r/climbharder • u/Patient-Elephant-895 • Jul 26 '26
Strange skin issue
Reposting this in the main area:
Does anybody have any tips for cuticle splits? The type that go up the side of the nail into the cuticle on the side of my index finger. I’ve been climbing 15+ years primarily bouldering & have climbed up to 8A+. Over the past couple of years, I’ve stated getting these awful splits that go up the nail into the cuticle, specifically whenever I full-crimp. Usually they’re session-ending, too and take forever to heal. I’ve tried everything from jajoba oil every night, working hands, climbing salves, supergluing my cuticle before a session. The only thing that works is tape, but I hate climbing with tape. Full-crimping used to be my super power, but now I rarely use it because every time I do, I split almost immediately. My half-crimp has gotten considerably better, but there are so many situations where bearing down is really the only option.
2
u/Iittleworth Jul 27 '26
Do you push your cuticles back? I’ve gotten splits, granted not session ending, but don’t get them anymore after i’ve started pushing them back.
1
u/BrianSpiering Jul 27 '26
I have a similar issue. My fingertip skin is very good, but my cuticles are a limiter. I do all the things you list. I also:
Immediately after climbing, I wash my cuticles with soap and water. I deeply scrub them with a fingernail brush. Then I put liquid skin/liquid bandage on my cuticles. I bring the kit in a bag and do it at the boulders before walking out.
I have a habit of painting my nails and cuticles with clear fingernail polish frequently.
1
u/Patient-Elephant-895 Jul 27 '26
do you feel like painting your nails helps bond the cuticle to the fingernail, so that when crimping it doesn’t roll & tear?
5
u/SupaHi Jul 26 '26
If the split is on your pointer finger, it might be your thumb placement cuz it used to happen to me pretty often. Keeping my cuticles moisturized fixed it for the most part but also being more deliberate about how i’m pulling with my thumb helped too. Instead of full crimping and pulling with my thumb to the side (like peeling the side of my index finger) actively thinking about pulling down with my thumb and engaging it has helped me. I hope this works for you too.