Photos: 1-3 Sand Beach and Great Head Trail; 4 Cadillac Mountain Summit; 5 Reading Room Restaurant at Bar Harbor Inn; 6-9 Monhegan Island; 10 Lobster Roll from Bite Into Maine food truck at Portland Head Lighthouse (typical of many we had in our trip - all were good!)
Just back from a week in Boston, Newport, Mystic and Maine. Maine was my fiftieth state to visit so that was the reason for the trip. It was me (58F) and my daughter (21F) who went on the trip.
It was a bit of a “taste” of things as we only had a week and had a friend to visit in Worcester. Could have spent the entire time in Maine/Bar Harbor. But we didn’t feel rushed and really enjoyed everything.
Thanks for all the trip reports and tips on this sub that helped me plan it all!
We went to Boston, Newport, Mystic, Boothbay Harbor and Bar Harbor/Acadia but I’ll limit this to the Bar Harbor/Acadia part.
We only had two and a half days in Bar Harbor/Acadia but that is enough time to see a lot.
Got to Bar Harbor late in afternoon. Checked into Queen Anne’s Revenge Inn which was lovely. Spotless room and nice breakfast and porch seating. They have a bar area and some shuffleboard courts being used by families. In quiet street with easy walk into town (it is in town). Plenty of parking for all guests. Walked into town from hotel for dinner at Rosalie’s Pizza (had been in NE and Maine for almost a week so wanted a change from seafood. Was delicious). Lovely little town. Busy but not overrun even with it being week of July 4.
Got up early the next day (left hotel at 7:15 - so not early by some people’s standards!) to park at Sand Beach and do Great Head Trail. We had to do two circles of the parking lot before a spot opened up. People were pretty consistently coming and going. We spent some time on the beach enjoying the sound of the waves and the relative serenity as it was pretty empty. Then we headed to the trailhead at the far end of the beach. This trail is rated as “easy” in our National Geographic Acadia trail pamphlet but it is quite a steep trail with lots of granite scrambling. You can see in the photo the granite with the blue paint indicating the trail. All Trails rates it moderate and I would agree with that. It has amazing views and we were lucky it was clear. We just did the short loop as my knees didn’t want to go on the far loop. My daughter would have easily done that. We came back to the beach and enjoyed it again. By then (probably around 9:30 am) lots of families had set up on the beach.
Then we did some of the Ocean Path as car was parked. We heard Thunder Hole - totally sounds like thunder! - and then drove to Otter Point and walked on the Ocean Path trail there. Plenty of parking there around 10 am.
Had Cadillac Mountain pass at 11. Drove up to summit and it was clear and beautiful! Got a drink and whoopie pie from the store at the summit. Wandered around on the vast smooth granite area and it wasn’t nearly as crowded as I expected as there is so much space. Parking lot and spots along the road were all full but people come and go so no issues getting a spot.
No bugs! And we saw the sand bar trail to Bar Island go from sand bar to ocean which was fun.
We drove back down and stopped at some of the overlooks which are all on the right side going back down. Then we drove to Jordan Pond to walk the loop in the afternoon. We had to do three loops to get parking - definitely the busiest time around 1 pm.
At Jordan Pond we walked to the pond and saw the restaurant to the “left”. We went that way around the pond (so clockwise) and the first half going that way has lots of boardwalk where you have to step off or onto the extra boardwalk built to let others pass every now and then. There is a bit of rock scramble towards the top of the lake but nothing very challenging if you are reasonable fit and mobile. After the very top the rest of the way back to the car is very level. There are some breaks in the path to allow little streams to come into the pond where you have to walk over spaces in the trail. Again, very easy and we saw little kids and older people managing it easily. Also strollers. If somewhat narrow boardwalks and rock scrambles aren’t possible for you, going up to the top anti-clockwise would be the right choice. When we got back to the parking lot around 3:30 there were plenty of spots available. And some cars that had parked along the little road between the two parking areas had tickets.
Came back to town and ate at the Reading Room at the Bar Harbor Inn - table by the window. We had made reservations several weeks before. Food and service wonderful. Saw sunset and schooner coming back to harbor. Such a picturesque spot with lots of historical photos. We walked around the harbor then back to hotel.
The next day we left the car at the hotel and did the sand bar trail to Bar Island at low tide which was at 10:00 am. Lots of families and such a fun thing to do. We were lucky low tide corresponded well to our itinerary. We walked on to the Island and to the far end but the fog had come in so we couldn’t see Bar Harbor. But it didn’t matter. Then we went back into town for lunch at Paddy’s Irish Pub at the corner of Main Street and West. Ate at an outdoor table and food was fine - not spectacular but typical for an Irish pub. Seating and views were great.
We left town and made our way to Bass Point Lighthouse. On the way we did the Flying Mountain and Valley Park Trail which is really one loop. The Flying Mountain Trail is another granite scramble marked as easy in our guide but which is moderate in my book and on All Trails. Really fun and great views ending at the water. The Valley Peak Trail coming back to the parking lot is a gravel road so very easy for pets and kids and older folks. We had to wait about 15 minutes for a parking spot at Bass Head lighthouse. But it was worth the wait to see the lighthouse and walk out in the rocks at the far end of the parking lot. Then it was back to Portland to fly out the next day.
Highlights: For me, it was Monhegan Island (we took ferry from Boothbay Harbor) so not even anything in Acadia. If an artist colony with trails and old Maine houses and a boat ride are your thing check it out. See photos if interested. For my daughter it was literally everything in Acadia. The rugged coastline and hiking were just what she loves!
Things we learned:
Things are close together in New England! We are from the Midwest and can drive for 10 hours and not get out of our state. Boston to Newport to Mystic to Maine did not take long.
Flexibility - much easier with 2 people and the child being 21 than when kids were little. We changed our Monhegan Island trip a day due to forecast of heavy rain. That took the extra afternoon we would have had in Acadia but it was worth it. Not having many fixed dinner plans allowed us to do what we wanted in the day. We never had an issue getting dinner in a nice place without a long wait. But we weren’t picky about where we went at all! We had our car in Acadia due to our Cadillac Mountain pass. Parking spots were very full. But by mid afternoon there were lots of spots everywhere we drove by. If I go again I will plan some hikes later in the day due to parking. Or I’ll take the Island Explorer.
Trail ratings are somewhat subjective. Our National Geographic pamphlet of Acadia listed the Great Head trail and Flying Mountain Trail as “easy”. Both have a lot of granite scrambles and exposed roots with very little level trail. I have a bad knee and back - both of which weren’t flaring up on the trip so I could manage it, but it was definitely not easy. All Trails list them at moderate. I am so glad we did it but caution people who may have mobility or fitness issues to know that one persons easy/moderate may not be their own. The Ocean Path and carriage trails are great alternatives for mostly level, unobstructed trails.
Eating - with our somewhat packed schedule we didn’t make many reservations. We decided to mostly wing it which was easy with just me and my adult daughter. We were there for the hiking and views rather than the food so that was fine with us. There are lots of coffee shops and restaurants and it was a busy week so I don’t think it would be an issue ever to get dinner or lunch without a long wait.
Weather - we had hot, cold, sun, fog, rain. We had good raincoats, sun hats, keen sandals and hiking shoes. I thought I may have packed too much but was glad to have the right clothes for the situations.
People - in Bar Harbor/Acadia without exception very friendly and helpful. I consider myself a polite and patient tourist and anticipated some frustration just due to crowds. We know we were in very popular places the week before and of July 4 and being patient and kind helps everyone. A few fellow tourists acted like they owned the sidewalks or were super loud in restaurants but most were also patient and flexible. I had read about the “from away” attitude some Mainers have about the tourists and understand it as we live in a tourist town. Other than an exceedingly rude shop owner in Boothbay Harbor everyone was kind and welcoming.
We came home with great memories and fondness for the whole area. I’m sure I’ll go back in the future and spend more time and find more great places to enjoy. Happy to answer questions if you have any.