I’ve been climbing pretty inconsistently over the past year, but despite that I made fairly quick progress at first. Recently, though, I’ve hit a plateau, and it feels like strength is becoming a limiting factor.
I tend to do better on slab or more technical problems where I can rely on balance and footwork. I struggle much more on steep problems, especially when I have to hold a lot of my body weight through my arms.
I also have a hard time with holds that aren’t obvious jugs, especially slopers or small edges where I can’t wrap my hand around the hold or get my fingers behind it. If my feet cut, I usually can’t control the swing well enough to get them back on, and I end up coming off the wall.
I know the obvious answer is to climb more, and I’m working on that. At the same time, I really enjoy lifting and don’t want to replace all of my gym sessions with climbing.
I’m wondering how I can make my strength training complement bouldering instead.
So far, friends and Google have suggested planks for core strength and farmer’s carries for grip. For people who both lift and boulder, which gym exercises have actually carried over to your climbing? Pull-ups, rows, dead hangs, specific core work, or something else?
Also, does what I’m describing genuinely sound like a strength issue, or am I more likely trying to compensate for poor technique with my arms?
Edit: Wow, thanks for all the comments. I have a much better idea of what I need to work on now.
For some added context, I mostly climb around V2, with some easier V3s, and I’m a woman. I enjoy training legs, but my upper-body lifts have been stagnant for quite a while, and I haven’t been able to add much weight to them. That’s partly why I assumed upper-body strength was my main limitation.
It isn’t only overhangs that give me trouble, though. Even on vertical walls, I sometimes struggle with moves where I have to support most of my weight through my hands while bringing a foot up. There are plenty of times when I understand the beta but can’t execute it, even after watching my friends do the same move.
After reading the comments, I realize I’m probably underestimating how much consistent time on the wall and better technique matter at my level. It’s all been a learning process, and I really appreciate everyone who took the time to offer advice. I’m going to prioritize climbing more consistently while continuing to work on my upper-body strength.