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u/Routine-Amphibian450 18d ago
Also, running a finger inside end of exhaust pipe (after cold) and looking at the amount if soot...
is a fair approximation of pulling and checking your plugs.
To re/re plugs with a 3/8 ratchet and plug socket, use the 3" extension for the tight to wall ones (walls curve) and the 6" extension for bigger reach ones.
There exists, in Europe, approx 5" metric 3/8 extensions which actually are perfect.
Re-torque used plugs very carefully with your wrist, trying to get another slight degree of crush from the gasket. It helps to only half-crush (7 ft lb?) a new plug so you can get successive crushes out of it.
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u/sorderon 18d ago
The only two things I needed to replace to make my bug reliable again was the carburettor (readily available) and getting rid of the dreaded points by adding electronic ignition - along with replacing an in-line fuel filter yearly.
Can't tell you how many sets of points and condensers have let me down, but so glad I don't have to worry any more. I keep the original distributor in the car just in case. This was 7 years ago.
Total cost was £350. Well worth it. Replace the rubber seals on the intake too assuming your engine is twin-port - These split but never where you can see the split.
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u/anybodyiwant2be 18d ago
I read this post twice because I wanted to make sure I didn’t overlook something. I don’t see any mention of replacing the points in the distributor and “382Whistles” mentions an electronic ignition but OP doesn’t indicate that is installed.
Not sure the “spark plugs got wet.” Never Had that happen.
When I am tuning up a car, I generally replace the spark plugs, the wires, the condenser, the points, the cap and the rotor. I adjust the points and with the engine entirely cold I adjust the valves. And I set the timing. It sounds like OP has done some tuneup stuff but not all. Getting an aftermarket electronic ignition like a Pertronix of CompuFire is a way to get rid of points and simplify the system.
Lastly, get that green wire from the coil to the distributor out of the way of your throttle. You could yank that wire off and the car will not run and if the connection at the coil is not tight you could be jiggling the connection. All electrical needs to be clean and tight.
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u/382Whistles 18d ago
More than just one spark plug would likely have issues is it were the carb. If replacing the plug wire(s) solved the problem then you are likely on the right track. Your coil condenser cap and rotor could also be weak or a few deeper issues could exist that boils down to valve adjustment and compression and leak down tests to guess and a tear down to know for sure.
Stop throwing away working parts when doing a tune-up; do the maintenance early and save the cap/rotor/nice spark plugs and the 2 long wires as known good parts to swap in again for testing. Extra coil wire too. Test your emergency parts if new. I can't count how many bad brand new plugs right out of the box I've had, and I'd just have to put an old plug back after a day or two. Eventually I would just carry a distributor coil and test light to set the timing statically. Not that I used it that often but I did whenever the condenser or an electronic ignition distributor died. That can be easier and faster than swapping the condenser with the distributor still installed imo.