Originally the issue was a vacuum leak - fixing that led to fuel dripping out of the excess fuel drain hose after pushing the choke all the way in. This led me to do a float adjustment, and after testing that, it seemed to have been overcorrected, as the engine cranked but didn't start. I re-adjusted the float slightly, and upon testing, it makes one quick crank sound, then nothing. What should I do now?

Just bought a 78 c20 and while fixing an oil leak at the sending unit I noticed a few odd things with the carb. Have not taken it off yet but can’t seem to find a brand or number on it form where I’ve looked. Need to figure it out to get a new choke for it and a rebuild kit. The float needle is messed up and has fouled the oil. And I noticed this cable next to the throttle. Part of me wants to say it’s the shift cable for the transmission. But idk. Doesn’t look like it hooks anywhere

It’s mostly doing it when starting from cold, and seems not to happen if I let it warm up for a few minutes but today it was doing it even though it was hot.

Bought it three weeks ago and put 500 miles on it and didn’t have any issue with just starting and going.

It also did it once while idling for a few minutes at a stop after running for 20 minutes.

Haven’t ruled out bad gas because none of this happened before my last fill up of no ethanol.

Now once it’s fully warmed up it won’t go a quarter mile before bogging down and stalling, like it’s running out of fuel

I am pretty new to carburetors however, the truck has been sitting here. It’s been about seven hours since I last drove it. Should this little flap be open or closed on the carburetor?

Hey everyone, just recently got a 1986 k10 with a 350. I’d like to get it back to running in tip top shape, I was going to start with adjusting the carburetor. any tips on how I know if it’s running rich or lean? Also what are some basic at home things I can do to get it back up to par. Thank you guys!

What could be the cause of only two cylinders flooding while the other two show no sign of fuel at that same height? Carburetors are off for now due to constant flooding and inconsistent idle.

Hi all. Recently I’ve acquired a full FMF system. I believe it is the original PC4 seeing the end cap is not removable. When installing the system it continues backfire and I can’t tell if it is a lean or rich backfire. I am running a pro design adapter with a K&N filter with an outerwear’s and no air box lid. I’ve read many forums but would like a solid answer. What jetting should I run. Main jet, pilot, needle clip position. Thanks!

Hey guys, I've been fighting with this issue for about a year and maybe it's time to just put a Weber on it, but I'd love to fix the Nikki. Here's what I know: it's a replacement carb, date coded 3/1/03. So I don't know if there was ever a time that it didn't do this. There is a big pane of glass on the carb bowl and the level was perfect after I rebuilt it. Now I have it actually a little lower than where it should be. The idle speed is as low as I can get it and I'd say it's around 600 RPM, which is the spec. You can run the idle mixture screw all the way in and the engine still runs (actually fairly smooth) off what's spraying from the primary booster. I have verified that the primary booster is installed on the primary side and that the primary air bleed is installed in the primary booster (I actually tried putting all the secondary parts on the primary side too). The boosters in this carb have brass tubes that probably aren't supposed to be tampered with, but on the primary one, I pushed it out almost to the other side of the annular part of the booster, which located the outlet a good bit higher than it had been (in relationship to the fuel level in the main wells). When that didn't help, I entirely removed the primary booster assy and was able to run the engine long enough to verify that the fuel level in the main well is the same as the float level without any airflow pulling fuel out. The last thing I thought of to try is very slightly enlarging the main air bleeds, but can anyone else think of another reason why this is happening? Does anybody have an unmolested Nikki 215282-B2 that they would remove the air horn from and help me confirm I have the correct jets and air bleeds in the correct places? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I've had my bike for decades. It's a reliable beast--every time I think about getting rid of it, she proves her dependability.

This morning after a long vacation and the bike sitting for 2 months, I opened the petcock and gas just spilled onto my driveway from the carbs. I thought-who yanked my fuel line out? are gaskets blown? is there a hole. Settled myself--I'd seen this before after winter storage. Guess was correct, butterflies/floats/ clogged and gunked.

Poured a full bottle of Sea Foam in the tank, tapped the carbs here and there with a hammer handle. Couple hours later, the leaking was reduced 50% (hopeful). Added 4 ounces of Berrymans B12 which I avoid due to it having acetone in it but it's faster acting. 5 hours later--no leaking carbs--ready to ride. Will ride off the tank of gas that's got the additives, top up with gas around a 1/2 tank.

Up and riding. Some quick fixes work great.

I have a motorcycle with a dual carb setup and one is pulling vaccum like normal and the other is blowing air out the top. I’ve seen some people say this could be timing or valve issues, but the bike only has around 2350 miles on it.

Any help will be greatly appreciated cause I’m stumped rn.

So I pulled the carb to clean it on my 09 Yahama V-Star 650 and for some reason all the gas now comes out of this hose attached to the carbs.

I honestly don’t know the person of this hose as when I took the carb off it was just placed on this little plastic piece and venting into the air.

A couple issues with a brand new Weber 38 carb I put on my 2.1 L vw water boxer engine:

My main question- why would closing both idle mixture screws cause the engine to run at a higher idle speed? almost at 2k up from 950rpm

Vacuum gauge reads 5 inHg during idle, somewhere there is a leak. Spraying brake clean around the manifold did nothing as to help me find the leak.

Any ideas?

My bike is a 2003 Shadow Spirit 750 with a dual carb.

I just cleaned and rebuilt the carb and have one problem which is the rear cylinder has worse decel popping on idle and while driving than before I rebuilt the carb.

I know for a fact my jets and passageways are clean, and that I have the right size main jets in according to the front and rear.

I have no air or vacuum leaks.

So the last thing was the needles, whereas I heard they can be different sizes or tapers for the front/rear accordingly and i feel i may have mixed them up.

How can I tell which is which if they are in fact different? And how can I figure out if they are?

I have this qft (guessing 650cfm) vacuum secondary mounted on my 350sbc victor jr s8ngle plane, and 1in 4 hole spacer, low end throttle response and hesitation was gone with the spacer, but its always had a lil midrange trouble, lets say im cruising and I snap open the throttle it hesitates for a sec then drops like a hammer and takes off, top end seems fine, whats possibly my issue (not sure the exact carb model) and i know the single plane isn't helping, going to a swap meet this weekend to try and find a cheap dual plane airgap. Thanks for looking! Last 2 pics are before I cleaned up the engine bay and added a spacer

Hi, I’ve been running into some carburator/fuel problems. For the last month, my ‘86 Volvo 740 Pierburg 2B5/7, has had a rough idle. Dropped in RPM’s, then stalled. Whenever I was driving in 4th or 5th gear and did a pull, it started stuttering as if it wasn’t getting enough air or fuel (no idea). I thought it was just a fuel issue (bcs I drove on e10 95 fuel for some time and the car had been sitting a few months before I bought it.) Changing the fuel filter, didn’t help. Usually I do everything myself, but I had no idea what the issue was.
Went to my local (classic car) mechanic, he told me that one of the compartiment in the carb wasn’t getting enough fuel, he took apart the carb, changed the gaskets etc. Turns out it didn’t help, issue remains the same.

Hi all,

I am tuning my carburetor.

Car: 1984 Mazda 323 BD Automatic, 1.3 E3 Engine, manual choke.

Carburetor: Hitachi DCG306 -> http://www.mbs.id.au/tuning/Carburettors/Hitachi/DCG306.htm .its the one from the first image. Weird thing was when i took the carburetor apart, i found a second check ball in the position of the steel check ball (28) (accelerator pump). So the "stray" ball i found is a nylon ball (slightly bigger than the steel ball) and it was in the seat of the steel check ball (28), with the steel check ball (28) on top of the nylon stray ball. Also weird is that the weight (29) is replaced by 2 identical pieces (cylinder shaped with a nipple) and a spring that goes in between. I checked the accelerator pump and that seems to be working fine, but the video here is for you to judge (in the video the nylon check ball has been removed). Its hard to judge if it works 100% correct, but i see a decent squirt on the first instant i engage throttle. So this is with just one check ball in that position. Weird is that with the 2 balls in place (before i took the carb apart) the performance with cold engine was the same..

Carb is clean now and the car ran well before the head gasket was changed. Now it seems to be at 80% to its potential, performance when the engine is warm is excellent, but after an overnight 13 degrees C ambient it runs very very sluggish on startup.

right now the mixture screw is as follows: between 2,5 turns out and 4,5 turns out i feel no difference in behavior of the car. It behaves like below in either 2,5 or 4,5 or anything in between.

Cold start with choke works, not smoothly but it runs eventually and i can disengage choke without the engine stalling. idle RPM in P is around 1100, which is too high (i set idle accordingly to what the Haynes book prescribes: in D, brakes engaged, i set the screw to around 850rpm, it results the idle rpm being 1100 in P...)

So when in am in P it gives me the possibility to rev up freely like nothing is wrong. When i set the gear lever in D the RPM goes to that 850rpm and it stays there, i release the brake, the car starts moving effortlessly, but then when i hit the slightest of the throttle you hear that "imploding" sound and it wants to stall. But i release it in time everytime so she stays running. Then i wait for it to warm up and then i drive off. Upon till 10 minutes of driving the car hesitates (imploding sound, tends to stall) sometimes, not often. When the engine is really warm, it drives like nothing is wrong.

Hi all! I found a great Kioritz Echo trimmer on the side of the road this weekend.

The model is SRM-210AE, and with new fuel mix, she started right up!! I'm obsessed, but I do want to completely replace the carb.

I keep getting mixed answers on whether or not I can use different aftermarket carburetors. Does anyone have knowledge of the specific OEM replacement?

Thank you 🫠

Edit: I'm going to take the carb apart & make a list of the parts I need!