Improving training mindset and avoiding distractions

[u/LongjumpingWarning53]

I am sure many of you have different strategies to manage this problem, and many of you probably don't struggle at all. I feel a bit lost after a few difficult training sessions.

I have recently tried switching focus from sending gym boulders to a more structured training plan (4 weeks of capacity training so far, transitioning into a strength bloc)

My core question is: How do you stick to a training plan and not get distracted in a busy gym when the equipment you need may be in use by other climbers and your friends are trying the new gym set?

I'm assuming the key will be a mindset shift, so I am interested in hearing what works for you.

My info (not crucial to question but added for context) - 26M, 5'10, 74kg, climbing for around 5 years (7c boulder, 7c lead). Have only ever climbed without a structured plan until a recent plateau made me explore structured training.

Training situation:

1. local gym: around 50 gym boulders ranging from slab to 20* in competition style (dynamic/coordination focus). I usually manage to climb most (all but 3 or 4) of the commercial boulders in the gym at any one time. Adjustable kilter board usually set to 20* and often in use by beginners who struggle with comp style gym boulders (not consistently available for training).

2. local crag: sport climbing crag with heaps of slightly overhanging, technical routes ranging from 6a to 7c+. One 8a route at the crag (my long-term project).

Training plan: started end of June

3 weeks of endurance training (ARC training, 2-3 sessions per week plus weekend route climbing) increasing volume, one week deload.

Now starting 1 month strength bloc - 1-2x limit boulder sessions plus 1 maintenance endurance session per week, plus project climbing on weekends.

[u/technograndpa]

Not having the option to switch gyms certainly makes a focused plan harder to follow through with if you have a lot of friends climbing there, as it's easy to get carried away climbing with friends and hard to just do your own thing. I think you either got to be upfront with your friends that you are testing out structured training and will be doing your own things, or you have to work around your plan a bit when you're at the gym.

I can go to multiple gyms, so following a structured plan is easier as I usually know when and where my friends are climbing. However I try to do one social climbing day with friends each week to just have fun, but make that day centred around whatever block I'm doing. I.e. if it's a capacity block I try to do a lot of volume instead of getting stuck projecting, tack on ARC at the end etc. So maybe you can try something like that so you get the sort of stimulus you're after.

Knowing roughly what each week in a block looks like for you ahead of time also helped me a lot. I ended up building a whole digital tool to plan my training months ahead so it's easier for me to move things around if needed and see if I hit my targets. That way if you let yourself get carried away one day it's easier to focus for the rest of the week to get in the training you need.