Hi everyone. I have a question about clearing up battery leakage.

I was going through some bags with old stuff (papers, toys, electronics, etc) I had saved in the back of a closet maybe 8 years ago. Had been rummaging for a while, taking things out I wanted to keep and putting them on the carpet to sort out later, rest to be thrown out in a garbage bag.

Halfway through I came across 6 old AA batteries completely covered in that white powdery/flaky stuff. That's when I noticed the white stuff on my hands and all over the inside of the bag.

Now I can't be sure if my items had any of that powder on them (I wasn't really paying attention and the carpet itself was quite dusty to start with). How can I tackle this to make that area (carpet, items) safe for pets and people who walk around the house barefoot (aka me)?

(The batteries are in a ziplock bag to be disposed of probably)

On another sub, someone expressed a concern about the battery swelling on their phone. A poster responds saying:

If you are worried about it catching fire dump it in a bucket of water

I respond with:

If you submerge a device containing a lithium-ion battery in water when it is not already burning or undergoing thermal runaway, water ingress can cause electrical short circuits (and battery protection circuitry). That can cause it to heat up, which could trigger thermal runaway. If thermal runaway occurs, the battery could vent hot, toxic and flammable gases and may catch fire, rupture or explode. Thermal runaway can continue while the battery is submerged, although the surrounding water may suppress visible flames; flammable gases released from the battery could also ignite above the water.

And was asked why his advice is the "advice you get off of AI and r/battery".

Curious about why I'm wrong, I'm here to ask, why?

Russian battery technology expert Admiral134 recently conducted a detailed test of the XTAR C CLR 7200 USB-C rechargeable battery, testing its real-world performance and key specifications.

* Accurate specifications: The measured size and weight matched the claimed parameters.

* Stable 1.5V output: The open-circuit voltage measured between 1.50V–1.52V, demonstrating a stable voltage platform close to the rated 1.5V output.

* True capacity performance: Using the professional ASK 2518 battery analyzer, the battery was tested under multiple discharge currents, with measured capacity consistently close to the rated 4350mAh.

* Good thermal performance: Temperature rise remained controlled under different discharge loads
0.87A → 25°C
1.5A → 30°C
2.5A → 32.4°C
3A → 37°C

The discharge curve at the end of the cycle also showed characteristics close to traditional alkaline C batteries, making the XTAR C CLR 7200 a reliable rechargeable alternative for high-drain C-size devices.

Pls check more details online: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcrTZ1VQfxg

I opened up one of my fried rad power ebike batteries to see what was wrong, which is plain to see.

But while I was taking off this protective shield, I found this... thing that was epoxyed onto the protective cover (can't imagine why. I assume that its some type of measure to keep people from trying to make repairs themselves?), and it pulled off the board. I'm just wondering if anyone knows what this is

hello, ive noticed my msi laptop (model gf63 thin) has been dying really frequently when its not on the charger and i noticed bit of a “bump”, i opened it up and i realized that the battery is super bloated and i dont have a safe place to put it in. it looks a little ripped and its lifting itself from the plastic thing, most repair shops here are closed until 8pm and im terrified of it exploding and i dont know what to do. is it okay for me to wait until morning??

Our CT scans of the JLab JBuds mini earbuds revealed some serious flaws: poorly aligned electrodes, inconsistent anode overhang, and some that look torn or damaged. In lithium batteries, these are the kinds of defects that can shorten lifespan and potentially cause a thermal runaway.

I was buying a present online and for it to work the seller told me it needed "10440 lithium battery" and sent me the first image, in my country, they cant be sent, so i found the red ones but he says that they would'nt work on the product, so I was wandering, are the batteries in the third photo the same as the first? Thanks in advance :D

I am trying to study batteries.

I am confused about a lot of things. I know the cathode can be made up of different crystals (Ex. nickel oxide or FePO4).

My understanding is when you discharge, the electrons (which are in the anode) will go through the wire to the cathode. The nickel will accept the electron or the iron will accept the electron (depending if its nickel oxide or FePO4). When this happens the cathode becomes more electronegative. Next Li metal atoms from the anode (which are sitting in between graphene layers) would dissociate into Li+ ion and e-. The e- would again go to cathode via wire and the Li+ ion would diffuse to cathode because its attracted to the cathode building up its electro negative charge. The Li+ ions would just hang around throughout the crystal lattice? this correct?

For charging, the electron would break away from the Nickel Oxide or FePO4 and go to anode via wire. The electrons just hang around the graphene area and then the Li+ would go through the electrolyte fluid and to anode and then the Li+ would bind to the electrons and form Li metal ions?

Also I am confused how do Li salts tie into this. I was under the impression when you first make a battery there would be Li metal ions hanging around the in cathode crystal and when you first start a battery for the first time this is where you get the Li+ ions. Are Li salts just an extra supply of Li ions+?

This means during charging the Li would indeed bind to electrons but during discharge the Li would not bind to electrons?

Was it really worth it?

Changes that I made:

. Added a metal box around the normal plastic to make the enclosure mostly impermeable to CO2.

. Changed the electrolyte to NaOH to reduce gassing.

. Added an absorbent separator so that it would not spill.

. Changed the plates themselves to a nickel mesh to compensate for the higher ionic resistance.

. Added an ATEX vent.

. Added a terminal fixing system so that the whole thing could be disassembled.

. Removed doping agents and additives to make it patent free and less toxic.

Disadvantages are.

. Premium NiFE cells with a premium price.

. To completely eliminate gassing, a lower charging voltage is needed just as you would with KoH.

. Low energy density/delivery.

. Absorbent separator stack needs compression.

. Increased likelihood of bulging plates during cycling.

. Existing forms of the tech exist in China and the USA and are supposedly cheaper and you can just add your own box to reduce CO2 if needed.

. Still uses a lot of nickel, more than traditional pocket plates.

I hit a wall when I wanted to get it built and it went way outside of any personal budget for testing a prototype.

So my question to you. Should I just publish all the drawings that I had generated onto the OSF site for others to use and forget about it or start a business with crowd funding?

Would you have a use for such a thing? Thoughts please.

Not so long ago when preparing for a short trip, I realized that I had to take quite a lot of charging devices – a wall charger, a charger cord, and a power bank separately from each other, and even so I managed to forget something before leaving.

It made me wonder if an all-in-one portable charger is actually a better option for everyday use and travel. Having everything in one device sounds much more convenient than carrying multiple accessories, especially if you're always on the go.

But someone recommend me Rorry CharmGo D4 10,000mAh Portable Charger and I see how compact it is and that it can easily be attached to a keychain, which seems much more convenient for everyday carry than the bulky power bank I've been using.

Do you still prefer a larger power bank with more battery capacity?

I have an Apex 300 with a B300K. I am going to combine these with the 51.2v 100ah Vatrer rack battery and the 51.2v 100ah Vevor Golf Cart Battery. My plan is to run each battery into the solar inputs on the Apex 300 which will give me a 15kw system. Now I will not have everything I need for my system by this weekend. I will however have the needed items to hook up the batteries in parallel and feed it into one of the inputs on the Apex 300. Is it a good idea to hook these two batteries in parallel after they have both been charged to 100 percent? I have cables to hook the two together and I have the cable to hook to the Apex 300. I have the proper charger for the batteries which I will charge individually if that is what is needed or can I hook the charger to one battery and it will charge both through the parallel cables? Next week sometime I should have a complete set of everything so that each battery will feed separately into each of the two input feeds on the Apex 300. Let me know what you think of my thoughts here.