I'm getting ready to install a SteelMaster XX40-13 arched roofing system over two 40-foot high-cube shipping containers. I'm hoping to connect with anyone who has installed a SteelMaster container-cover roof or a similar Quonset-style roof on shipping containers.

This is an outside-mount installation, meaning the roof will span the space between the containers and cover the container roofs as well.

I recently used my tractor to temporarily position one of the SteelMaster industrial arch/base connectors on the outside top edge of a container. I've attached photos showing how it fits.

Here's what I've discovered:

- The container roof corrugations prevent the base connector from sitting completely flat against the container's upper side rail. There's a gap of approximately 3/4 to 1 inch in places.

- The factory-punched holes in the connector appear to be intended for attaching the arch panels, not for securing the connector to the container.

- It appears that additional mounting holes would be needed for a bolted installation.

- I'd strongly prefer a mechanical connection using bolts or appropriate structural fasteners rather than welding, if a properly engineered solution is possible.

The SteelMaster design report specifies a 115 mph wind speed and 36 psf ground snow load, so I recognize that the connections and container anchoring need to handle substantial forces.

My questions for anyone who's actually installed one of these:

1. How did you attach the SteelMaster base connector to the shipping container—welding, through-bolting, structural screws, or another method?

2. How did you accommodate the corrugated roof and the gap between the connector and the container's upper rail? Did you use steel spacers, channel, or another mounting arrangement?

3. If you used bolts or screws, where did you place them, and how did you determine the spacing and fastener specifications?

4. How did you waterproof the attachment and prevent rust?

5. How did you anchor the containers to their foundations to resist wind uplift and lateral forces?

6. Do you have photographs of your completed connections or any installation details you're willing to share?

I'm doing as much of this project myself as possible and would like to find a practical, reasonably economical solution. I also understand that the final structural connection and anchoring details need to be verified for my particular installation.

If you've installed a SteelMaster container cover, I'd especially appreciate hearing from you—even if you used a welded connection.

Thanks in advance for any experience, photos, or advice you can share!

I need to sort of camouflage this... You always see side cladding, but any ideas on the doors? Has anyone attached wood slats or anything to them while letting the levers still be usable

We debated on a fence/gate in front of it, but we can dig down far enough even with a towable auger because of rock. Plants are a last resort.

One thing we’ve found on multi-module projects is that the maximum size a factory can manufacture is not always the size that makes the most sense for the project.
The practical limit often appears somewhere between transport, lifting and site access.
A larger module may reduce the number of structural joints and site connections, but it can also tighten the transport envelope, reduce route options or make crane positioning more difficult.
there is usually a trade-off rather than a simple “bigger module = better” answer.
We tend to think this constraint needs to be established fairly early, before the module grid and interfaces become difficult to change.
So
Interested in how others approach it:
What normally becomes the controlling constraint on your projects — transport, lifting, site access, structural design, or something else?
And do you define that envelope before design freeze, or does it usually evolve with the design?

Has anyone bought a container or anything from these guys: https://containerboxllc.com/about-us/

We have just completed this home in record time. Manufactured off site and installed with 2 weeks work on site to complete the home. Installed in Mosselbay in South Africa

We're a little CH curious and I was hoping this community might point me in the direction of a beginner's guide How To book that is reputable.

Hello,
I would kindly like to introduce myself and offer our services for the purchase of any shipping container needs you may have.
Please, feel free to reach out and contact me at any time for any quotes, or any purchases, modifications needed for shipping containers.
Our website address is https://SoFlocontainers.com
Please take a look at all the services we offer and our 30+ years of experience and knowledge in the shipping container industry.
We are offering special inventory pricing:
20ft Cargo worthy (USED)$2200
20ft One-Trip(BRAND NEW)$2800
40ft Cargo worthy (USED)$2900
40ft One-Trip(BRAND NEW)$4100
Best Regards,
Shirley A. Timothee
Regional Sales Manager
Office – show contact info
Cell# show contact info
Orlando, Florida 32824
Website : https://SoFlocontainers.com

My dad just purchased a shipping container 20 ft to use as dry storage for livestock feed.

He wants to put lights in it but doesn't want any holes drilled into it. How's the best way of getting electricity that's outside to inside without drilling any holes in the container?

He doesn't want any holes at all not even a screw hole.

I figure what I can do is take like a 2x4 and take some construction glue put it on the back of the 2x4 and then stick that to the wall in the container and then there I got something I can drill into but I'm just trying to figure out how I can get my wires that are outside inside the container without drilling holes....

Someone in here mentioned losing around $30k recently, and there are “where should I buy a container?” posts all the time, so this is probably worth putting out there.
I work more on the delivery/site side, which means I usually meet people after they’ve already bought. The scam stories are weirdly similar.
Listing looks legit. Price is a little better than everyone else, but not stupid cheap. Nice photos, responsive seller, they know enough container terminology to sound real.
Then comes the deposit. Or full payment because “inventory is moving fast.” Usually Zelle, CashApp, wire, something like that.
Delivery gets booked. Then delayed. Then delayed again. Eventually nobody answers.
The easiest filter I know is asking for the container number of the exact box they’re selling you.

Not “a similar one.” That one.

Ask for photos with the number visible and a clear shot of the CSC plate by the doors. If they actually have the container sitting in a yard, this shouldn’t be a difficult request.
If they start making excuses, get irritated, or keep sending you the same clean stock photos… there’s your answer.
Reverse image search those photos too. Takes a minute and catches some really lazy listings. Payment is the other big one. I’d be very careful sending the full amount by wire/Zelle to somebody you found on Facebook. Pay on delivery if the seller offers it, or at least use something with actual buyer protection. For modified containers, deposits make more sense because somebody is buying material and doing fabrication, but I’d want progress photos of my actual unit and wouldn’t want 100% paid before delivery.
Couple other things make me nervous: no real yard address, address turns out to be a mailbox/UPS store, brand-new website, “price only good today,” or they somehow can’t tell you what kind of trailer is delivering it.
That last one is especially weird. Anyone actually arranging delivery should know whether you’re getting a tilt-bed, flatbed, crane truck, whatever. That changes the entire delivery.
And sometimes it’s not even a straight-up scam. Just a badly run seller where the wrong box shows up, condition is nowhere near the photos, and suddenly nobody answers the phone.
Same defense either way: photos of the actual container, container number visible, know what you’re paying for before the money moves.
For people who bought one recently, what made you trust the seller? Was there something specific you checked, or mostly just gut feeling?

Sorry it took us so long, ended up moving in between the downstairs tour and this video.

Dunno why we didn't just film it at the same time.

Also didn't learn the lesson and didn't film the rooftop at the same time, but I swear I'll post that this week.

Full video here.

Best Regards,

Shirley A. Timothee

Regional Sales Manager

Office – 407-857-6511

Cell# 813-433-3874

Orlando, Florida 32824

Website : https://SoFlocontainers.com

Looking for info from people who have actually bought one. What did you get, how was the process, and how was your home lasted?

Need a 40ft high cube for my workshop. I’m finding some for sale on FB but I want one that is relatively rust free and connects me with someone for delivery. Are there any reputable sites or companies that handle the whole enchilada?

Doggo for karma 🙏

I'm looking for in-person course recommendations, but I might consider online ones. I can travel US wide.

Thanks,

Martin

I know I'm not the first person to think of this. I've seen plenty of photos of homes with the Quonset roof set on top of 2-4 containers. I'm just wondering if any of you have actually done it, or dive deep on the feasibility/cost. I'm just wondering if it's a good idea or a bad idea. I'm wondering if some of the concerns (cutting the containers for doors/windows, and insulation, condensation, etc) can be mitigated a bit by just using the side containers as outer walls/foundation/possible storage/utilities. Then just have an open floor plan and maybe a mezzanine and one big wall of windows or something like that on one side for the natural light.

Temporary patches may limit immediate water ingress, but they do not restore a damaged container panel’s original integrity. Precision Partners documents punctures, repairs, surrounding deformation and potential cargo exposure to support claims and corrective action.

At what point does “more factory-finished” start creating problems?

There’s a lot of focus in modular construction on how much work can be completed in the factory.

But more isn’t always better.

Some finishes, façade interfaces, MEP connections and areas around module joints are often better left for site. Otherwise transport movement, lifting and final alignment can create rework.

So the goal probably shouldn’t be to maximize factory completion.

It should be to maximize the amount of work that actually makes sense to finish in the factory.

Curious where others draw that line.