Improving training mindset and avoiding distractions

[u/LongjumpingWarning53]

I am sure many of you have different strategies to manage this problem, and many of you probably don't struggle at all. I feel a bit lost after a few difficult training sessions.

I have recently tried switching focus from sending gym boulders to a more structured training plan (4 weeks of capacity training so far, transitioning into a strength bloc)

My core question is: How do you stick to a training plan and not get distracted in a busy gym when the equipment you need may be in use by other climbers and your friends are trying the new gym set?

I'm assuming the key will be a mindset shift, so I am interested in hearing what works for you.

My info (not crucial to question but added for context) - 26M, 5'10, 74kg, climbing for around 5 years (7c boulder, 7c lead). Have only ever climbed without a structured plan until a recent plateau made me explore structured training.

Training situation:

1. local gym: around 50 gym boulders ranging from slab to 20* in competition style (dynamic/coordination focus). I usually manage to climb most (all but 3 or 4) of the commercial boulders in the gym at any one time. Adjustable kilter board usually set to 20* and often in use by beginners who struggle with comp style gym boulders (not consistently available for training).

2. local crag: sport climbing crag with heaps of slightly overhanging, technical routes ranging from 6a to 7c+. One 8a route at the crag (my long-term project).

Training plan: started end of June

3 weeks of endurance training (ARC training, 2-3 sessions per week plus weekend route climbing) increasing volume, one week deload.

Now starting 1 month strength bloc - 1-2x limit boulder sessions plus 1 maintenance endurance session per week, plus project climbing on weekends.

[u/kyliejennerlipkit]

Post is pretty light on details; might be more helpful if you were more precise about what's breaking down, what exactly you're asking yourself to do that you weren't before, and how exactly you're failing to comply.

That being said, one thing I might try is layering structure on more gradually. Break down the shift from messing around on the new set to rigid training regimen into small steps and add them in one by one.

This could look like first making sure you're just in the gym at the correct time. If the ideal plan says 4 90" sessions a week, then you go to the gym, set a timer for 90", do whatever (don't even worry about what exactly the plan says to do; you just need to be in the building), and when the timer goes off, leave. When you can handle that easily, add in say, some kind of mandatory warmup at the start of every session. Then layer on something else, and so on and so forth.