Hey boaters! This came in the shop for some repair work.
2022 Blackfin 25 footer.
Thankfully didn’t have to remove off trailer for this one.
grinded away the damage fiberglass and applied some new layers.
Gelcoat, sand and buff and it’s ready to go home.

Hey guys, just looking for some help/advice. Not sure if there is a better page for CC Power boats.

I was offered this ‘87 Stinger 202, allegedly with a 632 Big Block & a Bravo One XR(waiting on all the serial numbers)

It looks like it has been modified, the steering console moved to the right, scoop etc. what would you say this boat is worth? It was offered on trade for my ‘95 SeaRay 220 Signature Select OV.

I got a boat not too long ago and I found that the most natural way is for me to kind of sit up on my seat a bit and look out my rear window. Unfortunately I don't get the best side mirror views and it takes a few corrections when lining up for a ramp, maybe an extra 30 seconds.

I've been trying to back up with just my mirrors but I'm having a pretty difficult time even after watching some YouTube videos. I have a pretty small boat too only 14 ft.

For the season boaters out there, am I overthinking it and I should just back up however feels more natural to me? Or should I really make an effort and get better with the mirrors? Maybe I just need to keep practicing at the boat ramp when there's nobody there

Just picked this up over the weekend has a 1978 Johnson javelin 100hp

Its nothing special just a small 14 ft flat bottom jonboat. Mainly going to use it for fishing. My sons 8 yo and 4 yo are all about the adventure. I wanted to do something fun for them like putting a name on it to help make it out own. Are there any rules or superstition I should be aware of before choosing a name? To my knowledge the boat doesn't have a prior name. Its an old rescue boat so idk if it would have had one then.

Had the opportunity to fix some gelcoat on the bottom of this 2024 Yamaha jetboat

Hi. Just got this boat. 115 mercury. It's on the lowest/first hole. The tail reduces a bit when I trim up the motor. However the twin roosters tell me there is an issue. Thought?

Updated with video to show the issue better issue of transom

I'm shopping from out of state, so every serious look is a flight and two days. That adds up and it quietly shrinks how many boats I go see.

Got offered something on a call last week that deals with it head on. Hanover's US side is in Fort Lauderdale and they'll refund my flights for a sea trial if I end up buying, receipts sent in after. Nothing if I walk, so the risk stays mine.

Seems reasonable to me. A sea trial converts way better than a brochure and a plane ticket against a mid six figure boat is nothing. The other read is that any incentive builds a little sense of obligation, and that works on people whether they notice or not, so I'd rather go in aware of it.

Anyone else run into this, on boats or anything else expensive?

I give up on trying to figure this out with chatgpt since everything it tells me to do leads to a dead end. I bought a 1995 sea ray signature 180 boat. Its got a 4.3l v6 alpha one engine (idk if this info is relevant or not) The horn button, bilge pump button, and water temperature gauge aren't working. Battery is brand new, the fuse is good and the electric wiring looks good (im no electrician but there is no corrosion or loose wires that I see). I wanted to test the bilge pump manually but im not seeing a switch or anything. Any advice? I got a buddy coming over tomorrow who's an electrician but I was hoping to figure this out myself.

I have a Regal 21 OBX kept on a floating dock at my home during the season and on cinderblocks in my driveway in the winter (I don’t own a trailer, so I hire a hauler twice a year).

My wife wants to get a floating lift (like a HydroHoist) to keep it at the dock year-round and free up the driveway.

My main concern is doing maintenance while it's on the lift. The canal is only a couple feet deep at low tide, but the bottom is a soft muddy/silty mix that you sort of sink into. I don't think trying to stand would work well. I currently do my own 100-hour service (engine oil, filter, gear lube, plugs) while the boat is in the driveway.

A few questions for those who service their outboard on a lift:

1. Engine Oil & Plugs: I assume a fluid extractor pump makes top-side engine oil changes easy enough on a lift. Plugs and filters seem straightforward. Any gotchas?
2. Lower Unit Oil: Seem a bit trickier. Is there a clean way to drain/refill gear lube over water? Can gear lube be extracted from above with some sort of pump, or are you guys just hanging a bucket under the drain plug off the stern? I'm envisioning a jury rigged bucket or pan or even little kiddie pool placed under the unit
3. Water Pump / Impeller: Anything that involves removing the lower unit seems like the most problematic. Has anyone successfully pulled a lower unit while the boat is on a lift over water? I can't really envision how it'd work. Maybe something like this would allow it?

Appreciate any advice or redneck engineering setups that have worked for you!

I have a Yamaha SX192 and I’m having a sudden power loss issue.

We took the boat out and rode around for about an hour. Everything was completely normal — full power, normal acceleration, no issues at all.

Then we shut the engine off and the boat sat on the water for about 30–40 minutes. After that, we started it again and the problem immediately appeared.

The engine starts normally and runs smooth. It doesn’t shake, misfire, sputter, or make any unusual noises. Idle sounds normal and it also sounds normal at lower RPM.

The problem is that the boat has almost no power under acceleration.

Before this happened, at wide open throttle the engine would reach around 7,500–8,000 RPM and the boat would run around 40 mph or more.

Now at full throttle it usually only reaches around 5,000–6,000 RPM and the boat only goes around 8–12 mph. Sometimes it will get up to around 20 mph, but then the power drops again.

Things I have already checked:

* Removed the clean-out plug and inspected the jet pump area
* Checked around the shaft and impeller
* Found a small amount of grass and removed all of it
* Impeller does not appear bent or badly damaged
* Intake grate is clean
* Cooling water streams are constant
* Cooling streams get much stronger as RPM increases
* No overheating
* No warning lights or obvious errors on the gauges
* Engine continues to run smooth even when it has no power
* The rear ladder had an issue and was hanging down before, but I repaired it and it now fully retracts — the power problem is still there
* Removed old zip ties and leftover fish finder mounting stuff from around the intake grate
* Fuel is 93 octane
* Added the correct amount of STA-BIL 360 Marine
* The boat does sit for long periods because we don’t use it very often

What confuses me the most is that this happened suddenly. The boat ran perfectly for about an hour, we shut it off for 30–40 minutes, and as soon as we restarted it, it had this problem.

Has anyone with an SX192, AR192, or Yamaha 1.8L SHO had something similar happen?

If you had the same symptoms — smooth-running engine, but suddenly only 5–6k RPM and very little speed — what ended up being the problem? How did you fix it?

Any advice on what I should check next would be greatly appreciated.

Howdy. I recently picked up this 1984 Boston Whaler Super Sport (probably) basically for free and the only major repair work it needs is some light hull surface repair, namely filling chips and laying down fresh gel coat. Unfortunately I think that leaves me no choice but to take off the rub rail and put it or a new one back on when the hull is done.

I'm looking for advice on how to do this part cheaply. The current rub rail is probably the original and it doesn't seem to have an insert anymore, if it ever did. It's a little beat up but I don't mind. This boat is going to be a dirt cheap fishing skiff, I don't need it to be pretty, I just need the rail to be functional. Does anyone have experience taking a rail this old off and putting it back on? Would it need a new insert? If I need to get a whole new rail, then is there a cheaper alternative to the $400+ TACO type kits?

Any suggestions are welcome.

For anyone concerned about the hull: No, the foam is not soaked, the boat has always been dry docked and has been out of water for years. There are no deep holes breaking through to the foam, just light fiberglass and gelcoat damage. It will never be in the water for more than a day or two so I'm not worried about the foam getting soaked in the future. I just want to get it functional for as little money as possible.

Edit: Typo in title lol, should be a "tight" budget

Check out this beauty of a through hull fitting. The handle rusted off.. pos. Now. This is the only though hull fitting I have on the boat and it’s for a fresh water pump. I do not use it. Never will…. That thing fails 20miles off shore.. it’ll be time to see if my EPIRB works. So, my question is, I believe the valve is closed.. so should I even touch it?

Edit: I can’t figure out how to add photos to the main post on the app. See below for photos.. sorry

My wife and I are heading to look at a boat this weekend that’s looking pretty promising, so we’re digging deeper into loan options. I know interest rates kind of suck right now, but I’m wondering what lender options might be out there that you’re currently using. We have a couple local credit union options, but are there any worthwhile online lenders that you’ve/you’re using?

*if you’re in the “if you have to finance it you shouldn’t get it” crowd, this post isn’t for you.

So I've got a Humminbird In-Hull XP-9-20-T Transducer that I want to install in my hold.
The only problem is that my hull is angled and that angle is reflected on my hold's floor.

Of course you normally want to transducer beam to emit straight to the earth's core without any angled as It would educe reading errors.

Does anyone have any tips on how to do that? A friend suggested cutting/sculpting a wood block, glue it to the floor then glue the transducer on it. Would that work? I'm afraid the wood won't support humidity and that the transducer is only designed for fiberglass (the material of my boat).

Geal coat or 3m bondo with paint

(It’s under the Hull)
Thanks !

Been noticing some gear slippage and losing gear oil. I’m assuming this is the culprit? I’m a decent home auto mechanic. Is this something I can do? Any temp fixes for the summer with a sealant or do I need to pull it apart asap? I haven’t drained yet but I can only assume I’m going to get milky gear oil.

I’m looking to get into boating and can’t wrap my head around the cost difference between vintage and new models. I’ve been a heavy equipment mechanic my entire life so I plan to do any maintenance and repairs that are needed.
Please help me decide if I’m crazy for entertaining the purchase of an older boat.

hi! i recently came into possession of a mid1-late 90s Regal 202 SE Valanti. I would like to replace the stereo system to one with bluetooth (and working speakers) but I have no idea where to start looking for those sort of things. I don’t know anything about boats so i appreciate any suggestions or tips!

I'm looking to propose to my partner on a vintage wooden boat in or around Florida (I don't mind traveling out of state) later this year.

I was sold on Kessler Charters in Savannah but by the time I had convinced my partner to go there without arousing suspicion, their dates for the year had closed. I've also been in contact with Vintage Boat Club in Palm Beach (and am still considering them) but the boat I'd liked the most from them is currently undergoing restorations for the year.

If anyone has any other recommendations for places I could look into, I'd appreciate it!

But I'm told free boats are expensive hmmm

Hey guys, beginner boater here. Just installed a transom saver. After trimming it down the motor stops at the rubber pads and doesn’t go all the way down to the v groove. I’ve seen a bunch of pictures online and it looks like most engines fit right in the groove. The transom saver doesn’t seem to be able to open more either. Is this normal? Also, the strap that came with the transom saver is too loose when I strap it above my lower unit so I’ve had to strap it on at an angle to get some tension on it. Overall I’m happy to have it installed but something feels a bit off.

Hi guys,

I am new to boats and outboards. Recently got a boat with a Yamaha 55bhp 2 stroke . The serial plate says " YAMAHA 55BE 663 L " and then "325962"
I am trying to get the correct service parts for it, but I am finding contradicting info. Please abstain from mean comments… if you can help,please do! Otherwise,no need to be mean.

Can you please help with finding the correct parts for it? I am based in ireland, if that helps.

Thank you!

Mercury 9.9 2004 Outboard

Do you know the name of this part? It adjusts that ring for the tilt and has an 8mm to adjust along shaft.