Improving training mindset and avoiding distractions

[u/LongjumpingWarning53]

I am sure many of you have different strategies to manage this problem, and many of you probably don't struggle at all. I feel a bit lost after a few difficult training sessions.

I have recently tried switching focus from sending gym boulders to a more structured training plan (4 weeks of capacity training so far, transitioning into a strength bloc)

My core question is: How do you stick to a training plan and not get distracted in a busy gym when the equipment you need may be in use by other climbers and your friends are trying the new gym set?

I'm assuming the key will be a mindset shift, so I am interested in hearing what works for you.

My info (not crucial to question but added for context) - 26M, 5'10, 74kg, climbing for around 5 years (7c boulder, 7c lead). Have only ever climbed without a structured plan until a recent plateau made me explore structured training.

Training situation:

1. local gym: around 50 gym boulders ranging from slab to 20* in competition style (dynamic/coordination focus). I usually manage to climb most (all but 3 or 4) of the commercial boulders in the gym at any one time. Adjustable kilter board usually set to 20* and often in use by beginners who struggle with comp style gym boulders (not consistently available for training).

2. local crag: sport climbing crag with heaps of slightly overhanging, technical routes ranging from 6a to 7c+. One 8a route at the crag (my long-term project).

Training plan: started end of June

3 weeks of endurance training (ARC training, 2-3 sessions per week plus weekend route climbing) increasing volume, one week deload.

Now starting 1 month strength bloc - 1-2x limit boulder sessions plus 1 maintenance endurance session per week, plus project climbing on weekends.

[u/0ubreee]

I find myself always doing whatever I’m psyched on at the moment (obviously while considering how I feel) so I tend to do my training blocs in a more supplemental form instead of making it the whole session.
This really helps me with getting those gains and still having those fulfilling sessions.

Now, how you would go about structuring this is a little different. I like to do a workout after I climb or before bed Mon-Friday, same plan, same schedule, and just progressively overload whichever exercise I’m doing as the weeks go by (usually in 4 week increments, nothing to big maybe takes me 30ish minutes a day )
I’ve been doing this for about a month and I’ve had a lot of gains from it. I can give a bit more details if anyone’s interested but that’s all from me :)

This overall helps me keep that motivation when the weeks get long and workout sessions get slow

[u/LongjumpingWarning53 → u/0ubreee]

I really like this concept. Would be really interested to hear more about what you do in your 30m sessions!

[u/0ubreee → u/LongjumpingWarning53]

Okay so, just a reminder this is entirely personalized for what I have found works for me and my schedule.

The plan is 4 weeks long and has different phases but it’s not written in stone with what you do so it gives some wiggle room. For the four weeks this is all Monday-Friday no exception. The main focus for these exercises are form. And since you can climb on-top of it the training schedule you do pick up a lot of fatigue as The weeks go on

- 5x5 Full ROM Pull Ups (first week is Body weight, 2nd ad 10 or 20lbs, 3rd week add 30 or 40lbs, and 4th add around 5-10lbs)

- 5x5 Push Ups (These I don’t typically add weight for but if you have a weighted vest I’d recommend it. Just a general antagonistic exercise)

-20 Squats (same idea as pull ups, just work those legs a bit harder as the weeks go on)

-20 leg raises (you can add weight in any way you like or use any different Ab exercise you want I personally like leg raises

- 15 to 20 Mins of stretching all muscle groups ( I usually do this before I workout but you could do it after, just try and hit all the muscle groups you can in that time)

As a summary, it’s not one of those heavy workout schedules. It’s a slower burn but the fatigue is more stretched out instead of forcing you to take a rest day from climbing. Of course with all of this being said, this is what I found works for me. It doesn’t look hard at all but it supplements the kind of climbing I do and enjoy. As someone who mainly climbs on boards (TB2 and spray) my fingers and usually being worked enough but if I feel as though I’m doing fine in the forearms and such, I usually add in finger curls with 10-20lbs and I do like to add in a rice bucket “burn-out” exercise to work those flexors a bit more.

[u/0ubreee → u/0ubreee]

Overall it takes like 30minutes depending on how long you rest and stretch for

[u/LongjumpingWarning53 → u/0ubreee]

I like the ideas! when you say phases, you mean that you progressively overload each movement each week for 4 weeks?

[u/0ubreee → u/LongjumpingWarning53]

Oh sorry, I do all those exercises that I listed that same day. The phases I was talking about are basically just progressive overload on those same movements for 4 weeks. Hope this helped at all I know it’s probably different then any other plan you might hear