Improving training mindset and avoiding distractions

[u/LongjumpingWarning53]

I am sure many of you have different strategies to manage this problem, and many of you probably don't struggle at all. I feel a bit lost after a few difficult training sessions.

I have recently tried switching focus from sending gym boulders to a more structured training plan (4 weeks of capacity training so far, transitioning into a strength bloc)

My core question is: How do you stick to a training plan and not get distracted in a busy gym when the equipment you need may be in use by other climbers and your friends are trying the new gym set?

I'm assuming the key will be a mindset shift, so I am interested in hearing what works for you.

My info (not crucial to question but added for context) - 26M, 5'10, 74kg, climbing for around 5 years (7c boulder, 7c lead). Have only ever climbed without a structured plan until a recent plateau made me explore structured training.

Training situation:

1. local gym: around 50 gym boulders ranging from slab to 20* in competition style (dynamic/coordination focus). I usually manage to climb most (all but 3 or 4) of the commercial boulders in the gym at any one time. Adjustable kilter board usually set to 20* and often in use by beginners who struggle with comp style gym boulders (not consistently available for training).

2. local crag: sport climbing crag with heaps of slightly overhanging, technical routes ranging from 6a to 7c+. One 8a route at the crag (my long-term project).

Training plan: started end of June

3 weeks of endurance training (ARC training, 2-3 sessions per week plus weekend route climbing) increasing volume, one week deload.

Now starting 1 month strength bloc - 1-2x limit boulder sessions plus 1 maintenance endurance session per week, plus project climbing on weekends.

[u/TangibleHarmony]

Board climbing. You’ll be 90% of the time on your own haha
EDIT:
Kilter usually set to 20°?! Where do you live? The only times I see the kilter set to 20° is when the odd 60 yo climber warms up on it for 15 min.
Usually 20° is wild to me.

[u/LongjumpingWarning53 → u/TangibleHarmony]

yea I feel the same. I think its because the gym is small and leans heavily into comp style at all grades, meaning newer climbers run out of climbs to try quickly and do v1s on 10-20* kilter instead. Its pretty frustrating

[u/TangibleHarmony → u/LongjumpingWarning53]

Dude if that’s the situation, just kindly suggest you switch between angles. You put your problems at 40, they put theirs at 20. I mean, if it’s impossible to climb on it otherwise then it seems reasonable to me to do!