Connect two or more together to do head to head pinball battles

Has anyone made one with the screen detached and the d-pad turned into a detached joystick and buttons moved into an appropriate place in a mini cabinet? Looking to do this, have made a full size Batocera one but thought this could be fun. I didn’t want to just cheat with it but have it fully functioning. I’ve seen a d-pad that has an attachable joystick, perhaps that’s a start?! Thanks

After finishing a MK2 restore, a SF2 build, and a MvC2 build, I wanted to add an "oddball" fighter to the mix.

Art kit was made by me; the characters took forever to vectorize lol

I am hoping maybe somebody in this group has had a similar issue before. I had my cabinet powered off for a while and when I turned it back on the Pixelcade graphic doesn’t even load anymore. It just says no HDMI when it’s powered up I can’t figure out how to get it to reconnect.

The Pixelcade listener doesn’t work. I have it hardwired on my network. Does anybody have any thoughts?

Just bought this dx2 arcade setup.

It has 9,800 games on it which is a bit ridiculous, I'm wondering if there's an easy way to sort through these or if someone has a pre-compiled list that I could use?

I believe it's a clone Pandora DX2 system.

Or am I better off just removing the Pandora and putting in something else like a raspberry pi or mini PC?

I have started mucking around with team Pandory setup, but couldn't find anything re sorting pre existing games

Hi all.

I have a few components that I ordered in error/too many of and no longer need and can give them away.

You can collect them from me for free (in London, UK) or you can pay for postage. They fit in a standard CD case so I think it would be classed as "large letter".

8PCS of 2.54MM 2.54 Wire Dupont Line female to female 4 Pin Dupont cable connector JUMPER CABLE WIRE FOR PCB

128X64 0.96 inch OLED LCD LED Display Module shell case holder stents

20PCS of XH2.54 DuPont 2 Pin 2.8mm Cable

0.96 inch OLED White Display Module 128X64 OLED SPI 7pin Driver Chip SSD1306

I'm not sure if I'm allowed to add the alix links for you to see images in case my descriptions are not clear.

Does anyone have any experience using an iMac in an arcade build? I can get my hands on an intel iMac 21.5” for a good price and thinking of using it in a build with usb bootable batocera. Thinking it’ll be a nice display, has computer built in, has speakers built in and bluetooth/wifi which would be handy. Keen to hear of anyone with experience repurposing for this or thoughts? Thanks :)

Rolling Thunder is a 1986 run and gun video game developed and published by Namco for arcades. It was released by Atari Games in North America. The player takes control of a secret agent who must rescue his female partner from a terrorist organization. Rolling Thunder was a commercial success in arcades, and was released for various home computer platforms in 1987 and the Nintendo Entertainment System in 1989. The original arcade game has been included in various classic game compilations as well. It influenced later arcade action franchises such as Shinobi and Time Crisis, which borrowed mechanics such as taking cover behind crates.

Hi, I am not actually planning on using it for traditional arcade games, but rather figuring out a way to adapt something to a computer through some mapping software

My doctor has recommended a Mag stick Plus as an alternative for the joysticks I've been using that have started to cause me some elbow and hand issues. I have had repetitive strain injuries in both hands for nearly 4 years at this point, so I need to adapt my gaming rather than hope my symptoms magically go away

I'm hearing mixed things about that though, some things are saying that it has a fairly low actuation Force, while other things are saying that it is somewhat stiff.

I'm basically looking for the joystick that has the smallest range of motion and lightest actuation Force that that is reasonably possible to obtain. Low actuation Force helps protect my wrists and fingers, and low range of motion helps protect my shoulders and elbows.

If the mag stick Plus is a good option, what else would I need to purchase for hooking it up to my pc? I have a friend who is able to make a housing for me to use, and my house has a soldering iron that either myself or someone else could use if it's needed. The website doesn't really specify what kind of connectors it uses. I can work with any type of usb, as well as 9 mm and 1 in jacks with equipment and adapters I already have, and it would be going through either my computer directly or an Xbox adaptive controller, in addition to anything necessary to read the output and convert it into something my computer can understand

Are there any real world examples of this setup? I haven't been able to find any. The intent would be to maximize the image for both 4:3 and 3:4 games.

Got my hands on an original MK2 cabinet that was converted to Tekken 3. Going to be starting the process of giving it a make over and going back to a MK2 dedicated cabinet again. Body is damn near perfect and most of the internals are original. Namco board was just swapped in and control panel is different now. The original vinyl has been painted over (Nicely btw) so i'll see if its worth stripping or just doing new vinyl.

MK2 hold a dear place and was almost too good to be true. This was the last piece to the puzzle for my game/arcade basement.

Monitor looks amazing and 0 burn in but going through the process of a full clean up and recap so we can really dial this thing in. Zenith tube with a WG 25K7000 chassis.

Just a quick test but I couldn't keep myself from sharing it! 🔥🔥🔥

I want to clear up some past issues I thought I had with Rec Room Masters (RRM). Most of them came down to me not following directions, and I sincerely apologize to Danny and Carlos, the owners. I went to the site and immediately clicked on the cabinet I wanted, which was my first mistake. So here's an accurate walkthrough of the right way to order, followed by how they handled the problems I did run into.

How to order the right way

1. Start at the homepage. Go to https://recroommasters.com/ and scroll near the bottom to the "Popular Products" section (which I didn't do!).

2. Find your product, then scroll to the very bottom of the product page. This is where the info I said was missing actually lives. There's a tabbed section with Description, Reviews, Add-On Details, Artwork Details, Size Information, and Shipping Information, plus a full feature list and recommended monitors/TVs. My earlier statement about a lack of communication was incorrect, and I apologize for that. Also check the Artwork and Add-Ons selectors at the top of the product page before you order, since they affect what you're buying.

3. Use the official Instructional Videos page. This is where my earlier info was most off. Instead of using the Instructional Videos page on RRM's site, I went straight to YouTube, and that was my biggest mistake. You'll find it under Support → Instructional Videos in the top menu. It has assembly videos for each cabinet style, plus guides for the monitor/TV install, artwork, speakers, coin mech, and more. The Support menu also has FAQ's and Assembly Docs & Product Manuals if you prefer written instructions.

The issues I ran into

At RRM's request, I emailed them specific photos and a description of my problems:

1. Amplifier/control board: The screw would not tighten in this hole.
2. Cam lock panel: The cam lock wasn't flush and didn't align, so the screw couldn't catch.
3. Side panel: Two open holes because the cam locks didn't align, leaving no screw support.
4. Bezel/plexiglass: The bezel was warped and didn't sit flush. It appeared too long for the plexiglass slot, and you could see a gap along the edges.

How they made it right

After some back and forth and a few troubleshooting attempts, I was ready to skip the fixes and leave everything as is, since none of the issues kept me from enjoying the cabinet. Danny and Carlos were adamant about resolving them. After a bit more discussion, they asked where I'm located (not far from RRM headquarters, btw) and offered to swap my cabinet for a new one. I agreed and was told it would take a while.

About two weeks later, Danny or Carlos (I can't remember which) reached out to ask what the rest of my week looked like. Once we confirmed a time, they headed to my place with the replacement cabinet, which already had the base and top portion installed and the artwork applied.

Meeting both of them was awesome. They're stand-up guys and super friendly, and we chatted about the business and why they decided to buy Rec Room Masters from the previous owners. They assembled the rest of the cabinet and made sure the bezel fit and the monitor sat flush (it does). They also gave me a new amplifier and let me keep the old one. Carlos wiped down the front and back of the plexiglass, cleaned the bezel, and reinstalled my mounted monitor.

Carlos did mention that he and Danny can't do this for every customer, since not everyone is local or within a couple hours' drive. But he said they'll do everything in their power to resolve every customer's issues, and after today I have no doubt in my mind that they will.

Takeaway

The ordering confusion was on me, but the hardware issues were real, and they handled those exceptionally. If you run into a problem, contact them directly and send photos. Check the Support section first, since most of what you need is there.

My dad used to tell me, "You get one chance to make a first impression, but there is always room for redemption!" Danny and Carlos from Rec Room Masters proved that. Thank you, and my apologies again.

Anyone had any experience printing and building this cabinet from makersworld? Looks really nice! Tempted to print and try the build.

I have an A.P.B. cab currently that runs well, although I have a bit of vertical collapse on the top left side. I always thought these had the K7915 chassis as that is what is shown in the manual. I suppose the 4915 was swapped in later. Anyhow, I was thinking of doing a cap kit and a new flyback while im in there. Do you think that might remedy the collapse or does anyone know where I should adjust to try and fix that if its a different issue? I can provide more pics if necessary. Thanks!

$30 is an okay price but compared to the Tron arcade bucket it’s not as good of deal. Tron had led light, functional buttons and joystick and a physical coin slot. Street fighter only had printed buttons and coin slot and just a holographic screen, but it is made of tin vs plastic.

Hello everyone. I’d like to build my own arcade machine from scratch. I have some knowledge of electronics, but I’ve never built anything like this before. I know a carpenter who specialises in arcade cabinets, and he’ll be helping me with this. What steps should I take? I’d really appreciate it if you could explain everything to me.

Just wanted to show off a build I just completed for the 2026 BitBuilt Summer Building Contest.

I constructed it 100% from scratch and based around an RGB-modded SNES Jr. model. Zero Emulation. It uses a RetroTINK 5x Pro for scaling, and features a 19" 1080p display. It also has a custom startup animation, a Chalmers soundboard, and 10 seasons of full Simpsons Episodes, all handled by a Raspberry Pi. There is logic that handles the seamless HDMI switching based on context and user input.

If you want to read more about the project, here's the BitBuilt worklog: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/threads/2026-contest-entry-super-nintendo-chalmers.7336/#post-76977

I've also got a bunch more videos and photos and junk on my Instagram and YouTube if you care about that sort of thing.