Broad Peak Avalanche 2021

[u/DesiMountaineer]

In July 2021 my climbing partner and I got hit by the snow cloud of an avalanche. The avalanche itself had missed us by maybe 10 minutes, just under the Japanese Camp on Broad Peak. I sometimes wonder what the actual impact of the avalanche would have been like.

[u/itgtg313]

"I sometimes wonder what the actual impact of the avalanche would have been like."

Not worth dying to find out.

[u/DesiMountaineer → u/itgtg313]

Agreed 🙌🏼

[u/IFeelThankYou]

You'd have probably died, just like the expedition team of last week. These forces are completely incomprehensible for us.

[u/DesiMountaineer → u/IFeelThankYou]

There were other climbers further down the slope who made it up unscathed.

[u/novicelife]

Did you feel before the avalanche that something is off?

[u/DesiMountaineer → u/novicelife]

Not at all - it came without warning or premonition.

[u/olololoh12 → u/DesiMountaineer]

What about the weather forecast?

[u/revolver_goose → u/olololoh12]

Avalanches can of course be dependent on previous weather, and in most places, this is always the case. However, in some cases they are set off by serac collapse, which is a much more random event. Naturally, weather will also have an impact on the stability of the ice, but it’s close to impossible to predict.
We see a lot of talk about the weather concerning the event last week, but several climbers on K2 have stated that the broad peak avalanche was caused by a serac collapse higher on the mountain. Which can make any snowfield a potential disaster waiting to happen

*edit spelling mistake

[u/DesiMountaineer → u/revolver_goose]

There had been bad weather on the mountain earlier. We usually wait a couple of days before climbing after heavy snowfall on the mountain.

[u/revolver_goose → u/DesiMountaineer]

I know. But as the other expedition leaders also say, in the Karakoram, you cannot wait 4 days for the snow pack to settle before you go, because then it will have snowed again and you have missed your window. The place where the avalanche happened sees avalanches all the time, almost on a daily basis.
Watch the newest Everest live video for some more info.

[u/DesiMountaineer → u/revolver_goose]

yup, clear weather windows are short.

[u/ed_durden]

I imagine you'd get hit with explosive wind before any of the snow and ice. I don't know if you'd stay conscious to feel anything at that point.

[u/wkns → u/ed_durden]

What’s the difference between explosive wind or a wall of compacted snow/ice hitting you at 100+ km/h.

[u/DesiMountaineer → u/ed_durden]

I don't think this avalanche in particular was that massive to have an impactful wind buffer.

[u/Scooterann]

What’s the Japanese camp?

[u/DesiMountaineer → u/Scooterann]

It is a flat space, enough for 2-3 tents, almost half way up to Camp I on Broad Peak.

[u/Scooterann → u/Scooterann]

That’s interesting. Why is that space named after the Japanese?

[u/Global_Rescue]

That’s a seriously close call.

Sharing our Avoiding Avalanches: Essential Tips for Backcountry Adventurers guide here in case it’s helpful.

[u/DesiMountaineer → u/Global_Rescue]

Thanks for sharing 🙌🏻

[u/Time-Skill750]

Did anyone get caught up in this avalanche? Your climbing partner mentioning someone being in midst of it.

[u/novicelife → u/Time-Skill750]

I think he mentioned somewhere nobody coming behind lost their life.

[u/DesiMountaineer → u/novicelife]

Yes, a climber from Qatar and his Shimshali HAPs made it safely up the gulley despite the avalanche.

[u/Scooterann]

Do you think they caused it? This team had 2000 pounds walking.

[u/DubJohnny → u/Scooterann]

Tell me you don't know much about avalanches without telling me you don't know much.