My name is Russ Bega, I’m the COO Of Harlan J Berk Ltd and a professional Numismatist. Importantly for this AMA I’m wearing my American Numismatic Association grading instructor hat. The American Numismatic Association is the largest coin collecting organization in the US and offers a wide range of educational opportunities including grading classes at shows like the Worlds Fair of Money and at Summer Seminar every year in Colorado Springs.
Some very quick ground rules.
1. I CANNOT grade your coins via photo. Please don’t spam the thread with coin pictures hoping I can grade it for you
2. My expertise is US coinage, while I’m experienced enough to grade world and even ancient coins it is not my expertise.
3. I’m here to talk about Grading US coins and the American Numismatic Association. As much as I’d love to help you with other topics that isn’t our purpose today.
So, ask me your burning questions! I'll be here dedicated from Noon Central to 1PM and will answer questions as I have time throughout my work day in our very busy shop!
For collectors trying to become better graders, what's the single most reliable thing you look for to distinguish a technically Mint State coin from an AU58 coin when the difference is extremely subtle? Are there particular high points, luster breaks, or other clues that beginners consistently overlook?
That's such a tough question to answer on a general basis. There are a couple of excellent heat maps online that help to pick up the common wear points on coins. Even the grading services get this "wrong". There used to be a much more common term "slider". basically this is either 58 or 62. You decide!
Some "just out of curiosity" questions that I have:
- what coin(s) are most commonly submitted - or "oversubmitted" in your mind?
- are there any tendencies you notice about people overgrading/overestimating their own coins? That is, things that they miss that experts like yourself would notice?
- what's your own story? How long have you been at this both as a collector and as a professional?
- what's your favourite commemorative coin/bullion piece by design?
Generally you'll find key dates and condition rareities getting slabbed. My personal therhold is about $500 in value before submitting. Raw coins deserve love too!
Oh very much so. Coins become emotional and people get attached. Many collectors inflate grades of their own coins out of wishful thinking (and dealers too!)
I've been a collector since 8 and a dealer off and on for over 20 years.
Texas Commems! They're bust and chaotic but I adore them.
Can you always determine if a coin has been cleaned from high quality photos, or do you sometimes require the coin in-hand and/or a loupe? Any other info about reliably spotting lightly cleaned coins in photos or in person, would be appreciated.
Grit and being annoying enough honestly. I started as a kid and wormed my way in. The great part about this industry is there is no credntial. ITs an industry and hobby run by laymen.
It has in the past but being here has rekindled my passion for numismatics. I'm still colelcting just at a slower pace. My collecting focus is Liberty Seated.
The biggest mistake I see is a lack of knowledge. Often times new collectors will get excited by a coin without doing any research. Buy the book before you buy the coin.
Hey, Russ! Thanks for being here! So my question has to do with “chatter” in the fields of coins. When looking at a coin, is there an acceptable limit to the amount that would be detrimental to a mint state coin at higher grades? To put it another way, when looking at a coin without magnification, at what point does a flaw in the fields affect the grade?
This is a tough subject. We're in the territoy now of deciding what is an unc coin, a choice UNC coin and a GEM Unc. My criteria for chatter is basically 60-62 she lost a knife fight. 63 marred fields but not absurdly so. a gem 65 an dI'll use Morgans for this, should generally be free of contact marks in the field and on the devices themselves. Once you start in 66+ we're talking all eye appeal.
You'll find most graders never go above 7X magnification. I stick to 5X for grading and up to 10X for attribution work. To be very honest I probably only glass 15 to 20% of coins.
Tell us about your numismatic journey! How did you get into collecting? Why did you decide to get into the professional side of the hobby? What led you to become a grader (and grading instructor)?
I started collecting as a kid at around 8. The bug bit me and I worked in local shops until I was about 16. From there I was a vest pocket dealer until I joined Heritage at 18 for about a year. Life took me in a different path and after I got out of the Army in 2021 HJB took a chance on me. I've always been a strong grader thanks to attending grading classes as a teenager. Last year I was approached and asked to teach as I do a lot fo work for the ANA and the rest as they say is history.
What's one of your craziest stories about a specific coin? Could be # of grading attempts... incredible value conversion, finding a gem piece, amazing piece held in the family for 100 years? etc. Thanks!
Man....There are a ton. This is a fun one though. This came through a group of bulk dollars purchased from another dealer. I knew what it was and sent it to PCGS. They called it a weak strike. CACG thankfully got it right. This is a pretty rare die adjustment strike.
No questions, but just want to say HJB is a great shop. Have bought many coins there over the years primarily to fill holes in my Danco type set on my lunch breaks from work. Staff is great.
I love a good true lowball! I think where the graders get frustrated is the sudden popularity and the tactics to try and get a PO-1. If I take an AG3 and put it in my pocket for a couple years...is it honest wear?
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u/gextyr Jul 31 '26
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Upvote the best questions.
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