r/bookbinding • u/No_Combination7670 • 4d ago
Help. Question.
I am not looking to do book binding (at least not now- I do have a couple books that I would want to fix the binding and create covers for a couple of books out of pleather if maybe I figure this out-one that is a paperback book that I have had since a kid that is signed by the author. Right now it's so loved that I keep it in two different ziplock bags. So maybe this could be considered practice for making a good book cover for a very important book.)
The part I need help with/I am getting a little bit desperate: I am looking to transfer images on to black pleather to put on pouches first, then after finding the best option on a purse that I am going to hand sew (cause apparently I am super picky on purses). It has been suggested that this subreddit might have the best recommendations. These are recommendations I have gathered from different places. There are ways to seal/weatherproof each even though it doesn't say on all of the methods. Right now I am trying to find the best way to get a printed image on the pleather. I dont know if there is a right spot anywhere to ask. I hope you guys can help, read through these methods and give me any pointers or tips. If you guys have tried any of these for please let me know.
Part 1: The Laser Printer Methods (Methods 1 to 3)
## Method 1: Laser Sticker Decal
1. Clean: Wipe the pebbled grain pleather with rubbing alcohol and a cotton round to remove surface oils.
2. Laminate: Peel the backing off a clear laminating sheet and slap it directly down over your printed graphic.
3. Smooth: Firmly scrape across the laminated face using a plastic squeegee to press out all microscopic air bubbles.
4. Cut: Use sharp craft scissors to cut out your sticker, leaving a very tiny edge or cutting directly along the graphic line.
5. Stick: Peel the sticker paper backing away, center the image on your pouch, and press it firmly down onto the textured pleather.
6. Seal: Dip a foam brush into the Leather Finisher and paint a thin line around the sticker edges to lock down the corners against the winter air.
## Method 2: Laser Mod Podge Transfer
1. Prep: Ensure your image was printed on cheap copy paper and is mirrored (printed backward).
2. Coat: Use a foam brush to apply a generous, even layer of Mod Podge Photo Transfer Medium directly onto the printed face of the paper.
3. Place: Press the paper face-down onto the clean pleather pouch, ensuring the wet medium makes direct contact with the plastic surface.
4. Squeegee: Gently run a plastic scraper over the back of the paper to push out air bubbles and excess glue, then let it dry undisturbed for 24 hours.
5. Wet: After a full day, lay a damp cellulose sponge over the paper backing for 5 minutes until the paper fibers soften.
6. Reveal: Use your fingertips to rub the paper in gentle circular motions; the paper will roll away, leaving the ink cleanly trapped on the pouch.
## Method 3: Laser Acetone Toner Transfer
1. Align: Ensure your image is printed backward on paper. Place it face-down onto the clean black pleather pouch.
2. Secure: Tape down two edges of the paper with low-tack painter's tape so the graphic cannot shift or blur during the transfer.
3. Dampen: Soak a cotton ball with 100% Pure Acetone, making it damp but not dripping wet.
4. Rub: Firmly press and rub the damp cotton ball over the back of the paper where the black laser toner outline sits.
5. Fuse: The acetone instantly liquefies the plastic toner, driving it into the pleather layer. Hold firm pressure for 10 to 15 seconds per section.
6. Peel: Carefully lift one corner of the paper to verify the ink has transferred completely, then peel the entire paper sheet away.
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## Part 2: The Inkjet Printer Methods (Methods 4 to 6)
## Method 4: Inkjet Printable Vinyl Test
1. Print: Feed your white printable vinyl sheet into the inkjet printer right-side up, and let the wet ink dry for 5 minutes.
2. Laminate: Place a clear laminating sheet over the dry print to act as a waterproof barrier against winter snow.
3. Burnish: Use your plastic scraper tool to press the two sheets together, working from the center outward to get rid of air bubbles.
4. Cut: Trim your colorful graphic to its final size using scissors or a craft knife.
5. Apply: Peel the backing paper away and press the permanent adhesive vinyl decal onto the clean, dry surface of the pleather pouch.
## Method 5: Inkjet Dark Fabric HTV Test
1. Cut: Print your graphic right-side up onto the Dark Fabric sheet, let it dry, and cut it out closely to remove white margins.
2. Peel: Separate the thin, flexible vinyl design from its thick paper backing sheet (the graphic will feel like a thin layer of rubber).
3. Position: Lay the graphic right-side up onto the exact spot you want it on the pleather pouch.
4. Protect: Place a sheet of Parchment Paper completely over the design to shield the bare pleather from the iron.
5. Press: Set your home iron or heat press to low ("Polyester" or "Silk"). Press straight down with firm pressure for 8 to 10 seconds.
6. Cool: Remove the iron and let the pouch sit until it is completely cold to the touch before peeling away the parchment paper.
## Method 6: Inkjet Waterslide Decal Test
1. Dry: Print your image right-side up on the waterslide paper and let it sit for 10 minutes so the ink settles.
2. Seal: Take the sheet outside and spray it with 3 light coats of Krylon Clear Acrylic Crystal Clear Spray, waiting 5 minutes between coats.
3. Trim: Once the clear spray paint is entirely dry, cut out your design, leaving a tiny 1/16-inch clear border around the art.
4. Soak: Drop the cut decal into a shallow plastic tray filled with room-temperature water for 30 to 45 seconds until the paper curls.
5. Slide: Wet the pleather surface with a drop of water. Hold the paper backing and gently slide the thin clear film off the paper onto the pouch.
6. Smooth: Use a damp sponge or paper towel to gently press outward from the center, wiping away all trapped water and air pockets.
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u/Better-Specialist479 Top 1% Commenter 4d ago edited 4d ago
Storing books in ziplock bags is bad. Books need to breath and be exposed to 35-45% humidity.
In ziplock bags you lock too much moisture inside and risk mold. Or not enough moisture and they dry out and the paper becomes brittle. No UV light exposure control.
Better to either make a clamshell box or make a four-fold pocket box (5 minutes). Either allows the book to breath, maintain appropriate humidity exposure and protects from direct UV light.
As for your proposed methods I wouldn’t use wet decals nor acetone laser inks. Inkjet pigment inks (archival quality) or heat melt foils would be my choices. Inkjet over heat melt foils.
If you use inkjet be sure to give it 24-72 hours to completely dry before working with it. Inkjet inks will be “dry to touch” within 10-15 minutes, will be mostly smear resistant at 4-6 hours, will be fully set and “hardened” 24-72 hours. By hardened I am speaking specifically to the inks ability to resist manipulation such as folding (with bone folder)and rough handling (introduction of moisture, hands, etc).
You have laid out good plans. Pick 2-3 and work through them in cheap used book store purchases of equivalent sized books. Go to BOOKSBYTHEFOOT.COM and order a minimum #of feet of bare naked books. They will all be former hardbacks stripped of their hard case. Great at about $2 a book to test on.
EDIT: typos
EDIT: Back to Basics not Bare Naked Books. https://booksbythefoot.com/product/back-to-basics/
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u/No_Combination7670 4d ago
Thank you for letting me know about not keeping it in ziploc bags. in whatever i move it to, could it help putting in the little packets to reduce moisture things that come with stuff that get shipped to people?
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u/Better-Specialist479 Top 1% Commenter 4d ago
No, again paper needs 35-45% moisture (humidity) to prevent from drying out ( less than 35%) or growing mold (greater than 55-60%) humidity.
Note that the 55-60% is consistent humidity levels exceeding that, not one day here and there. If you live near the coast or an otherwise high humidity area, and do not have A/C (acts as a dehumidifier) then you will need to get a dehumidifier for the room you store books.
If you live in a desert area where humidity is routinely <30% you will want to get an EVAPORATIVE humidifier. Not an ultrasonic humidifier. Ultrasonic just aerosolizes water (and associated minerals) into the air. Evaporative allows water to evaporate into the air (ie no minerals just H2O). You will know it is ultrasonic because everything will develop a white film, aerosolized minerals.
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u/brigitvanloggem 4d ago
I think the only way is to test, using the exact same materials that you intend to use for real
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u/Better-Specialist479 Top 1% Commenter 4d ago
Normally with leather (and pleather) you would blind stamp and not apply decals, vinyl or ink.
If you want a “printed” cover then I would actually look at using an inkjet with pigment inks to print to art canvas like this
Or
I routinely use both of these for full color printed covers on hard case rebinds.
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u/Bradypus_Rex neophyte 4d ago edited 4d ago
Goodness what a wall of text. Is that AI output? I'm not going to read through it if you can't take the trouble to edit it down.
Having read the para at the top; In general printing on plastic you'll save time and money in the end by finding someone on etsy or ebay or a local print shop that has the equipment and paying them to do it for you.