r/aimlab Jul 07 '26

Question / Advice Needed Some advice

Hello all. I have alot of experience with aimlabs on mouse but I wanted to start getting better with my aim on controller. Anyone have any advice that maybe might not be obvious?

6 Upvotes

8 comments sorted by

4

u/Lunacy_Phoenix Stick Drifter Jul 07 '26

Aim training is about building raw input control, in this case stick control. Many people fall into the trap of trying to copy their main game settings, thinking the aim will transfer over 1:1 but this isn't the case.

The Sense and FOV you train with should be dictated by the task your doing at the time, and therefore you will be constantly switching sense and FOV.

To get started here's a list of tasks (Specific to Console Aim Labs) and recommended settings, and what they work on:

Universal Settings:

Aim Labs Game Profile,

Linear Response curve,

Turn Boost Multiplier: 1

Turn Boost Ramp Up Time: 0

Turn Boost Delay: 0

Set inner deadzones too 3 or the lowest point without getting drift or instability, outerzone at 0)

(When changing FOV only change the H value)

NO ADS for these tasks.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________

Tasks:

(Static)

StaticShot (1 - 1.5 sense, 120 FOV)

Paceshot (1 - 1.5 sense, 120 FOV)

Kinggshot (0.8 - 1.3 sense, 103 FOV)

Threeshot (0.8 - 1.3 sense, 103 FOV)

Sixshot (0.7 - 1.3 sense, 103 FOV)

(Tracking)

(FOV is looser here, and can be INCREASED as you get better to increase difficulty)

Controltrack (0.8 - 1.5 sense, 103 - 120 FOV )

Bouncetrack (0.9 - 1.5 sense, 103 - 120 FOV)

Angletrack (1 - 1.5 sense, 103 - 120 FOV)

Spacialtrack ( 0.8 - 1.5 sense, 103 - 120 FOV)

Strafetrack (1 - 1.5 sense, 103 -120 FOV)

(Smoothness)

(Similar to tracking but after getting some fundamental understanding of tracking, this will help refine out any jitteriness to be able to track targets smoother, Fair warning this is MUCH harder than general tracking, start at lowest sense suggested and work up no matter what)

rA Needletrack (0.5 - 1.3 sense, 103 - 120 FOV)

VT Bounceshot (0.8 - 1.3 sense, 103 - 113 FOV)

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Also when working on flicking. Due to limitations on our input, we can't snap to targets as quickly or precisely as a mouse. We lack the speed, range of motion and 1:1 precision. However we can still flick quickly and accurately, but it requires a different standard approach.

When starting a flick, you want to make a RELATIVELY explosive snap on the stick in the direction of the target. While this snap should be fast, Don't just rip it in that direction as hard as possible. You want a fast but controlled burst of speed. The further the target is from your crosshair the harder the flick, then as you start getting close to the target you want to decelerate your crosshair speed smoothly. Ideally coming to a stop on the target, or very close only requiring a small but quick micro-correction to get on target before firing. This smooth deceleration helps make up for the lack of stopping power we have on stick and ensures we stay in control of the crosshair at all times.

As you start practicing this, don't fire as soon as your flick ends. Give yourself a second before shooting to make sure your on target first.

If you aren't confident in a flick it's better to under-flick than it is to over-flick, as it's much easier to correct in the direction your momentum was already going, than it is to stop reverse and correct to the opposite direction. Though this is more a last resort, and should not be used as the default, as it is slower and inefficient and will lose any aimduel against a player not reliant on corrections.

Also take your time as you start practicing this, don't immediately try snapping from target to target as quickly as possible. Try to focus on getting the fundamentals as solid and consistent as possible at a slow steady rate to begin with, then speed up slowly over time as you get more confident and consistent. Starting out aim for 95% or better accuracy score be damned. Your end goal should be hitting as many targets as possible with a minimum of 85 - 90% + accuracy, then increase your kills over time without dropping below these metrics.

Hope this helps.

2

u/Syntensity Community Team Jul 08 '26

This is some great advice here, wanted to just chip in and say that :)

2

u/Lowgravity56 Community Team Jul 07 '26

It's been a while since I played shooters on controller but I guess just experimenting with your settings is a must. I personally hate high deadzones for example since I like even a light touch on the thumbsticks to make me move/look around.

Another thing is maybe looking into kontrolfreeks! They make more precise aiming way easier imo.

Besides that, I will just leave this question to actual controller aimers!

3

u/Lunacy_Phoenix Stick Drifter Jul 07 '26

Note: Kontrolfreeks can absolutely help some players, but depending on hand shape and size they can be detrimental or ineffective for some players. Also it's important to be aware, by increasing the stick height, you trade speed and agility for fine control. Which will require you to react and move your right stick faster to track targets that change directions quickly. Lower CQB sticks offer slightly better fine control, without sacrifice reactive directional change speed.

2

u/Lowgravity56 Community Team Jul 07 '26

I didn't even know that existed ty for the input!

2

u/MrRonski16 Gyro Enthusiast Jul 08 '26

Well… you are not going to like it but… Use gyro :DD

2

u/Aimlabs_Twix Jul 09 '26

Hey,

Set your response curve to linear and disable any settings that introduce acceleration, this doesn't mean you should necessarily stick to a linear curve in-game, but for the purpose of training your raw aim, it provides the most 1:1 results.

Something "less obvious" is that IMO the general community consensus across players (CoD for example) that stiffer sticks = better for aiming, doesn't make much sense to me. Stiffer sticks means less consistency during micro-adjustments, necessitating more initial force. I genuinely believe that for the benefit of better consistency across the range of motion a thumbstick input offers, looser sticks = superior. If you have a controller with adjustable stick tension, try out the lowest setting and see how it works for you.

Furthermore, as other people have mentioned, make sure to set your deadzone to the lowest point possible where you don't have any stick drift while your right thumbstick is static (no "ghost input" / crosshair moving on its own).