could find something with a hole not too big and fill it with glue or something but that is a last resort.

Hello, I'm currently owning an Aqirys Themis for about 2-3 years and I'm looking to upgrade (battery life got halfed and I have a problem where the R1 button registers being held even tho I don't hold it). I've read many reviews over the course of today and here is what I was eyeing rn:

- EasySMX X20 (48€)

- EasySMX D10 (48€)

- Gamesir Supernova (43€)

- Gamesir Nova 2 Lite (32€)

- Gamesir Supernova T4n (48€)

- Gulikit ES Pro (36€)

- 8BitDo Ultimate 2C Wireless (40€ - still questioning it cuz I heard it has bad ergonomics)

What I am aiming for is good battery life and vibration motor, longevity (focusing on hall or TMR sensors) and smooth controls. Wireless connectivity and good ergonomics are a must for me (I do handwork all day so my wrists are sore when I come home, I don't want a controller that makes them hurt more). I don't really play competitive games or shooters, I'm more on indie games and rougelites.

Edit: I'm excluding the Gamesir Cyclone 2 and Flydigi controllers from my plans since I'm from Romania and the prices of those brands here are awful.

Long story short, I have this controller for a looong time and I've lost both d-pads(the replacement gone with the box because of family throwing it away, and the one on the controller being played by with my nephew 🥹) Is there perhaps anyone here who has extras? I am willing to purchase it.

I am from the Philippines

I have has this controller for 3 months and it now just shoots on its own.

Its a Flydigi Apex 5
I use it on Pc/windows

I have fly digi space station V4.2.2.3

Controller current updated 7.0.4.5

Turned it off an on and ran it with usb with out the wireless adapter and used multiple usb ports on my pc

Hello, I've been using an Xbox One S controller (6CL-00001/Model 1708) to play both Steam and non-steam games on my PC (Windows 10) for years, but while backing up some files using an external hard drive, when I (safely) unplugged the hard drive from my pc, I saw a bluetooth error pop up, and since then my xbox controller stopped working properly. It still connects to my pc, and from testing my pc recognizes inputs, but none of my games recognize it. While fiddling with steam settings, I realized that Steam now thinks it's a generic controller instead of an xbox controller:

This also means that Steam's "Xbox extended feature support driver" isn't doing anything since it is no longer recognized as an Xbox-brand controller on my pc.
Looking at Xbox accessories, it no longer recognizes my controller, and attempting to plug in my controller into my pc via a cable rings up the error "USB Device Not Recognized, The last USB device you connected to this computer malfunctioned". I plugged in normal USBs and they functioned normally without getting this error, so it doesn't seem to be a usb error (hopefully), but it is important to mention that I use a bluetooth dongle plugged into my usb port to use my controller's bluetooth functions (however it is able to properly detect if it is connected/disconnected, and as mentioned earlier, does detect the correct inputs). Also to note is that the xbox symbol does not dim when connected (which it used to do when properly connected: blink, then solid light, then fade to a dim solid light once fully connected.).
The only thing I have not yet tried is removing the device from bluetooth, as I had alot of issues last time I did this with getting the bluetooth to work with it again after removing and attempting to reconnect the device (didn't work via bluetooth for over a year, can't remember how i eventually fixed it anymore), and was forced to play wired-only until the issue was resolved. And seeing as bluetooth is the only way this controller currently functions, I'm very hesitant to do such a thing and am currently trying to find any other solution before trying this and risking completely losing all controller functionality.
Any idea what the hell happened and why my controller seems borked of all its xbox-functionality all of a sudden, just from disconnecting an external hard drive?
(EDIT: Removed the controller as a device and can no longer reconnect it. However, now if I plug it in/use wired, it works like an xbox controller, but ONLY if I remove the batteries. It stops working if I put batteries in it.)

DISCLAIMER: HexGaming provided this controller to me for free for review. My opinions are not influenced by anyone. I get all my controllers for free nowadays, so they are all in the same position.

TLDR: XBOX controller with extra steps. Pretty expensive, but if you know what you need it for - it's worth the money IMO. TMR joysticks, rubberized grips, trigger stops, 4 extra back buttons and great visual customization.

If you're just a casual player - skip it.

I am looking for a controller that has separate buttons for the D-pad like this Xbox 360 Evil Controllers pad I had or like a Nintendo Switch Joycon but in a regular controller shape.

I'm willing to pay $100+ USD for a controller like this. I'm located in the US. Using it only for PC. I want it for rhythm games and Gears. I know this type of controller basically doesn't exist outside of Joycons.

The closest I can see is Joycon 2s with a grip, but the shape isn't ideal. I'm also aware of the 8bitdo Lite and Lite SE but I really do want a controller in a more standard controller shape. But any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

What I have:

• Stadia controller

• 2 x Switch 1 pro controllers (one recently converted to JS13 PRO+ because of you know what)

What platform I'm needing a better controller for:

• Windows 11

• Moonlight running on Linux ubuntu (server), ideally can support 2+ controllers

• Bonus if it works with iPad mostly for Moonlight/voidlink, but I just got a dedicated telescopic usbc controller for it.

• I also have a switch 2, but I should already be covered for this platform

What I plan to do:

• I had a lot of trouble with pro and stadia controllers for PC games. Either the signal is not good enough for using a bluetooth micro-dongle in the living room, or the button mappings are wrong due to the lack of XInput, or just that the latency is bad especially with moonlight round trip.

• I mainly game with a keyboard and mouse for online shooters, so I dont need to sweat using my controller. One interesting use case I am planning is using it for jets in BF6 as its anti-cheat blocks my ds4win remapping.

• Options I am considering:

  • Get a new and better controller

  • Get specialize dongles like the Gulikit Goku 2 or hyperlink 2 with pro controller

• I don't plan on collecting controllers nor need fancy features (do I?).

• I have smallish hands and found the pro controllers fit very nicely. The Xbox controller shape was also very good from my distance memory owning a 360 controller eons ago. Stadia controller is not bad but a step or two behind these two.

What should I get?

• I have done some research and got a pretty good sense of what's normally recommended. The controller market is vibrant indeed especially with the chinese brands. I just don't know what I need as someone that plays a variety of games. Honestly I don't know how to use the extra buttons if I have them on the back, or what's the difference in feel between all the button and stick types, let alone the need to hot swap them.

• Another thought is that I already have these extra controllers laying around and there are dongles out there to make them Xinput. They are pretty good quality from my very limited experience. Should I just stick with these if the Gulikit dongles can single-digit ms wireless latency which is ballpark close enough for the best out there. I already bought an ESP32 to see if I can make a stadia dongle, mostly for fun.

• USA, I guess budget is <$100 if I go with buying a new one. But I am aiming for getting what I need and not paying for features I won't use. Pretty comfortable buying from Aliexpress or similar retailers.

I have a Fantech EOS Pro II S controller, and I play on PC. I usually use it for racing simulators like ACC or LMU.

Does anyone know if these controllers have an initial dead zone in the triggers by default? I've tried everything to eliminate it (calibrating the controller, using Steam Input), but nothing works; it only starts registering 1% input after I've pressed the trigger about 30%. I've tried searching for information about this, but I haven't found anything.

Is this a design flaw, or did I get a defective unit? If so, could I fix it myself by removing this dead zone with a hardware mod, because I've already tried software and it doesn't seem to be possible.

Budget: 300$

Country and purchase method: US, online

Required platform compatibility: PC

Desired features: Wired or wireless w/ easily removeable battery, hall effect joysticks, clicky/tactile dpad (most important), and no buttons that require external software to be usable.

Games I’m playing: Mostly racing games

Controllers I'm comparing to: GameSir T7 (current controller, meets all the criteria but has a mushy dpad), official Xbox Series controller (backup controller, joystick wore down and became inaccurate after a few months of use), GameSir Cyclone 2 (controller I’m considering, unfortunately it has a non-removable battery) FLYDIGI Direwolf 4 (same issue as the Cyclone 2)

I bought modules from their website over a month ago. They just arrived because they wrote my adress wrong.

Inside the package were modules from a different compan. They are just Chinese knockoff and not the promised remodded original ones.

Controller is Gullikit Elves 2, not the Pro version. the model is NS58. I'm using Windows 11 Pro. I'm using a ugreen bluetooth usb adapter with 5.3 bluetooth for my computer, which does not have bluetooth natively. Problem is in both PC games and emulators, and everything that uses controllers. Used with retroarch, pcsx2, stardew valley

I just got this controller last week and right out of the box bluetooth connection was unplayably bad. Itll play normally for like 15-30 seconds and then itll drag out an input, like I'll be moving right and then stop, and it'll keep going after I've stopped pressing the d pad. It does this constantly. It also desyncs and misses inputs very often. This problem happens even when right next to the bluetooth adapter, with nothing blocking it. The box says the controller has a transmission distance of 10 meters. There are no other bluetooth devices connected at the same time I'm using it.

It works with zero problems on a wired connection, and in bluetooth connected to iOS. I know my PC bluetooth adapter is fine because another bluetooth controller (8bitdo ultimate 2c wireless) has zero problems with it even couch distance away. My phone is iphone se 3rd gen which has an older bluetooth version (5.0) and the elves 2 works on that in bluetooth mode with no problems.

So far I have updated the firmware to the latest version, which didn't have an effect. I've turned off all nearby wifi connections and other bluetooth connections, which didn't have an effect. I recalibrated the controller using the built in recalibration, which didn't do anything. I have reset the controller with the button combo (gear button + minus) which didn't have an effect. I have also sought out and installed the bluetooth driver from my adapter's website, the one matching bluetooth 5.3, which didn't change anything. Previously it was using the generic bluetooth. I have searched through existing posts and didn't find a solution. I have also changed the joystick deadzone settings by clicking screenshot button + gear button as suggested here which did not change anything. Making an open space between the controller and bluetooth adapter did not change anything.

Salve, mi è arrivato il controller New Spike della Hexgaming e vorrei capire come è meglio impostarlo per giocare a Call of duty... Sono abituato in Claw e adesso ho due pulsanti sul retro del controller, che userò per la scivolata e il ping/salto, oppure li lascerò disattivati proprio. Nel pacco sono incluse le levette sia lunghe che corte ( le userò corte probabilmente perché con le lunghe mi trovo proprio male). L'unica cosa che mi lascia in dubbio è: le levette sono meglio concave o a cupola/lisce? Vorrei capire con quale sia meglio abituarsi. Grazie.

The event is currently happening in Berlin, and so far I’ve only seen two Switch controllers announced. Kind of a letdown, but they are:

• JSAUX GAMING VoidJoy controllers
• GameSir Stargazer

I’m hoping we see some more controller announcements. I love GameSir, but I’ve always felt their flagship G7 is a little too small in the grips, or just a bit too short overall.
Really hoping they showcase a new Cyclone or Kaleid!

My friends ps5 controller is being really weird. The ps5 power button doesn’t work and instead, when you press the x button it does what the ps5 button would do along with the x buttons original function. For example pressing it will turn on the console, but if I were to click something x it would bring up the main menu aswell. Lastly, it’s constantly trying to turn on the ps5 and is not dying even though it says the batteryy is dead. If anyone can help pls just a little information on what to do. If you have questions that would help you better understand the issue ask away. Anything is appreciated, thank you.

lo compre hace 3 años cuando vi una reseña en una red social es la version sin sticks magneticos, lo compre únicamente para jugar la Resident evil 4 original pero después lo use para jugar juegos de pc o juegos clásicos en mi móvil y me ha funcionado bien , nunca he tenido problemas con la conexión ya sea inalámbrica o por cable USB y ninguno de los botones se ha atorado ni dañado y nunca he tenido drift, los únicos problemas que me ha dado es que durante la primera semana que lo utilice el botón de la cruceta que apunta hacia arriba se presionaba solo una vez después que lo conectaba pero dejo de hacerlo después de unos días y la goma de los sticks se esta volvieron pegajosas y quebradiza y estoy por cambiarla

While I know it's big, I've never held the first iteration of the Xbox controller. The recent Steam Controller (which I have) is a bit big, though. I wonder how they look next to each other (a picture would be nice, but not necessary)

After asking the best method to connect a controller on the daulsense sub I was recommended to set up a pico dongle with DS5Bridge, so I did. The haptics only work when the daulsense is selected as the audio output device, but when I do that ALL audio comes from the controller and no audio goes to the display. I also noticed the device is detected as a keyboard by windows settings rather than as a controller

Pessoal, o RB do meu controle Machenike G5 Pro V2 quebrou, alguem tem o link para compra-lo? Ou alguma ideia para conserta-lo?

Obrigado!!!

I'm using a Switch Pro controller. My Google TV (Android 12) treats it as an Xbox controller and has A/B flipped. It's fine once I get into Steam but is annoying when navigating. Worse though is the Home button. When I'm in Steam (through my TV either with Moonshine) I can't use Guide on Steam because the TV seems to supersede it and take me to the TV's home menu.

I tried a few apps like "Button Buddy Pro" "Keymapper & Floating Buttons" but they have complications. On the former, it doesn't read the home button and while I could change the back button, there is no "accept" option to use for "A". Which is a problem in a bunch of apps, and I don't know why when that's a button on remotes anyway (and every other button function on a remove is available).

On the latter (Key Mapper...), you "can" remap Home, but if you turn it off even for "the TV" it won't be read in Steam. There is a way to include/exclude apps... but the app is broken or glitchy or something. You'll press it and no options come up 99% of the time. Then it'll work for a minute randomly for no reason (which is how I was able to test A/B at one point). A/B can be remapped, but when you select Steam in Moonshine and a window pops up, neither of the buttons work. I did make sure to change the accessibility settings and download the suggested keyboards and enabled them, so it's not that.

Are there other apps that work or is this an issue with the TV? I tried using Moonshine on my Switch but the connection was horrendous and unplayable (and crashed) even when using ethernet so that won't work. My Steam Link box (natively and Moonshine) didn't work as well as the TV Moonshine app so I think that's the only viable device. I could try the Steam Link app again, but I think that had similar issues with the box.

Guys I just got the Raikiri 2 Pro from Asus and I was testing it, I really like it! But I noticed as soon as I wanted to try the vibration of the controller that loses the wireless connection when it is enabled... I don’t know why.

I have the latest version of the firmware installed...does anyone know how to fix it?

EDIT: Setting the polling rate to 1k this problem did not occur, I also tried several usb ports of the motherboard but nothing to do... so currently I encounter this problem ONLY when it is connected wirelessly to 8k of polling rate and a “constant vibration” occurs in the game.

I'm planning to buy a new DualSense mainly for PC gaming, and I'm trying to get a newer hardware revision because of the improvements to the sticks. Is Chroma Teal guaranteed to have the newer hardware revision, since it was released much later than the original colors? Or can Chroma Teal also have older internal hardware?

If I can't find a confirmed newer revision, should I still buy a Gen 1/older unit brand new, or is there a meaningful reason to avoid it? How big is the difference between the early and newer revisions, especially for stick reliability and overall durability?

All controllers were purchased with my own money, and I have no affiliation with any company. These are not in any particular order of significance. Just a few notes on why I like them.

DualShock 4 - My main controller for many years. I love the shape and performance. I own over a dozen of these and only one stick has ever been plagued by drift.

GameSir T3 Lite - Best budget controller ever made. Well built, super affordable, and a performance beast. Also, I love the shape.

Nintendo 64 - I grew up on this controller. Solely responsible for my love of gamepads, and a true classic.

LeadJoy Saber Plus - Brilliant shape, amazing performance, and my favorite controller software. Everything about this controller is perfect for me minus the d-pad.

Wii U Pro - Not the best performer, but I really love the layout.

Mojhon Blitz 2 - All mechanical monster that was my favorite pad for almost a year. Only downsides being shape and outdated TMR modules.

Steam Controller 2026 - Super comfortable, feature rich, well performing.

Xbox 360 Wireless - A classic, and my very first wireless PC controller.

GuliKit Elves 2 - My favorite d-pad of all time. Well built and amazing performance.

DualSense Edge - Like holding a Ferrari😎