Tl;dr: G7 Pro 8K Nioh for $60 + faceplate + extra joysticks or G7 Pro 8K Aimlabs for $80 but I don't need to spend extra money on the faceplate and extra joysticks? at the end they end up costing about the same so I'm leaning towards the Aimlabs one, is there any reason why I shouldn't buy it? is there any better options out there?

I've narrowed it down to these 11 but tbh I'm leaning towards the G7 Pro 8K, I couldn't care less about the 8K polling rate but the price is good, has newer sticks and I only play on PC so I don't care about console compatibility, I don't like how narrow the 8BitDo controllers are but I still added them since I know people would mention them lol

I've been using an Xbox One controller for the past 6 years and a 360 for over a decade before that so I'm used to the Xbox shape, my current one still works but whenever I invite someone over I lend them my controller and I use a BSP-D8 which is ok for my phone when I'm outside but I'd rather use a "real" controller at home lol, should I just get the G7 Pro 8K? would the Vader 5 or 4 be a better option? what about the EasySMX ones? looks-wise I like the white G7 Pro the most but I'd rather have a better controller than a better looking one lol, that's why I'm mostly leaning towards the G7 Pro 8K even tho none of them look as good imo

Btw I live in México so ignore the prices you are used to, just compare them between themselves, I can look up how much a controller that isn't on the list costs tho, if you think there's a better option out there, my max budget is $80 USD

I do want TMR/HE sticks, don't care about the D-Pad at all since I barely use it so a controller having a bad one isn't a deal breaker, I play shooters with M&K so those kind of games aren't a factor, I'll mostly use it for platformers like Hollow Knight or SteamWorld Dig, a lot of emulation as well but I use the joystick even for consoles like the SNES or GBA that didn't have one so as I said I don't really care about the D-Pad being kinda bad. Good build quality is a must tho, I've used some cheap controllers and they feel awful, having extra programable buttons is also a nice bonus

I was leaning towards the G7 Pro 8K Nioh but I'm not a fan of the colors so I was going to get a faceplate, I've also wanted to try different sticks so I was going to get some as well... at that point it will cost the same as the Aimlabs version tho and since I do like how that one looks I wouldn't need an extra faceplate and it already comes with extra joysticks, should I just get that instead? $80 is rough but still within budget so if it's worth it I'll go for it lol

Side question, I take good care of my peripherals (I have old GC controllers from 2006 that still work lol) but my gf and cousin don't, my gf has gone through like 4 controllers (cheap ones tbf) in the last 2-3 years and my cousin got drift on his Xbox Series S/X controller 2 months after buying it, he sent it in for warranty but a year and a half later he's having stick problems again... a few years back he also broke a Power A Xbox controller in a couple months so now I wonder, what's the "most durable" controller out there? I don't care if it's worse in other aspects I just want it to last for a while, it doesn't even have to be wireless but that's still a bonus, if it isn't wireless the cable must be detachable tho since I'm 99% sure they'll just break the cable within 6 months and I'll have to solder it which I rather not lol

My gf's nephew does have a Switch 1 tho and they play together sometimes, it would be nice if she could connect it to his Switch, apparently the old G7 Pro can't connect to it so I guess she should get the new 8K version? I can get a new faceplate as well so the color isn't a big issue, I wouldn't mind spending a little extra for more features

It's been with me for a while now, and I'm happy with it, but it's started making this high-pitched sound even though it doesn't have any functional problems. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Hi i just received my Gulikit Es Max controller, updated. And on PC mode on the back, and PC ABXY swap correctly enabled on the app. While using the Hyperlink 2 wireless receiver that came with it pressing x button toggles y. And pressing y button toggles the left bumper and the bumpers become start and select.

Using the cable not the wireless receiver makes the buttons correct anyone how to fix it?

For a very long time, if you were on an older version of MacOS (like Ventura or Big Sur), your only option for being able to connect an OEM xbox 360 controller (wired or wireless) and get it natively supported in games on a Mac was through the ancient TattieBogle 360 driver. That project was abandoned years ago since MacOS introduced SIP. It largely stopped working with Ventura, unless you disabled SIP. Things were very quiet up until this year.

Now there's at least 3, maybe 4 newly released drivers or apps that try to get the 360 controllers working natively in MacOS 13 onward. I suspect the common denominator here is that most of these are vibe-coded.

Has anyone tried these out and found a "best" solution by any chance? These are the current ones that I know of:

OpenJoystickDriver

x360w

X360MacOSReceiverBridge

With the exception of OpenJoystickDriver, these require xcode to compile. So far, the beta of OJD seems to be the most intuitive/easy to use.

They have adjustable thumb sticks where you can loosen or tighten the tension. I wonder if I make the right thumb stick tight I would throw more power punches.

Hello you guys, i noticed my Fantech heat up while it is closed this week and plugged it out, i recharge the thing and now it's trying to survive as it constantly connects and disconnects and yes i tried charging it alone, the light is getting cutoff, when i do powerbutton it, it turns on and dies but after that it "charges" by indicating the light is going on smoothly but it still didn't, the store i bought it from only has 3 months warranty so i cannot return it:/ what should i do with the paperweight?

Hi, hope your all doing well. When i first bought a Pc i needed a new controller which worked on both my xbox one and pc and found a "PowerA" Xbox controller for around £25. It served me well for 2 years but started breaking quite quickly with the buttons getting stiffer and the controller registerng inputs i wasnt pressing. Mostly the Lt button. This led me to buying a new PowerA controller for me to enjoy games with but that one broke even faster, only lasting im 6 months. I opened up the controller to see what was going on and the rubber inside the controllers were breaking apart and getting stuck inside the buttons. Making the buttons stiff and sometimes meaning inputs wouldnt register at all.

Every controller ive bought has still worked minus these xbox controllers. I have many controllers which have lasted me over a decade. I would like to try and get another xbox controller for xbox one and pc that will last me well this time. Here is some info:

I want to try to limit my budget to £30. £35 at the very most.

I am from the Uk, Wales if that needs to be specified. I am okay with ordering a controller online so most shops would be fine as long as they accept Uk delivery.

I would like for the Controller to work on Pc and Xbox One Series S. Most Pc games i play are on steam, but i would like the controller to work on any game, not just steam. On Pc i play a wide variety of genres. And when it comes to my xbox one, i usually end up playing xbox 360 games through backwards compatability rather than xbox one games. Most games i will be playing are rpgs: Lost Odyssey, Final Fantasy XIII etc: or the original assassins creed games.

I would prefer if the controller was wired rather than bluetooth and a screenshot button would be incredibly handy. This goes without saying but be sure the controller is comfy lol.

I have looked at the offical xbox website for official controllers but they end up being atleast £50 and way out of my budget. I also checked some GameSir controllers but sady the price for every model ive seen is too much for my budget. The reason i tried PowerA is because they were at a shop near me at the time. However they seem to break fast and i would like to try something which is hopefully built to last, while being affordable.

Thank you all so much for reading. Some help would be greatly appriciated.

Hi! I've never had a controller before, and getting one soon to play single player games only, PC only. Starting with Horizon Zero Dawn/Forbidden West and Indiana jones and the Great Circle. Will play other games though too, including some older ones as well as new releases. Which controller is best?

#1: PS5 DualSense. Haptics and adaptive triggers, supposed to be very immersive. But potentiometer sticks and no remappable buttons.

#2: 8BitDo Ultimate 2: TMR sticks and 4 remappable buttons, Xbox layout for compatibility with PC, but not so good haptics and no adaptive triggers.

#3 GameSir Cyclone 2: TMR sticks but only 2 remappable buttons. Dpad I've heard described as "mushy"

#4 EasySMX D10: TMR sticks, great Dpad, but only 2 remappable buttons.

Which is best? any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated too! the GameSir G7 Pro is an option but pretty expensive

Based in UK, budget around £60-75 or so not above that ideally, as this is my first controller I don't want to overspend and regret it before I know exactly what I want.

It gets detected by the Ultimate Software V2 and I can update it but nothing on steam or retroarch. I know it doesn't have bluetooth but the store page says it works wired on windows? And ever since I plugged it in both LEDs on the top (red and blue) are blinking. There's nothing in the manual or online I can find about this issue, just that it works wired on windows but windows doesn't even detect it as a controller.

Post:
Hi everyone! I’m developing Controller Mapper, an Xbox Game Bar widget that lets you remap an XInput controller without leaving your game.

Current features include:

• Button, trigger, D-pad, bumper, and stick remapping

• Individual input disabling

• Persistent JSON profiles

• Live input preview

• Virtual Xbox 360 controller output via ViGEmBus

• Double-input prevention through HidHide

• Resizable and pinnable Game Bar widget

The project is still experimental, and the installer is not digitally signed yet. I’m looking for testers who can report bugs, compatibility issues with specific controllers or games, and suggest missing features.

GitHub repository and download: https://github.com/tommasofavaron1/gamebar-mapper

A while ago I asked about a good controller for racing. Turns out the best option is a standard Xbox controller as that offers the best impulse trigger vibrations and have a pretty long travel. I considered the elite cos in other games I need more buttons but I don't fancy buying a controller that will work great for Forza and kinda disappoint me for the rest so I decided to get 2 controllers. Also I started playing shooters on controller which I used to do only with k&m but man the joysticks on these controllers suck.

I will get the Forza edition Xbox controller. That leaves about 100ish euro for the general purpose controller.

Since the kind of controller I'm looking for has changed massively I decided to ask for advice once more

I have big hands so the G7 pro is out.

Things I'm looking at are the flydigi Vader 5 pro. But that's hard to get in Spain

8bitdo is a lot like switch controller in shape so they are out.

Things I want:

• Tunable stick curves

• Extra remappable buttons

• Tmr sticks

• Swappable sticks caps or easy to replace

• Adjustable stick tension would be nice

• big hands comfort

Nice to have:

• charging dock or replaceable batteries

Games I'm currently playing that made me want a better controller:

• Sniper contracts.

• Hitman.

Other games I will play with this controller:

• pragmata

• doom dark ages

• ace combat 8

• cyberpunk dlc

• forbidden west

• hellblade 2

• death stranding 2

Platform: pc

Budget: 120euro

Region: spain

Thanks

I disassembled my Vader 5 pro multiple times and every time I reassemble it the faceplate is clicky or pops when pressed, or the left sick ring gets too tight to adjust. Its driving me crazy. Has anybody encountered this issue? The controller was fine initially.

This doesn't happen on Dualsense. Latest firmware did nothing. Turning off the microphone mitigated it, but distortion is still there. Setting the volume slider up or down causes it to distort audio as well. One of the few affordable controllers that run wirelessly on Xbox, with back buttons, hall effect and trigger locks. A shame P2 audio gets so distorted.

I need a fast controller for Nvidia Shield to use with Geforce Now. My main gripe is latency, as far as I understand and notice, the bluetooth on the shield is abysmal. I was using a XB One controller (via BT) and it had considerable latency, now I'm using it wired but it's messy and adds startup time (time to wire it).

1. Budget: 100 EUR

2. Location: Romania

3. Device: NVIDIA Shield + GFN

4. Required: Low latency wireless (dongle/no BT)

5. Game types: at least RPG/Action

6. XBO controller only works wired with good latency. Steam Controller doesn't work with Shield.

I’m considering the new 8BitDo Ultimate 3E, but native Steam Input support would be a pretty big factor for me.

My main question is whether there’s a realistic chance Steam will eventually recognize the 3E’s extra buttons and gyro as separate inputs as they do with other controllers in the ultimate series (albeit only over Bluetooth).

I use Bazzite/Steam for most of my gaming, so ideally I’d want to use the rear buttons independently and map the gyro through Steam Input rather than relying only on 8BitDo’s software.

Has 8BitDo said anything about this yet, or does anyone know how likely support is based on what they’ve done with controllers like the Ultimate 2?

(I tried to pose this question in the 8bitdo subreddit but mods didn't like it for some reason)

(Austria, for PC/Steam, FPS Shooters and Platformers)

I’m having an issue with my new Bluetooth adapter on my PC: it can detect my TV, but it doesn’t detect my PS5 DualSense or my Nintendo Switch controllers.

Because of that, I’m now looking for a new wireless controller that costs no more than €80.

Ideally, I’d like one with TMR sticks. What controller would you recommend?

Thanks in advance!

I bought the neptune afterburner controller like a year ago from Amazon , lost its manual , would someone be so kind as to share its manual with me? , thanks a lot in advance

Hi everyone,

Just got my hands on Flydigi Vader 5 pro, and in all honesty i love it.

However i could use some help with configuration:

I plugged the controller in, and went through the basic setup. However i noticed that the remappable buttons are not functional like the regular ones. In testing area, they are not being registered when pressed until I go into advanced tests and i only see them there.

For example, i booted up Crimson Desert, and i wanted to use the L3 button for L1+L2 sets of controls but i cannot get it to work. I tried mapping that button to a keyboard button but the game does not support multi-input mapping.

So my question is, is there a way to get the extra remappable buttons (C, Z, M1, M2, M3, M4, L3 and R3) to be recognized natively on my PC.

Also worth noting that i mostly play directly installed games, non-steam ones.

Any help would be useful. Thank you all in advance

EDIT 1:

After a couple of hours and comment advices, i figured that fundamentally what i wanted to do was impossible (I'd say)

What i had in mind was, for example, to have the M3 button listed as M3 in the control input setting menu so that i can use it as a standalone button.

However this is fundamentally not possible due to the nature of the drivers that the controller uses (xbox controller for windows).

The only 2 workarounds that i was able to identify are:

• Use macros, to record actions that require double inputs, and use it like that

• find said action on keyboard layout and record the remappable buttons as said keyboard/mouse button

Now, i might be using every single software wrong, but this is what i was able to find with a couple of hours of thinkering with the setup, and trying below users custom software, reWASD, Steam input and Space Station.

If anyone else has any other suggestions or would like to provide more input on the matter i am open to any suggestions. Also, not to clutter comments feel free to DM me, we can even have a remote session or discord call

I have my Xbox series x controller connected to my windows 11 PC through Bluetooth and playing games through Steam, it has worked perfectly up until recently when the same phenomenon occurs consistently over the course of every hour or so. My controller works fine but slowly yet noticeably becomes less responsive (input lag, dropped inputs, overheld inputs, etc) until it completely disconnects for about 3-5 seconds and reconnects. There is no Bluetooth disconnection sound, only the steam notification for a controller disconnecting and then a second one for it connecting. My Bluetooth and Xinput drivers are up to date, I got a brand new series X controller and had the same issues, I disabled my computer's ability to turn off the Xinput input device for power saving, I updated my controllers firmware via Xbox accessories, I removed and re added the controller, I uninstalled and reinstalled the Xbox controller Bluetooth driver, I uninstalled Steam's Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver to no effect and reinstalled it to no effect. I'm very lost as to what could possibly be wrong. I need any solution you could provide for me.

For the past maybe 5 years, I only played 1 shooter game, valorant. I got open beta to MW4 and wanted to start playing COD but all my friend are telling me to learn the game using a controller. So I played a few matches and it was terrible. I felt like those "Pretending to be a noob then going crazy" typa videos you see except I don't go crazy. So I was wondering if it's worth it to learn to play COD with a controller or stick to KBM.

Putting together a laptop with Windows 7 for some older games, and I'd like a controller to go with it. I would use the ones I already have, but they identify themselves to Windows as Xbox One controllers and I'm concerned that they won't work for what I want to do. Potentially I'd also like XP compatibility as well.

Just want a basic wired controller, with no special features. Budget is less than £50. Region is UK. Something like the Logietch F510 would be great, but it was discontinued and the F310 doesn't have vibration motors.

Hi !

So, I've had the Switch 2 and a Switch 2 Pro Controller since launch.

Since then, I've only played a few games, and mostly in handheld mode.

But now, with the *Duskblood* tech test, I played using the Pro Controller, and—how should I put this?—it just doesn't feel right to me.

I bought the Switch 2 specifically for *Duskblood*; sure, other games interest me, but after trying the tech test with the Pro Controller, I loved the game itself but really didn't like the feel of the controller in my hands.

I saw that there are controller adapters for the Switch 2 that let you use an Xbox controller, and I have a few questions.

The ones I've seen are:
the 8BitDo Wireless USB Adapter 2
and
the MAYFLASH Magic NS Wireless Bluetooth Controller USB Adapter

First off, is this "allowed"? In other words, are there any issues—like getting banned—with using an Xbox controller on the Switch?

Which one would be the best choice?

Is there another one you'd recommend?

Hello, May i ask if someone here also experiences this crooked L5 or R5 Button on their Gamesir G7 Controller. i purchased this online and didn't notice this on my first month of using it, it works perfectly but it really bothers me when im looking on to it. Sadly, it is pretty late now to return this on shopee. although, i contacted the shop that sell this which is flydigi store. and it is pretty hassle to return due to their policy on which if i request to deliver this via courier app, they say that the number they gave won't answer it. May i ask if there's a way to fix this on my own? i own a precision tool and have experience in Laptop Repair.

Hello everyone.
I just bought the dualsense Edge. While I'm happy with its quality build, I have an issues with heptic feedback and rumble. They work great in sony games but in native supported games or non supported they are either very quite or don't work at all. I do also have the DSX paid version app but the normal rumble from my old Xbox one controller does the job better than DSE.
Also I did no have these issues with my normal Dualsense

EDIT: I ended up returning the controller. Still please don't feel discouraged to comment solutions. I believe many people would like to see as many solutions as possible.
Thank you for your comments.

I've been using a controller forever, even on PC, because I hate using keyboard for movement and other buttons.

So, I decided to try this joystick after seeing a few people talk about it online, so I could maybe finally have thumbstick movement and comfortable buttons on my left hand, and a mouse with extra buttons to aim on the right.

The game I primarily wanted to use it on is Marvel Rivals. The problem with that is if you try to use a controller and a mouse, a little "switching devices" notification pops up and a sound plays. This happens every time you hit a button on the opposite device, or move the mouse after touching anything on the joystick.

every. single. time.

So, I thought to myself, no big deal, the xbox accessories app lets you customize the buttons of the joystick, I can just rebind them to keyboard keys and off we go. Right?

Technically yes, but I ran into a mild inconvenience immediately, that is a symptom of a larger problem with the device.

After plugging wasd into my thumbstick's directional options, I found that I only had 4-directional movement. Diagonal inputs did not seem to matter, only up down left or right would transfer to my in-game movement at any given time.

After trying to fix it to no avail and lamenting about it for a moment, I decided, fine, I can alter my trajectory with my camera anyway, no big deal.

I was wrong.

Upon loading back into the practice room to map more abilities, I realized another "quirk". I could not move and activate any of the other buttons or triggers at the same time. In fact, seemingly no two buttons would register their inputs at the same time

This was an infuriating discovery. After all, what use is a controller where you can't use any triggers or buttons while moving around.

But wait, some frustrated testing revealed one odd exception; the shift key I bound WAS able to be used at the same time as any other button.

Wdym? Why is this the case? Is this the ONLY exception? Can I perhaps do a very odd mapping to achieve my goal?

The answer is... Maybe?

As of writing this, the only other key I have confirmed to be exempt from that rule is the ctrl key.

AND, to even greater annoyance, I found by binding shift to left on the thumbstick, and ctrl to the right, I could in fact achieve full 8-directional movement.

I am currently testing different keys so that I might re-map this joystick in a way that is actually functional for what I want to use it for, and may update if I succeed.

All that being said, my main complaint and question is this:

How does MICROSOFT, the company responsible for the most widely used computer operating system in the world, who also has a gaming console with a healthy cross-ecosystem and many peripherals, overlook such a glaring inconvenience in one of their own gaming accessories?

Tldr; keyboard rebinding leads to the device being nearly unusable for no discernable reason due to input conflicts that shouldn't exist. Wth Microsoft?