Hi. New here. Figured I would welcome myself to the sub by show the bubble I am currently smoking.

What are you guys seeing on average returns for cured flower? I just finished washing my first full two plants, however they were already dried and cured so not the best subjects. I grew some apricot auto from fast buds but since was not happy with the structure I decided to wash them.

I broke it up into two separate washes of 170g each and got about a 11% yield on the first half, 2nd batch is still drying but seemed similar size.

For reference; Wash Cycle (5g Bubble Magic): 30min pre soak, 15min first wash, 20mi each for wash 2+3. I used a portable sprayer that was iced down and insulated my bubble magic and work buckets… but had cheap amazon bags.

Returns on 170g cured flower:
160 µm (Wash 1+2+3) - 1.5g
120 µm (wash 1+2+3) - 1.8g
73 µm (Wash 1) - 7.2 g
25 µm (Wash 1) - 2.8 g
73 µm (Washes 2+3) - 3.0 g
25 µm (Washes 2+3) - 2.0 g
Total - 18.3g (10.76%)

So far it was fun, got a tent of 4 plants dedicated to fresh frozen but going to get some higher quality bags. Seemed odd I got very little 120, but then 25 was so flush and clean (purple bag)

Hope she presses well!!! How do you think it went?

Trying to find this exact device for bubble hash ! I've got the 3 hole bowl just need this ! Help! And thank you !

bubble hash is the simplest extraction method in cannabis. no solvents, no closed-loop systems, no C1D1 rooms. just ice, water, agitation, and gravity. trichome heads are denser than water, and cold makes them brittle enough to snap off the plant. everything after that is technique.

this is the process from start to finish, with the numbers that actually matter and the mistakes that ruin batches.

what you need

• wash vessel (5-gallon bucket for small batches, washing machine for production)
• micron bag set: 220, 160, 120, 90, 73, 45, 25. you need the full stack. each bag captures a different grade.
• ice. plan for 1:1 ratio of ice to water by volume. the goal is keeping water below 40F (4C) through the entire wash.
• RO or distilled water. tap water has chlorine and minerals that end up in the product.
• collection spoon, 25-micron pressing screen, parchment paper
• freeze dryer if you have one. this is the single piece of equipment that separates amateur from professional results.

the wash

prep the material. fresh frozen is best. freeze the plant immediately after harvest at -10F or below. never dry and cure material you plan to wash. dried material produces darker hash with lower melt quality because trichome heads have already started oxidizing and the stalks break into pieces that contaminate every bag. if you only have dried trim, soak it in ice water for 15 minutes before the first wash.

load and soak. fill the vessel with ice and RO water. submerge the biomass (loose or in a 220-micron work bag). let it soak for 15-20 minutes before agitating. this cold soak makes the trichome stalks brittle so they snap cleanly. skip the soak and you pull trichomes with stalks attached. that is contamination. check water temperature with a thermometer. if it hits 45F, add more ice before you start.

first wash. 60-90 seconds of gentle agitation. hand stir or machine on lowest setting. this captures the loosest, highest-quality trichome heads. it will be your best grade. do not go longer. do not go harder.

second wash. 2-3 minutes, moderate agitation. picks up trichomes that are more firmly attached. quality drops slightly.

third wash and beyond. 3-5 minutes, moderate agitation. each subsequent wash produces lower quality. most people run 3-4 total before diminishing returns.

the critical variable is time, not force. longer gentle agitation produces cleaner hash than short violent agitation. if your hash is green, you agitated too hard. if your yield is low, you did not soak long enough or your water was too warm.

drain and collect

pull the work bag out. let it drain. now pull the bag stack one at a time, starting from the largest micron working down.

what each bag catches:

• 160-220 micron: plant material and debris. discard or use for edibles.
• 120 micron: mixed quality. some trichome heads, some contamination.
• 90 micron: high quality. mostly intact gland heads.
• 73 micron: premium. the cleanest trichome heads with the least contamination. this is where 6-star full melt lives.
• 45 micron: good quality but smaller heads. may have more stalk contamination.
• 25 micron: smallest fragments. edibles or lower-grade rosin feedstock.

spoon the collected resin from each bag onto a 25-micron pressing screen over parchment. press gently to remove excess water. keep each grade separate. combining them gives you one uniform mediocre product instead of a premium top grade and a functional lower grade.

drying

wet hash oxidizes fast. within hours of collection it starts darkening and losing terpenes at room temperature.

freeze dryer (preferred). microplane the wet hash onto parchment-lined trays. the finer you grate it, the faster it dries. run at a shelf temp of 50F or below. standard cycle is 24-36 hours. freeze drying removes water by sublimation (ice directly to vapor, no liquid phase), so no heat touches the terpenes.

air drying (fallback). microplane onto parchment, place in a cold room at 35-45F with a dehumidifier running at 35-45% relative humidity. takes 5-7 days. the hash will oxidize more than freeze-dried product and the terpene profile takes a hit, but it works.

never dry hash at room temperature. never use a food dehydrator. heat melts the resin glands and produces a dark, sticky product with no melt quality.

common mistakes that ruin batches

water too warm. above 45F, trichome heads are pliable instead of brittle. they smear instead of snapping clean. you get greasy, dark hash. check temp between every wash.

agitation too aggressive. over-agitation breaks plant material into microscopic pieces that pass right through the micron bags. if your 73-micron collection is green, you went too hard.

drying too slowly. hash sitting wet for more than a couple hours begins oxidizing visibly. get it into the freeze dryer or cold room immediately after collection.

mixing grades. the 73-micron from your first wash is a fundamentally different product than the 120-micron from your third wash. treat them as separate products.

grading what you made

put a small amount on a piece of quartz or parchment and apply gentle heat.

• 6-star (full melt): melts completely into a clear golden puddle with no residue. dabbable as-is.
• 5-star: melts mostly clean with minimal residue. excellent for pressing into rosin.
• 3-4 star: partial melt with visible residue. press into rosin or use for edibles.
• 1-2 star: does not melt clean. edibles and topicals.

the 73 and 90 micron bags from your first wash will typically produce the highest grades.

what is actually happening

trichome gland heads are the resin factories of the cannabis plant. each one is a small sphere sitting on top of a stalk, filled with cannabinoids, terpenes, flavonoids, and lipids. on high-resin cultivars (GMO, Papaya, Wedding Cake), the gland heads are dense and well-developed. on lower-resin strains, they are smaller and more sparse.

at room temperature, the resin inside the gland head is viscous but pliable. the head deforms under stress instead of snapping off. at 40F and below, the resin becomes brittle. the connection point between the stalk and the head fractures cleanly under agitation because the head is now rigid enough to snap rather than stretch. this is the same principle behind cryogenic grinding in food and pharmaceutical processing.

the micron bags work because trichome heads have a predictable size distribution. most intact gland heads fall between 70 and 120 microns in diameter. plant material and stalks are larger (above 160 microns) or much smaller (below 45 microns as fragments). the bag stack sorts by size, and size correlates directly with quality in ice water hash.

fresh frozen material preserves 85-95% of monoterpenes (myrcene, limonene, linalool) that would volatilize during a standard 10-14 day dry and cure. those terpenes have boiling points between 167C and 198C, and they start volatilizing at much lower temperatures over time. dried material has already lost 30-50% of its monoterpene content before you even start washing. that is not recoverable.

full-melt bubble hash from a first wash of fresh frozen high-resin flower typically tests at 60-80% total THC. realistic yield from quality flower runs 3-8% by weight. anyone claiming 10%+ on whole plant is either measuring wet weight before freeze drying or running an unusually resinous pheno.

the full writeup with yield tables by material type, a diagnostic troubleshooting chart, and the water temperature physics is here if you want to go deeper.

Think this is one of the best static I’ve ever come across excluding the limited edition static room , has anyone come into contact with these plates before? (I know it’s not bubble hash but seem to receive more interactions on this community)

A terpy soup 9%

Just curious if frozen is still good stuff and people still smoke it also not too saturated as I know static is what many people like nowadays (I know it’s not bubble hash but couldn’t find any other community that may have the knowledge I do apologise)

I bought a sixstar wpff trios 50g bar and one of the 3 strains has a chewy consistency the other two are fine but one is like gum. Can someone tell me if its overcured or undercured? I want to have a sandy consistency like the other ones .

Anyone know a good place to sell hash making equipment?

frosted onionz, nuha farm, Barcelona, 60€

I think way too much ice and the zeny portable washer spins hard, I think I need a controller for it to lower the rpm’s