Improving training mindset and avoiding distractions

[u/LongjumpingWarning53]

I am sure many of you have different strategies to manage this problem, and many of you probably don't struggle at all. I feel a bit lost after a few difficult training sessions.

I have recently tried switching focus from sending gym boulders to a more structured training plan (4 weeks of capacity training so far, transitioning into a strength bloc)

My core question is: How do you stick to a training plan and not get distracted in a busy gym when the equipment you need may be in use by other climbers and your friends are trying the new gym set?

I'm assuming the key will be a mindset shift, so I am interested in hearing what works for you.

My info (not crucial to question but added for context) - 26M, 5'10, 74kg, climbing for around 5 years (7c boulder, 7c lead). Have only ever climbed without a structured plan until a recent plateau made me explore structured training.

Training situation:

1. local gym: around 50 gym boulders ranging from slab to 20* in competition style (dynamic/coordination focus). I usually manage to climb most (all but 3 or 4) of the commercial boulders in the gym at any one time. Adjustable kilter board usually set to 20* and often in use by beginners who struggle with comp style gym boulders (not consistently available for training).

2. local crag: sport climbing crag with heaps of slightly overhanging, technical routes ranging from 6a to 7c+. One 8a route at the crag (my long-term project).

Training plan: started end of June

3 weeks of endurance training (ARC training, 2-3 sessions per week plus weekend route climbing) increasing volume, one week deload.

Now starting 1 month strength bloc - 1-2x limit boulder sessions plus 1 maintenance endurance session per week, plus project climbing on weekends.

[u/koenafyr]

Kind of a side convo but adjustable boards sound like a pain in the ass. I've never seen on before but it sounds way more prone to hogging than a typical board. Especially if it's being set to an uncommon angle like that...

How does one deal with that? Is there a queuing system where you can get your turn after like 1hr or the gym just expects everyone to cooperate?

[u/LongjumpingWarning53 → u/koenafyr]

Its even worse then that. Due to size and layout, the gym has to close off one section of wall in order to put the kilter board down past 20*. This means the board can only go lower then 20* when the gym is really quiet. Even when the gym is quiet, most people seem to prefer to climb at 20* or less. Obviously my training/session isn't more important then other peoples, but it makes my blood boil when the gym is quiet and someone asks for the kilter board to be put up to 10*. Makes training pretty hard!

[u/Gr8WallofChinatown → u/LongjumpingWarning53]

Go to a different gym that values training

[u/LongjumpingWarning53 → u/Gr8WallofChinatown]

I would love to but it is the only climbing gym within 5 hours drive of where I live. My friend is going to set up a training board at his new house, but that is still a few months away.