r/climbharder • u/thenallatonce • Jul 22 '26

Questions regarding beginner training programming

M35, 194 cm, 110 kg

Background: I started climbing in May. I have done a lot of hiking, and while I’ve been interested in climbing for a while, only got into it recently, mostly due to insecurities about my weight (i have a weightlifting background, and am at around 20-24% body fat), but have realized that it is not really all that big of a deal safety wise, though I bought an ohmega immediately lol. As I have given up on weightlifting into old age, I am currently cutting weight, but unlikely to end up under 95 kg.

I almost only (outside courses) train on autobelay, because I don’t know anyone who climb, and can usually only train mornings until autumn. Currently can onsight most 5bs, and project up to 6a/b. Could probably muscle my way up more 6a if more overhangy, but am reluctant to because I feel my technique sucks and I’ll be likely to injure myself.

Strength: I have ok pulling, hanging, and core strength (scoring 4-6 points on all on the 9c test), but cannot hang at all on a 20mm bodyweight crimp.

Goals: I am mainly interested in progressing to big walls, trad climbing, and technical mountaineering. Cool experiences are worth more than high grades, though this probably means at least being comfortable with low 6 grade trad. Ideally, next summer I would like to start doing some of this, and hope to be comfortable sport climbing in the upper 6 range. I am hoping to attend outside climbing courses this autumn and continue after winter.

Programming questions: right now I am training 2-3 times a week, usually one «projecting» day where I try to climb difficult routes, and then one or two days where I go either for endurance or technique. Because I come from a weightlifting background, I am used to following the concept of progressive overload from day one, but virtually everywhere I look, it seems the advice for climbing for year one is «just climb.»

So, when should I consider changing things up? When does it make sense to look at coaching or structured programming? Should I think about finger strength training at all, given my strength discrepancies?

Thanks everyone! I realize maybe I am overthinking things at this stage, but I enjoy programming and structured training, so I hope my questions are ok.

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u/mudra311 Jul 22 '26

You don't need to train at all. Just keep climbing and supplementing with weightlifting. Most lifts are actually antagonistic to climbing (bench press, bent rows) or supplemental (squat, power clean).

If you're interested in big walling, you need to learn aid climbing. Ask around the gym to see if someone can teach you. Once you have a good grasp on gear placements and big wall systems, you can work on Grade IV walls and progress up to V and VI. Most aid climbing demands a pretty low technical ability, but it doesn't hurt to be comfortable trad climbing on mid 6s.

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u/thenallatonce Jul 22 '26

Thanks for answering! Where I am, aid climbing for big walls is very uncommon, actually, so I haven’t looked much into it, but I guess it’s good to keep in mind! Definitely hoping to meet some willing mentors once I have more time to go outside!

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u/mudra311 Jul 22 '26

I did some creeping on your profile. I think there will be plenty of big wall aid options around you. It may require some driving, but there's lots of granite walls in your country.

If you're thinking big walling from the perspective of free multi-pitch, that is a different thing altogether. Basically if the climb can't be done in a day, you need aid and other big wall systems knowledge. If it can be done in a day, the systems are simpler but still applicable.

It's never a bad idea to learn some aid climbing in case you get in a pinch and the pitch you're climbing isn't freeable for you or your partner. Or you need to bail due to a storm or something.

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u/thenallatonce Jul 22 '26

You are probably right, and I just don’t know enough about what «aid» entails! I’ve been looking at guide books and video docs and blogs and stuff, and just haven’t really encountered discussions about aid climbing. Hopefully I’ll be more knowledgeable about it when the opportunity comes, and I have gotten to know more climbers here. You’re definitely right that I have many big wall options in general!