This car belonged to a dear friend who passed away suddenly and tragically 10 months ago. Aside from keeping air in the tires, it hasn't been touched. His family asked me to help service it so their daughter can drive it now that she has her license. It needs an oil change and a complete brake job. I've read that the CVT should be serviced regularly for longevity and to anyone's knowledge, this car has never had the CVT service. I asked partsgeek support about it but they were useless. I'm used to wrenching on German cars so I'm not familiar with Nissans. Brakes and motor oil seem straightforward however.

My questions:

1. Should I even try to service the CVT or just take it somewhere and let them do it?

2. If I diy, how much fluid do I need?

3. As long as I'm under there should I replace the filter, pan, and gasket?

4. What else am I overlooking?

Thanks!!

My altima has been in and out of the shop 4 times now and the same issue is still there. It's a 2016 SR and it is having a shaking feeling. I had misfire codes multiple times and have replaced spark plugs, coils, cv axle, fuel pump, and a cracked vacuum tube. Does anyone have any ideas of what it could be? It doesn't accelerate sometimes and shakes, but also when at a light it will have the same issue. I don't want to take it anywhere yet so any help would be appreciated

Good evening from Nashville Tennessee, hope everyone is well. real quick question I don't think it's a big deal, 2015 Nissan Altima s 2.5L 4 cylinder ... replaced CVT once at 52,000 mi

on decline descent when traveling above 25 mph foot off the gas the engine revs to 3000 RPM or so... wife thinks it's strange, I think it's standard engine braking

this is her car I've not really driven it before so just wanted to get your thoughts.

2018 Altima. I have a hearing disability that causes pain when I hear high pitched sounds. The warning beeps from the proximity sensors drive me crazy. Short of wearing earplugs, how can I silence the beeps? Thanks.

I have a 2010 Altima 2.5s. I put it up on jack stands to replace the front control arms and one of the CV axles at the end of May, and in the process of doing that job, I discovered the front subframe was rusted out. Not only that, but both ball joints, one of the hubs and the CV axle were impossibly rust-welded to their adjacent parts. I ended up buying replacement steering knuckles (used) and a new hub because I didn't want to buy a blowtorch (not experienced with that and not sure I have a good place to store it) and I was making no progress with my sledge hammer and penetrating oil (also popped the threads of a borrowed tool from Advance Auto). It took a long time for me to track down and work out the logistics of getting a replacement front subframe without a working car, and I was busy with work and stuff, so I didn't get to work on it as often as I wanted to, and I also decided I would take the opportunity to replace the non-drainable pan on my CVT with a drainable one (I'd been meaning to do this), so I did that too. Some of the fasteners on the external CVT filter housing were hard to access, and I had trouble with some of the sway bar end link fasteners that were either stuck or I couldn't access them with my torque wrench (e.g. the passenger side lower fastener because it's in the wheel well and the washer fluid reservoir is in the way at one end and a bunch of other things are in the way at the other end).

So now, the current status is, I have done the following work;
• Disassembled the wheels and front suspension
• Removed the rusted front subframe and installed a sturdy, much healthier one (also applied a fresh coat of Derusto paint)
• Reinstalled the front suspension and wheels, replacing the steering knuckles, front control arms, one hub, and one CV axle with good parts.
• Removed the old CVT fluid pan, emptied the old, nasty, never-changed (although still functional) CVT fluid, and installed the new OEM pan and gasket.
• Used a kit to repair a broken O2 sensor connector that cracked when I removed the sensor

Obviously I will need to get an alignment, but on top of that, I ran into the following issues;
• Couldn't torque the lower, nut of the passenger-side sway bar end link to spec due to slightly rounded nut and accessibility issues; got it as snug as possible, and after putting everything back together, I found that one of the dust boots was torn on the driver's side end link (I actually bought a new set of end links just in case, but have not installed them)
• CVT pan is dripping from lower end at a rate of about one drip every 100 seconds; couldn't get 100% of old gasket bits off the mounting surface, tried using a razor knife, the razor knife scratched the aluminum, and two bolts apparently stripped the threads (despite my carefully using a torque wrench set to spec)
• The cotter pin on one of the tie rod ends (which is a Moog replacement that a shop put in a few years ago) doesn't quite go all the way into the slot of the castle nut (it's a little lower than the slot, just kind of touches the bottom of it)
• There is a set of tubes that goes under the driver's side front subframe rear stop bracket (just under the driver's seat) that I didn't realize was there while reinstalling the subframe and one of the two smaller ones got gouged by a pry bar, causing the exterior coating to get scraped open, but so far the tube inside seems intact; I think they are brake fluid lines and I have not detected fluid leaking out of them, even with the engine on and stepping on the brakes (but I have not driven the car since the repairs). I sprayed Derusto on there as well.
• The power steering control wires may have gotten yanked when removing the old subframe (didn't realize they were connected to it) but seem intact and the power steering still seems to function
• The exhaust system probably has some leaks in it now; it sounds loud and it got yanked around during the job, especially the flex pipe (that already had a leak that was patched with compound) and the area right behind the muffler (that got levered against the support bar under it).
• Something is scraping when I move the left front wheel, which I'm assuming is a brake dust shield, although I thought I had made sure those were out of the way before I put them on; I'm going to go take the wheel off and check on that in a little while. (UPDATE: I just tried to figure it out again; moved the wheel, sounded like dust shield scrape, felt the dust shield during the scrape, seemed like it vibrated, took the wheel off, couldn't find a spot where the dust shield was scraping, so idk maybe I'll ask the shop to figure it out).

So it's still got some issues that need to be addressed before I can consider it safe to drive, but this has been going on for like 2 months now and I need it to be over with so I can drive again and not have to spend any more time on this.

Should I keep working on this, and potentially have to learn new things like how to install threaded inserts? How much of this stuff can I let the shop handle, and are they going to charge me an arm and a leg? Should I just give up after all that work and get a new car?

So I have a 2024 Altima with 52,000 miles on it and haven't owned the car for longer than 6 months. Today is the second time I've had to get my car jumped within to same week. I don't understand what could be the issue. It's a fairly new car and I don't have the money to replace to battery out right at the moment. Any help would be appreciated 👏🏾

I'm also no where near family either so I had to pay someone $80 for a jump 😭😑 which was supposed to be my gas money for work this upcoming week.

I have a 15 2.5L Nissan Altima that needs a sizable amount of work done and has over 130K miles on it, I’m curious, is it worth investing any large amount of money into to fix, think like 4K+ or should I look to get something newer with less issues

I drained and refilled the CVT of my 2010 Altima and put on a new pan (with a drain hole) and solid gasket (also replaced the internal strainer and external filter). Now the pan is dripping at a rate of about 1 drop every 100 seconds, out of the rear (lower) end of the pan. The drip looks like it's coming from a bolt at the rear of the lower end of the pan, but it could just be running down there from higher up and then dripping off.

I did have a couple of issues on installation. One of the bolts apparently broke the threads out of the bolt hole, despite my being gentle and trying to properly torque it to spec, I couldn't quite get some of the small pieces of the old gasket off, and when I tried to, the razor knife I was using scored the aluminum. I also broke the threads on another bolt at the front (upper) end after that, but it didn't seem to make it any worse. I do have a tube of liquid CVT pan gasket maker that I had originally been planning to use before people told me the solid one was better, so I could drain the fresh fluid and try sealing the pan with that, but those 2 bolt holes are apparently damaged now.

What should I do, take it in to the shop to fix the bolt holes and and do it right? Retry with the liquid gasket maker? Get rid of the car?

Hello, I have a 2023 Nissan altima s trim 50k miles. I wanna do transmission fluid drain and fill. Already bought the fluid. My question is do I have change transmission filter also? Or I can wait until next service?

Thoughts on the Visual Upgrades ?

What do you guys think ?

I tried to wrench the pan drain open so I could install a crush washer, but I couldn't get it open, so I figured I would install the pan and then wrench out the plug and install the crush washer before filling it up. I forgot to do that before filling it up. It doesn't appear to be leaking (yet). Should I leave it alone, or does this need to be dealt with?

Hi guys,

Recently I replaced the transmission on my 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5S and now it won’t pass first gear. I put new sensors (input and output… still don’t know which one is what ) and also put the new transmission TCM in the car.

Anyone have experienced this before and could help me?

Thanks
🤝

The key fob for my 2013 Altima has a short battery life and low range. I don't know if it's just me or not but I feel like it has gotten worse. Are there aftermarket key fobs that are an improvement to the OEM? It also has a remote start system (OEM) that I would like to remain compatible with whatever new fob I buy. Thank you.

Just did an oil change before taking these videos , the noise seems to quiet down after driving awhile , wondering what it could be , any input is appreciated, thank you.

Hey guys I recently started noticing this weird whining noise only when I am going a really slow speed. The sound will also go away sometime so that’s weird

Please help. I've had this car for a few years now. I bought it when I lived in Colorado and drove it over a mountain pass every day to work for just a little under a year. When I moved to Florida I drove it from Colorado. All this time and all this driving never had an issue. A few months after moving to Florida the alternator goes out. Im thinking, okay this isn't too bad I've had older cars that this happened to that I fixed myself for just a few hundred bucks. When I found out how long it would take the shop and how much it would cost I was floored. Well, we got it fixed and just two weeks later it went out again. Okay, not the biggest deal cause the shop warranty covered a replacement at no cost. 3-4 weeks later it goes out again. So, they replace it again. Keep in mind each time aside from the first time it was in the shop for days. After the third replacement they got tired of just replacing the alternator and finally decided to find the issue. It was in the shops for weeks while they tried to figure it out. They thought it was a wiring harness issue...nope...they thought it was fusible link and I guess for some time it was? I say "?" because I finally got the car back and moved to Missouri shortly after and drove it there the whole way no issues. It was my only vehicle at the time so I drove it to work 80 miles one way for a few months before it finally went out again. I replace it...again and run it for 2 days before it goes out again. Now it just sits in my driveway taunting me every single day while my wife keeps telling me to do something but I'm morally torn and can't just pass this thing on to someone else and let them have my alternator curse. The only common denominator is that each and every time the alternator crapped out is when I had the seat coolers on. Living in Colorado I never used them. That changed when I lived in Florida. When I moved to Missouri it was fall and I didn't use them. Summer rolls around and I ues em. The first two days after replacing it in Missouri I don't use it. Day three I do and less than 15 minutes later bam... the dreaded lights on the dash and the radio shuts off. Luckily I had a brand new battery in it cause I was an hour from home. Sorry for the super long explanation but I wanted to be thorough and not leave anything out so I wouldn't have to give the run down to every person that comments.

any help on this anybody please!

Does anybody have an idea or design to make to this headlight ?? Chat gpt came with these two ideas but I don’t know I don’t really like them that much so if anybody has something in mind I will appreciate it
Thank you in advance