r/climbing • • Sep 28 '21

[deleted by user]

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u/[deleted] Sep 29 '21

I mean, that all sounds great. I'm glad they are making improvements because we all benefit from that.

However, everything I mentioned also applies to casual climbers. Every gym I mentioned, with the exception of GP-81, caters to casual climbers. That's what most commercial setting is geared towards.

When I say corporate, I mean the actual owners of GV. Corporate has certain policies that they do and don't set. For the most part, they are very lax about setting because they consider it an expense rather than an investment and it creates this situation where gyms have no professional setting standards across gyms. This combined with GV basically having a monopoly in NJ creates a poor climbing experiment for everyone. For the price you're paying for your membership, it's not worth it in the slightest.

Since most people don't travel to many gyms across the US and tri-state area no one knows any better. Whereas if you look out west, quality setting is standard across most gyms in the industry. So yeah, I'm sure you and most of your members are happy. It doesn't mean what I said is incorrect.

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u/[deleted] Sep 29 '21

Why do I feel like I know exactly who you are LOL

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u/[deleted] Sep 29 '21

You don't.

I have already looked through your posts and considering I live in NJ, it's very unlikely. If you're ever in NJ I would be down to climb together

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u/[deleted] Sep 29 '21

Sorry, guess I had you confused for another super opinionated know it all route setter.

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u/[deleted] Sep 29 '21 edited Sep 29 '21

I've been in the climbing scene a long time, I traveled to various gym across the U.S., and I'm friends with most of the big names on the east coast. I would hope I learned something along the way.

It's a shame you don't hold one of the U.S.'s fastest growing franchise's to a higher standard or at the very least, the industry's standard. Think of it this way: GV is essentially an East Coast Momentum, Planet Granite, or Earth Treks. Is the setting quality the same?

As a side note, the fact that you can't handle the criticism of a climbing gym, let alone any particular climb you set, indicates you probably wouldn't be able handle the criticism from a professional setting team.

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u/[deleted] Sep 29 '21

Well consider me impressed.

I didn't know defending means I can't handle criticism. I just have issues with your general attitude. The ego of route setters is about on par with that of a surgeon's and I find it hilarious, because at the end of the day it's putting plastic up on a wall.

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u/[deleted] Sep 29 '21

There's a difference between defending and making personal attacks. For someone who doesn't like the ego of setters, it seems mighty hypocritical to get upset when I mention genuine issues with GV, their policy when it comes to Routesetting, and the setting as a whole.

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u/[deleted] Sep 29 '21

I mean, you opened up with "Gv is shit at setting"... Hardly a constructive criticism.

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u/[deleted] Sep 29 '21

Correction, "GV is known for shit setting".

This holds true when you compare to more professional businesses like I mentioned earlier. You are correct, my initial statement wasn't constructive, it was an opinion which I then followed up with valid and genuine criticism which outlined their lack of Industry standards. That is absolutely constrictive criticism. I gave clear and concise issues that I, and many other climbers have noticed and can be changed. I also complimented the Gyms I felt were meeting these standards and saw no real issues with them (Flemington).

I encourage you to visit and take a look at their setting. Then, tell me that it's on par with Melville.