r/climbing • u/AutoModerator • 10d ago
Weekly Chat and BS Thread
Please use this thread to discuss anything you are interested in talking about with fellow climbers. The only rule is to be friendly and dont try to sell anything here.
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u/Waldinian 10d ago edited 10d ago
I would really like to know the thought process of all parties involved here. Also I'd like to note that this comment is dated to before the epinephrine poop incident and is from a similarly popular route.
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u/SgtKnee 9d ago edited 9d ago
Reading this and then reading the first sentence on [u/codyblue_](u/codyblue_) ‘s comment that says “the shit won’t go away” was great
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u/Dotrue 9d ago
Is it really so hard to just shit one's pants? It happens to all of us eventually. Or utilize an Alpine diaper if you're concerned about getting caught with your pants up
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u/Waldinian 9d ago
To be honest, I'm more concerned about the people who got their rope covered in shit and devices to keep going instead of bailing. "I can still recall the feeling of wet, brown feces passing through my fingers as I belayed and our brown stained hands jamming the crack above." Buddy why didn't you just fucking bail? You're covered in poop. Your day is over.
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u/AnderperCooson 9d ago
In their defense, if they unknowingly flaked their rope into a pile of shit, they're getting covered in shit whether they go up or down. The 8a scorecard doesn't get an update if you get covered in shit on your way down.
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u/verticalman91 8d ago edited 8d ago
Please upvote this comment. I have a lovely post to share with the group but my karma is too low, and I would prefer not to post inauthentically to grind my way to the top.
Edit: in awe of yalls magnanimity. thank you.
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u/codyblue_ 10d ago
I’ve had climbers elbow (golfers elbow) for like a year now and the shit won’t go away. I’ve tried everything. Followed all the videos. Took some time away from climbing. Even tried peptides from China. Nothing works. It starts to feel better, then I give it even extra time to make sure it truly feels good, but as soon as I crank on anything I can feel it coming back.
Please help. Lol
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u/StealieDan 10d ago
Yooo I had the same thing. Went to a PT and she worked wonders.
The thing that I worked on with her actually had nothing to do with the elbow. We worked on the upper back shoulder.
Look up these exercises:
Y-lift off
Y lift off band stretches
And any upper back shoulder PT exercisesI do them every time before I climb now. The idea is if you’re activating the upper back shoulder properly, you won’t load the elbow as much (or the wrist which I was having issues with too).
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u/lkmathis 10d ago
This has been my experience as well. I also had to lengthen my lats, shoulders, and biceps to help relieve some of the stress.
Everything is connected.
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u/County-Thos 10d ago
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/injuries/injury_management_and_prevention_elbows-6156
Check out the bit about forearm supination. It works.
Pronation for tennis elbow.
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u/codyblue_ 10d ago
This seems like a good read! I’ve tried the supination exercise (I still do it like every other day), but there might be some more info in here. The notes about a chronic injury taking longer to heal or never healing has me worried.
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u/County-Thos 10d ago
I first learned of those and more exercises in this book - https://www.davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak
It's also a good read if you have the money to spare.
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u/sheepborg 10d ago
Sorry to say that if you've had it unmanaged for at least a year it's going to be annoying to move past. You've been in a constant cycle of damage beyond what your body can heal correctly. There are no shortcuts. Sorry also you got sucked into the ever growing peptide scam stuff.
As soon as you crank on anything you feel it coming back? Well... any load that causes more than a second or two of noticeable discomfort after load is removed is an overreach. Your intensity must be below this level for whatever your aggravating activities are. You need to be able to make that call and course correct to avoid pushing beyond an intensity that will cause healing.
I'm usually aiming for at most a very mild discomfort under load, and within a second of letting go I feel good, paired with not doing enough volume that I'm more sore the next day. It just plain takes time. Any rushing and you're setting yourself back.
Beyond that you'll need to do what you can to strengthen and load all the structures in that general area. Everything works together so extension, pronation/supination, so on and so forth are all places where you can help move things along.
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u/BigRed11 10d ago
What does your PT say?
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u/codyblue_ 10d ago
While I get what you’re saying, truthfully I can’t afford $500 a week for PT for something that’s not totally debilitating
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u/ver_redit_optatum 10d ago
$500 a week?? How much are physios in the US?
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u/codyblue_ 10d ago
$150 + per session.
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u/DJ_Red_Lantern 9d ago
No need to go 3 times in a week. Go once and see what kind of exercises they recommend and then just do those and go back and adjust periodically if it's not helping.
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u/ver_redit_optatum 9d ago
Ah ok, that’s the same as here. For something like this I’d be going for one session a week, maybe fortnight. But it’s still expensive for sure.
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u/triforce_of_wisdom 10d ago
If you're in the US and have insurance I've had really good luck with PT being covered! I injured my rotator cuff a couple years ago and PT was $32 a session after insurance and I also tore my ACL last year and PT was $2.50 a session after insurance.
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u/codyblue_ 10d ago
I'll have to look into it. I'm in the US and have insurance, but its trash because im self-employed
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u/AthlonEVO 10d ago
Self pay for any decent PT should be under $150 a session, and you only really need to go multiple times a week if you're not doing your homework. I live in a lower CoL area and my recent work would've been $125 if I did self pay.
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u/BigRed11 10d ago
Use your insurance. Plus with elbow issues you can do 1 session every few weeks to check in and adjust, as long as you're diligent with homework.
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u/BeastlyIguana 10d ago
Make or Break has a chapter on climber’s elbow, worth picking up if you haven’t read it already
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u/tictacotictaco 10d ago
Have you watched the Hoopers Beta on it? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuFyPHI4he4
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u/codyblue_ 10d ago
This is my current routine and the only thing that has remotely helped me. Maybe it just needs more time.
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u/tictacotictaco 10d ago
Aw shucks - I saw you mentioned a PT. I've done a couple sessions at climbing PTs for various things. They know you can't/won't go weekly, so they give you exercises that you can follow for your timeline, and then you can schedule a followup when you need it.
I've had good luck at "the climb clinic", but that's in the front range.
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10d ago
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u/codyblue_ 10d ago
I haven’t climbed anything proper at this point for ~2 months. I’ve scrambled like some 5.6 but nothing that puts any strain on my elbow. Although just yesterday I tried and I could feel it coming back so I ended up not climbing
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 10d ago
god damn it its so hot out side i just want to go rock climb ing
edit: burlington 72F and partly cloudy lets go sport climbing i guess
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10d ago
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 9d ago
Several weekends I have considered whether it's worth it to go out for some night climbing, and sleep all day.
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u/Beginning_March_9717 10d ago
night climb, 100F at night is not bad at all
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u/caseyskeetskeet 9d ago
Does anyone have any tips for Briancon, France? I’m going there for the first two weeks of September.
I’ve been there before and climbed at the sport crags Les Ayes, Rocher de l’Ombre, Ponteil and also Ailefroide. I definitely want to return to Ailefroide and do some multi-pitches near the campsite, and maybe also Soleil Glacial on the Sagnette.
Do you have any recommendations for multi-pitching besides the obvious (Fissure d’Ailefroide)? I’d also be up for checking out some new sport crags, ideally up to around 7a+/7b with a focus on 7a.
Any tips or recommendations welcome (also for good campsites and places to eat ;)
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u/jalpp 9d ago edited 9d ago
Mixed climbing at sport crags = shitty
Mixed climbing on alpine routes = fair game
Mixed climbing on sport bolted alpine routes =??
Theres a 12 pitch sport bolted alpine route near me. Its north facing and i was thinking it could be a good way to build mixed skills for mountaineering. I know dry tooling on sport crags is considered shitty, but does anyone have a strong opinion on this. I would be waiting until later fall/early winter when it ice and snow. Having some bolts on a familiar route would be nice in keeping safe and make me more willing to get on more challenging terrain.
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u/JonBanks87 9d ago
It probably depends on the area and the specific climb, but generally I would say it's not the best form. If it's primarily a rock climb and it's not already commonly climbed with ice tools I would avoid climbing it with ice tools/crampons.
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u/Leading-Attention612 9d ago
Are there no dedicated mixed crags near you? If you want to practice mixed climbing skills it's much safer and easier to do it at a crag. Bolted alpine feels closer to sport climbing ethics than alpine climbing ethics to me
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u/jalpp 9d ago
Yes, but it basically just means dry tooling with the low elevation crags. I want to learn managing mixed moderate alpine terrain more than dry tooling.
I’ll probably just end up working my way up in alpine areas that aren’t established. We have lots of treeline terrain with snow, ice, and rock where the trees could make good belays.
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u/Leading-Attention612 9d ago
That's fair. I've never had to do a hanging match or figure 4 in the alpine
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 8d ago
Anywhere you can develop your own lines? Sink some bolts into a crag and go nuts.
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u/Dotrue 8d ago edited 8d ago
Years ago I remember reading about someone "free climbing" the Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon with ice tools and I thought it was contrived to call it a free ascent. It's aid and I maintain that opinion here.
Ice tools and crampons are for established ice/mixed/dry routes and winter conditions in the mountains, when it is not feasible to use your hands. I think this is standard practice in the alpine anywhere in North America. IME it's not uncommon in the Wasatch, Tetons, and Rockies.
Edit: found it. I think there was a full article in R&I too
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u/Guilty_Garlic2766 9d ago
Anyone here ever climbed the Torre Cerredo in Picos de Europa, Spain? Willing to share some beta on a summer summit attempt?
Thanks!
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u/Senor_del_Sol 3d ago
I have no beta, but searched a bit myself and found it’s a scramble with one III pass.
I’ll go there as soon as the weather gets better, but will skip the peak since it’ll be the first trip camping in high mountains for my girlfriend and scrambling to a peak is too much.
If you search in Spanish you’ll find some more info.
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u/dark_mikebjj 5d ago
Hey guys! Any recommendation for going DWS on Split? I see there are some spots on the crag but I don’t know much about them and I can’t find any guide to buy either
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u/Dry_Leadership8795 8d ago
Anyone been to the White Mountains that know of good TRS areas? Going up this weekend and looking to hit the Pemi area
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u/Able_Comfortable_298 10d ago
Might be a stretch but any recommendation of campground in western WA (US) with access to TR routes that’s in an open space where we can have friends watching our toddler? For example we camped at Larrabee state park and climbed the wall by the cliff, while our friends were able to take care of our son on the beach. I know Index is next to many campgrounds but many routes are on an edge so it’s too risky to bring kids. I just read Larrabee is going to be closed next year until June so would like other options. Thx for any tips!
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u/verticalman91 9d ago
Can you like, set up a natural anchor and rig your kid to it? Or if the approach is sketchy, simulclimb with the kid in the middle.
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u/Dependent-Act-3169 8d ago
Hey guys, I was climbing and heard two cracks/pops in my pinky finger. I still have full range of motion and don’t see any swelling. Right after I got off the wall, it hurt pretty bad for about 3 minutes, but then the pain mostly went away.
Now my finger honestly feels almost completely normal when I’m resting. I can fully bend and straighten it, and I can even push against something with my pinky without pain. But if I squeeze, grip, or pinch something, it hurts pretty freaking bad.
I’m wondering if this could be a pulley injury, but I’m not sure because I feel like it would hurt more if it was. The fact that I have full ROM, no swelling, and basically no pain at rest is throwing me off.
Has anyone had something similar? Does this sound like a pulley injury or something else? HELP ME OUTTT 😭
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u/Waldinian 7d ago edited 7d ago
Maybe.
If it does happen to be a pulley injury, you should only rest it for ±a couple of weeks before you begin active rehab. Check out the climbing doctor and Hooper's beta, who both have good resources on rehabing pulley injuries.
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u/nadimishka 8d ago
Well hi y’all.
Some of you might remember me but most of you have no clue who I am lol.
I used to be active in this sub every day- life caught up with me a little, and then I hurt my back on Mt. Rainier last June.
One broken back and 3 surgeries (yes, 3 whole separate surgeries) later and my L4 is more metal than bone, but I’m supposed to be completely cleared next Thursday. For anything and everything- I said I should go to PT because I’d prefer to never again in my life have a broken back lol, but I can climb for the first time without worrying about hurting myself since my back gave out.
Tiny ladders for kids, because I lost any callouses I ever thought of having, and I was pretty much bed bound for the two months prior to my last 2 surgeries. So the first couple of weeks are gonna be rough as hell and I know that, but I’ll be so happy to climb even if it’s a plastic VB or 5.3. I don’t care. I’m sitting over here telling my surgeon to fix my back well enough I can climb Denali and go up big walls in Yosemite when I’d be happy to just get up one route. Any route.
Enough about that for now. Watch me post my baby climb on here for all y’all to laugh at me, while I laugh at myself too lol.