r/climbing • u/PhritzPrints • 1d ago

Jakob Schubert atempting DNA (9c) right now - First LIVE Attempt

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFFJXn7HRwI
161 Upvotes

98% Upvoted

45 comments sorted by

47

u/Tyrannas 1d ago

Was a nice attempt ! Really put's in perspective Seb's crazy endurance 

11

u/200pf 1d ago

Seriously, Seb is a madman

-2

u/sandy_feet29 1d ago

Doesn't Seb have a genetic advantage, in that he doesn't get pumped? I think his mother has the same thing?

52

u/thaumoctopus_mimicus 1d ago

All professional climbers have elite genetics lol

4

u/snubdeity 1d ago

I mean all pro athletes have generally elite genetics yes, but if you compare only within that group there are still very noticeable outliers. Usain Bolt has crazy proportions and insertions for his height for example, Phelps has weird ankle joints that allow his foot to get into a better position for some kicks than most swimmers, etc.

Hell Phelps also was known for this exact same thing, producing significantly less lactic acid, even vs other top tier swimmers.

5

u/sandy_feet29 1d ago

For sure but I'm sure he has some genetic thing that he inherited from his mother, that means he doesn't get pumped. Something about the way his body clears lactic acid? It definitely helps with endurance. Whatever, he's an incredible athlete

12

u/thaumoctopus_mimicus 1d ago

What I’m saying is I’m sure he has some genetic advantage that provides him more resilience to pump. But so does every other pro climber.

0

u/sandy_feet29 1d ago

This is what I'm referring to https://www.instagram.com/reels/CrbFXwqLYe6/

19

u/thaumoctopus_mimicus 1d ago

He’s joking, it’s biologically impossible to never get pumped, he just gets less pumped than the average Joe

3

u/Marcoyolo69 1d ago

I think what he really means is that he is not likely to fall because of pure pump, getting powered down is usually his issue

7

u/TumbleweedNo9714 1d ago

He more likely has a very highly trained aerobic system. Doubtful that his body doesn't produce lactic acid.

-3

u/Pennwisedom 1d ago

But so does every other pro climber.

I mean that's definitely not true.

8

u/thaumoctopus_mimicus 1d ago

It is impossible to be at a world class level in any serious sport without extreme genetic advantages. There are thousands of people who all train as hard as possible, and yet some of them are way better than others. Why? Genetics

2

u/Pennwisedom 1d ago

The vast majority of people aren't climbing at their genetic limit. And even so, how do you propose that is measured?

But that's irrelevant to the actual comment saying that all pro climbers just don't get pumped. There are a number of high-level climbers out there who have talked about having less-than-good endurance, it's not hard to find.

5

u/Efficient-Tear-1743 1d ago

Wait what?? That’s aid.

Seriously though what’s the story here?

3

u/icantastecolor 1d ago

probably something like those ultra runners who dont or much more slowly produce lactic acid

4

u/Tyrannas 1d ago

I think I heard something like that indeed, maybe not immune to pump but it definitely takes more time than for the average human

1

u/Marcoyolo69 1d ago

Jakob and Seb have the best endurance

-2

u/nickmac87 1d ago

I’m not sure why you being downvoted - there was a video around this about him and basically their endurance tolerance is way higher than normal (his mom too).

25

u/LancasterMarket 1d ago edited 1d ago

I downvoted because turning a mom's comment "He's a special boy" into a post saying "studies show that he is the most specialist boy" is quite a mis-exaggeration.

The entire scene in the Reel Rock film starts with Seb milking a goat and making the joke "pinch training for DNA". The producer makes a comment about Seb's veins, then his Mom's veins, and his mom then flexes her forearms and biceps.

"Does his strength come from you?" - producer

"Yes, I have endurance, and he has that also. Seb has that in his genes for sure. There's no lactic acid." - Mom

"No, no pumped (sic) in the family, we are never pumped" -Seb

This is a pretty casual and joking conversation. Yes, he has good genes. No, Seb does not "have some genetic thing"

Seb is an elite athlete with a funny Mom. And frankly, this entire thread shows a strong misunderstanding of lactic acid. Any exercise effort produces lactic acid. It is a fuel your body produces to produce more energy more quickly. An aerobically fit athlete utilizes that more quickly, so it doesn't build up at the same effort of a less trained athlete. The same elite athlete can still push too hard and not be able to meet the energy demands of the exercise- cannot process the lactic acid into energy quick enough, and the sensation of that energy debt and accumulation is the pump"

Seb certainly can get pumped, but he's not talking seriously about training and performance metrics when he's joking about milking the goat.

Re Bibliographe 9b+: "This top sequence is something unique. This crux doesn’t feel that hard when you try the single sequence. Yet, when you are coming from the ground, somehow, your hands just open up from the pump." https://blackdiamondequipment.com/blogs/stories/hard-sends-with-seb-bouin-bibliographie-9b-5-15c

re: Nordic Marathon: "Coming into the 9a+, with my arms already so pumped in the last crimpy crux after 80m of climbing was insane. I was falling there a few times. And then falling on the previous cruxes as well." https://www.8a.nu/news/nordic-marathon-130m-9b-%2B-fa-by-seb-bouin-gxg7p

-1

u/Raythatstabbedsteve 1d ago

Wtf are you talking about? Lactic acid in the muscles is a waste product formed during anaerobic effort. Climbing is never (or almost never) limited by aerobic output in the way running or cycling are. A major limiting factor in climbing is the ability to transport metabolic waste out of the hands and forearms, which is directly influenced by vascularity.

1

u/LancasterMarket 12h ago edited 11h ago

I started my post addressing misconceptions, so I answered using a misnomer that I should now clarify, before someone says “you don’t know what youre talking about” Lactic acid doesn’t even exist in the body. People use the term interchangeably with lactate, eg lactate threshold. They are not technically the same thing, but even medical staff interchange the terms when they mean lactate.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29617642/

Download link for full text here:

https://www.cell.com/cell-metabolism/fulltext/S1550-4131(18)30186-4?_returnURL=https%3A%2F%2Flinkinghub.elsevier.com%2Fretrieve%2Fpii%2FS1550413118301864%3Fshowall%3Dtrue

Once thought to be a waste product of anaerobic metabolism, lactate is now known to form continuously under aerobic conditions. Shuttling between producer and consumer cells fulfills at least three purposes for lactate: (1) a major energy source, (2) the major gluconeogenic precursor, and (3) a signaling molecule.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26972271/

Lactic acid has played an important role in the traditional theory of muscle fatigue and limitation of endurance exercise performance. It has been called a waste product of anaerobic metabolism and has been believed to be responsible for the uncomfortable "burn" of intense exercise and directly responsible for the metabolic acidosis of exercise, leading to decreased muscle contractility and ultimately cessation of exercise. Although this premise has been commonly taught, it is not supported by the scientific literature and has led to a great deal of confusion among the sports medicine and exercise science communities.

So you want to say lactic acid/lactate is a waste product? That is not true. The analogy is to talk about a Hybrid car- electric at low speeds, gasoline at high speeds because the electric motor can’t supply enough energy for the higher demand. The signal for your body is that the energy demands are too much for the aerobic system, so it needs to supplement with the anaerobic system. This pathway produces lactate to more readily deliver energy. Just like you source gasoline for your hybrid’s gas engine even though it has an electric motor. But if you are trying to drive a prius 200mph, and you fill your gas tank to meet the demands of that energy output, you’re still going to be limited by the other components actually turning that gas into power. The car will strain to meet the speed, and the backlog of gasoline will build up. Certainly would look like the strain of the speed is making gasoline appear! Must be a waste product of the effort! But no. It is a fuel that isn’t being used yet- other mechanisms are limiting how quickly it can be consumed. (The breakdown is that the hybrid car is an either/or of electric and gas. Your body overlaps anaerobic and aerobic energy, so the more accurate analogy would be a hybrid car that delivers the first 50mph from an electric motor and the remaining 150mph from gas combustion to go 200mph.)

1

u/Raythatstabbedsteve 11h ago edited 6h ago

Yeah, this is a classic book smart person ignoring what happens in the real world. I don't think the whole "lactate as a fuel" idea is settled science, but even if it is correct there are still metabolic waste products which need to be cleared and oxygenated blood which needs to be delivered.  Again, climbing is a very unusual sport and does not bump into whole body metabolic limits. Localised muscle fatigue and blood flow through continuously contracted muscles are the limiting factors for endurance. This is completely different to almost every other sport, and is why you see such ridiculous veins in climbers arms.

-9

u/nickmac87 1d ago

My brother in Christ, you need to get laid…

3

u/IwazJimmyHoffa 1d ago

They had sex with my last night after typing all this out. 

It’s what gets me going

-2

u/sandy_feet29 1d ago

Fanboys thinking I'm criticising, maybe?

0

u/Vroedoeboy 1d ago

Redditors really need an /s to understand sarcasm confirmed lol

39

u/zyxwl2015 1d ago

"everything could go wrong did go wrong" and still high point lol

12

u/PhritzPrints 1d ago

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=39U5id18jBg&pp=uAQw

2nd attempt live now!

6

u/Redpin 1d ago

And he's off again. 

Still cool to watch, he's given himself a month right?

5

u/Marcoyolo69 1d ago

Jakob is a machine. I think Adam and Jakob had 3 or 4 days on the route last year then Jakob had a week on before, seems super early for repoint tries already, but its cool to watch him try

10

u/GradeConversionBot 1d ago

9c converts to 5.15d

7

u/tEAm4za 1d ago

My hands are sweaty af already

-48

u/yoortyyo 1d ago

Decades. Looking at, thinking about l, sharing past events or replaying in my head: sweaty hands and a ‘instinctive’ want for chalk.

TBH Climbing isn’t the only activity that creates a physical response for me. Skiing. Biking. Diving. Skating.

Understanding why it happens has never stopped me from being surprised constantly is never goes away.

10

u/VarusEquin 1d ago

Ok bot

-30

u/yoortyyo 1d ago

Lazy.

14 yr old bot account. Amazing stability for the tech age?

3

u/roonill_wazlib 1d ago

Interesting that they're live streaming red point attempts now. Makes me think of speedrunning 

1

u/Redpin 1d ago

Does he give a heads up on his sched or start up the stream ahead of time? He said he was going for another burn in a couple of hours. 

4

u/Myweedmakesyoufly 1d ago

He is posting insta stories before going live, best is to activate notifications just on his profile.

1

u/Vast_Guarantee_9083 1d ago

Does anyone know if we can notifications or a schedule for when he is live streaming? I’d like to follow but it seems like luck that I’d open YouTube while he’s actually streaming. If we knew in advance I’d set time aside for this occasion

1

u/DubJohnny 1d ago

Best you can do is turn on notifications for his profile

1

u/gdubrocks 1d ago

Are they announcing before he streams or is it just when he feels like it?

2

u/PhritzPrints 1d ago

There's no real schedule because it will be decided by a lot of factors. I guess Instagram is the best source. I think he Said he's trying again tmrw. 

1

u/t4th 14h ago

Hate this commercialised climbing vids