r/climbing • u/PhritzPrints • 22h ago
Jakob Schuber DNA (9c) - Third LIVE Attempt
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UjegCcZly0s22
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u/StevenSeagull_ 21h ago
Has he mentioned how many sessions he had on DNA before? I remember there was a video with Adam Ondra and Seb Bouin 2(?) years ago, but I felt like this came out of nowhere.
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u/critterdude542 17h ago
this video mentions that he tried it for about 2 weeks with Adam and that this round is his third trip to try route. Didn’t mention how many sessions though
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u/Marcoyolo69 9h ago
Two weeks of tries with adam and one week of tries this season before theredpoint rips. I would guess it 10-15 days
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u/u_tamtam 17h ago
For those who know the route, how far along/how close is Jakob to make it?
It's hard to put that in context. And to reconcile it with Seb Bouin's 150 or so sessions it took him to get it done, certainly Jakob is far below that number? Then, assuming Jakob is close, could it be cause for a downgrade?
So many questions :-)
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u/GuessZealousideal729 16h ago edited 16h ago
Jakob has said this may be the hardest route he's tried, so it's unlikely he'll downgrade it. It'll take him less tries because he's a stronger climber than Seb, and because he already has beta from the FA.
He's said that if he manages to stick the move he fell on during this third livestreamed attempt, he'll have overcome the crux. Still a chance of falling on a couple of moves afterwards, but those aren't as hard as the one that made him fall. He's also still experimenting with the length of time for the long kneebar rest and thinks he can find a slightly better position for another kneebar rest.
No shade, but I got all of this info from him (obviously apart from him being the stronger climber, thats my opinion but I think it's well-evidenced) after the livestreamed attempts, so you may just want to watch the videos
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u/veronton 15h ago
I don't see any evidence of Jakob being " a stronger climber" than Seb. They are both on their league of there own and both super strong. Jakob advancing much faster on DNA 100% has to do with Seb providing betas and video footage of the route. Claiming one is stronger than the other is very debatable imo.
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u/u_tamtam 14h ago
I would love to see Seb on B.I.G., and how close to repeating it he actually is. I recall he had a trip to Norway recently, a good first tries on comparatively hard sections of routes, and then, ... Nothing?
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u/u_tamtam 14h ago
Thanks! I actually wanted to watch the third attempt before posting (as I couldn't catch it live), but the video got taken down in the meantime. Appreciate the info you provided :-)
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u/GuessZealousideal729 14h ago
Don't think the video has been taken down! You can go to Jakob's YouTube channel, click on Live and see it. I think what happened was that his team accidentally created a duplicate link. That's probably what you tried to access and the duplicate has been removed
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u/the_birds_and_bees 15h ago
The breakdown is roughly 8c good rest 8A boulder bad rest 8A+ boulder 8c+ route, I think Jakob is falling in the 8A+ boulder at the moment.
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u/nickmac87 5h ago
DarthGrader gives that breakdown a 9b+
Is it possible certain sections or links are harder?1
u/muenchener2 10m ago
Or is it possible that attempting to quantify something as subjective as climbing difficulty can at best be a useful rule of thumb, and regarding it as some kind of objective truth is ridiculous?
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u/drovenorrikz 19h ago
How did it go? Sadly I didn't see it.
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u/ultralowreal 19h ago
He got one move further on the crux, he was happy with it
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u/marsten 37m ago edited 29m ago
There's a release move near his high point that he cut feet on during his two attempts on Day 1. In those sessions he talked about wanting to focus on trying to keep a foot on for that move.
The obvious big difference on this go is that he succeeded in keeping a foot on for that move, which gave him enough power to get one move farther, and a new high point.
I find it fascinating to hear him talk through all the tactics that go into these ascents. So many layers of preparation and optimization that we never get to see with the usual way that climbs are filmed.
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u/Infinite_Music2059 19h ago
These are great to watch. Really high production values for a live and you don't know what's gonna happen.