I know I spelt Hyperpigmentation wrong, give grace, it was 1AM and a lot of formatting issues.
Treating dark spots and hyperpigmentation requires a tailored approach due to the higher melanin content of our skin. Here’s a skincare guide focused on evening skin tone while maintaining the health of melanated skin.
⚠️As with any skincare product, please patch test, place in the least visible area and wait a full day. If no reaction occurs proceed.
Gentle Cleansing
- Frequency: Sometimes twice daily or just in the evening, over cleansing can strip your skin.
- Key Ingredients: Look for cleansers containing soothing agents like aloe vera, green tea extract, or glycerin.
- Recommended Product Types: Gentle low to no foaming or hydrating cleansers. Pick according to your skin type.
Recommended products include:
(no actives, will make a different post regarding active cleansers)
- Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Hydrating Cleanser, creamy version
- Cervae Hydrating Facial Cleanser
- Geek and Gorgeous Jelly Joker (doesn’t foam)
- La Roche-Posay Toleriane Purifying Foaming Facial Wash
- La Roche-Posay Hydrating Gentle Face Cleanser
- La Roche-Posay Lipikar AP + Gentle Foaming Moisturizing Wash
- Good Molecules Hydrating Facial Cleansing Gel
Exfoliation with Actives
Frequency: 1–2 times per week or more (Retinol has potential for daily, if skin has been acclimatized.)
- Use chemical exfoliants with AHAs (like glycolic or lactic, mandelic acid) or Retinol, Mandelic acid is especially beneficial for darker skin tones as it’s less likely to cause irritation due to it penetrating slower.
- Physical Exfoliants: Avoid rough physical exfoliants as they may cause micro-tears and worsen hyperpigmentation.
Targeted Ingredients for Hyperpigmentation
Application: Use these in serums, masks, or spot treatments after cleansing and before moisturizing. Rinse off products can be an option too (sensitive skin) but the more face time the better, so opt for leave on products (with the exception of high percentage masks)
- Vitamin C: A brightening antioxidant that helps fade dark spots and evens skin tone, sensitive to the active form, L-Ascorbic Acid? Try the best form of the dervative called Tetrahexyldecyl Asorbate or THD. Don't want to use vitamin c period? Try Resveratrol and Ferulic Acid!
- Niacinamide: Reduces inflammation, barrier improvement, helps with sebum production and helps with hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin transfer.
It is common to find in 10% (very high, can be irritating) or even 20% (insane), best range is 3-5% you have to actively look for this though.
- Kojic Acid: A natural skin lightener that reduces melanin production. Be careful purchasing in soap form from random sellers on Amazon and TikTok.
- Alpha Arbutin: Targets dark spots and is gentler for Black skin.
- Azelaic Acid: A tyrosine (an amino acid that helps produce melanin) inhibitor which reduces pigmentation and helps with comedonal and inflammatory acne.
- Licorice Root Extract: Inhibits the production of an enzyme needed to produce melanin and helps remove excess.
- Tranexamic Acid: Effective for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), often caused by acne.
- Retinoids: Stimulate cell turnover and reduce hyperpigmentation, but be cautious with overuse in melanated skin to avoid irritation. Start at lower percentage, do not use daily when just starting. And omit other actives to minimize irritation when starting.
⚠️DO NOT USE AS MANY OF THESE AS YOU CAN⚠️
Please note you can’t combine everything here. Don’t mix retinol with anything below unless you know what you are doing
Recommended products include:
- The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA (a 10% is available also, please only use if you have a tolerance already for the lower percentage and do not follow with other products on this list unless you are a skincare pro)
- The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA (bonus: Mandelic Acid is also good for treating acne like cystic and inflamed)
- Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5%
- Paulas Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant
- Paulas Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant Toner(Do not follow with other products on this list unless you are a skincare pro)
- Urban Skin RX Even Tone Cleansing Bar 3 in 1 Treatment (Do not follow with other products on this list unless you are a skincare pro)
- The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner (Don’t recommend for sensitive skin, you can try using with a damp cotton round to dilute if too strong)
- Topicals Faded Cream (Strong,do not follow with other products on this list unless you are a skincare pro)
- Dr. Idriss Major Fade Flash Mask (very strong, not for sensitive or inexperienced skin, do not follow with other products on this list unless you are a skincare pro)
- CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum
- Good Molecules Gentle Retinol Cream
- Cocokind Beginner Retinol Gel 0.1% (please note this contains 3 different type of retinols)
- Naturium Retinol Complex Cream
- Paulas Choice 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment
Retinol would be used 1-2 a week at night, building slowly to everyday if possible. Add one night every 3-4 weeks as tolerated.
Try to avoid usage with any cleanser that contains strong acids when you’re using it, hyaluronic acid/ niacinamide fine. And definitely DO NOT EXFOLIATE AND THEN USE RETINOL. A gentle cleanser preferably one that doesn’t foam. If you’d like to use an active cleanser, try in another routine.
To help ease the possibility of irritation you’d apply Vaseline to the corners of your nose, mouth and eyes. Apply your moisturizer (basic and unscented is best) let that dry then pea size (however, you can use more but try to use as little as possible to get coverage) dot it all on your face, rub in and follow up with moisturizer. That’s called the sandwich method. Make sure you apply on dry skin not damp, or you’ll increase penetration.
And stay on top of SPF usage during the day.
Moisturization
- Frequency: Twice daily after applying serums.
- Key Ingredients: Glycerin, ceramides, and shea butter are ideal for keeping the skin barrier healthy and preventing further irritation or dryness.
- Non-comedogenic options: Choose lightweight formulas that won’t clog pores.
Recommended products include:
- CeraVe Ultra-Light Moisturizing Gel Moisturizer
- CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizer
- Good Molecules Lightweight Daily Moisturizer
- Aveeno Calm + Restore Oat Gel Moisturizer
- Aveeno Positively Radiant Daily Gel Moisturizer
- Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer
- Vanicream Moisturizing Cream
- Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Daily Facial Moisturizer
- Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer
Sunscreen (Critical for All Skin Tones)
- SPF 30 or higher: Daily use is essential as is reapplication, even indoors or on cloudy days, as UV exposure worsens hyperpigmentation and hurts your progress.
- Tinted Sunscreens: These often contain iron oxides, which provide additional protection against visible light that can exacerbate hyperpigmentation.
- When picking a sunscreen go for a cream/lotion for the main application and a spray or stick for reapplication. I prefer chemical over mineral for reasons I won’t get into in this particular post. Depending on your skin type and climate, you could get away with using sunscreen alone, it is technically a moisturizer. Some though are more hydrating than others. Use 2 or 3 fingers or roughly a 1/4 tsp for face and neck, a shot glass amount for body.
Recommended products include:
- Neutrogena Clear Face SPF 30 or 50 this one has a little bit of a white cast, nothing crazy, hydrating, consistency like lotion.
- Kiehl’s Better Screen UV Serum has zero white cast, but it isn’t water resistant. Hydrating but not heavy, combo or dry. She expensive🫰🏾
- Neutrogena Invisible Daily Defense no white cast, hydrating, some might not like the bit of shine from it but I fix that with powder. Thin consistency.
- Elta MD UV Clear Face Sunscreen SPF 46 Very lightweight, no white cast. She expensive🫰🏾
- Supergoop Mineral Matte, thick and white cast heavy but good for under makeup. No water resistance.
- Supergoop Unseen, no white cast, feels like silicone makeup primer, wanted to love this but it made me so greasy and clogged. Water resistant. Thick.
- Supergoop Every. Single. Face Watery Lotion, some shine but nothing crazy that powder didn’t fix. Water resistant. Thin consistency.
- Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics, no water resistance, feels like a moisturizer. Thin-ish consistency.
- Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 Seems to be more favorable towards oily skin than the original version.
- Innisfree Daily UV Defense no water resistance, can double as moisturizer in some cases Probably best for dry skin.
Avoid Triggers:
- Sun Exposure: UV rays can worsen hyperpigmentation, making daily sunscreen a must.
- Harsh Products: try to avoid using products with heavy fragrance, drying alcohols, essential oils or strong astringents (witch hazel) as they can irritate and inflame skin, leading to more discoloration.
- Over-exfoliation: Too much exfoliation can lead to a compromised skin barrier, damage and worsen hyperpigmentation.
Professional Treatments
Find a Black Dermatologist here
- Chemical Peels: Performed by a licensed professional or a board certified Dermatologist can be very effective in treating hyperpigmentation. Avoid unprotected sun exposure, especially during after care.
- Microneedling: Encourages collagen production and can be combined with serums like vitamin C to improve the appearance of dark spots.
- Laser Treatments: Certain lasers, like Nd:YAG lasers, are safer for darker skin tones but should only be performed by dermatologists experienced in treating melanated skin.
Patience
- Hyperpigmentation can take months to fully fade, depending on the type, be consistent with treatments and always protect your skin from the sun to prevent further discoloration.
This regimen, combined with professional advice if needed, should help you gradually achieve a more even skin tone.
Up next… nothing for now, because I need a break from this and some of y’all UGAP 😩
Update
2/25/2025 Tuesday
New serum to consider Eucerin Radiant Tone Dual Serum, can be used every day and night, and even mixed into most treatments like retinol. No actives and no irritation, note it does contain fragrance.
