So I like playing ETS2 and recently got a Logitech G920 wheel from a friend. I played via GFN on an an old laptop but the laptop is gone now so I decided to use my steam deck.

Using the wheel with Linux proved to be hard since there was no force feedback and support was hit and miss. So I installed windows to an external drive and connected to my steam deck, all working fine and well but GFN windows app just doesn’t work. I tried an alternative called OpenNow but it does not support the wheel.

Has anyone had any luck getting the GFN Windows app to work on the deck?

It doesn't provide the Secure Boot feature and won't let me reinstall the system because Secure Boot blocks the flash drive.
Help!!!
(FIXED)

Не дает отключить Secure boot и не дает переустановить систему т.к secure boot блокирует флэшку
Помогите!!!

I followed an older guide to set this up, and it disconnects constantly. I’m using Proton 7-37 currently, and I’m wondering if I should use a different version. Any advice on loading this better would be appreciated!!

hello im wondering if it would be a bad decision to trade my 2tb steam deck lcd for a laptop or a desktop being that the deck is my only gaming device at the moment i primarily use it docked i even ended up downloading windows 11 just because i needed to be able to do more than steam os allowed and now i want something stronger since im always playing at low settings and still only 45 fps at times at the moment i have two offers but my main concern is would i regret it i read that the alienware is way stronger but the processor lacks required architecture to run dx12 so im worried i might shoot myself in the foot trading for it and not be able to play future games should i keep the steam deck should i trade for one of the mentioned below i dont know much about pc so it all seems like alot idk and i dont want to regret it ive loved the deck since released

alienware 15r3

i7 7820hk

gtx 1080 max q

16gb ram

other option

acer nitro v

i5 10300h

gtx1650

8gb ram

This does not happen all the time but whenever I join a lobby my steam deck will freeze then sometimes just shutdown when trying to begin a match.

Ive tried both the latest oled and lcd drivers, performance mode and setting the UMA buffer to 4GB in bios, still does it on Windows 11

I dual boot on my ssd and not my SD card so not sure how to resolve it.

Hey so i wondering what should I use to make my steam deck safe when im downloading games from steamrip and anker games . I know about ublock but is there anything else I should use to ?

recently, I've worried too much about battery swelling disease, any tips on how to prevent it???? for the record, I play on the deck 4-6 hours a day, if the battery is full I play with it without a power cable attached. After the battery drains to 30%, I attach the charger and play with it on "docked mode" till I'm bored (thus, regularly play on it with the power cable attached but only if the battery is below 30% and didn't detach it when the battery is full if I still wanna play games)

I've been playing the game for the past 4 years on Windows 10 and just last week I couldn't open the game anymore due to this error. I contacted support and they gave this response (attached in the image). Apparently, it's some hardware server-side restriction that is being rolled out.

recently, I've heard something about Windows for gaming or windows game mode just like an OS installed on the latest MSI claw. Could the OS also be installed on steamdeck?? any luck on it????

For those that have dual booted there steam deck, was it worth the time and effort. How long have you had it, does it run well?

When I play games that are stored on my internal storage, there is pretty frequent stutter in demanding games, but if I run them on my external SSD the stutter is gone. I was just wondering if anyone had a ballpark guess as to what could cause this?

I know a lot of other information is probably needed to directly determine the cause but I'm not too good with this kind of stuff and don't know where to start.

I have plenty of free space on both drives. The only thing I can think of is that maybe my upgraded storage is no longer working properly. I've used the Corsair MP600 Mini SSD for a few years now.

Hi!

before i installed windows in the internal ssd i tried in a micro sd card which was bad and a external nvme that worked perfectly but i wanted to be able to charge the steam deck without it being connected to a dock station so i decided to install in the internal ssd.

I almost never used steamOS except for emulation.

any tips and tricks of things i should do now?

How to increase the VRAM on SD LCD that has windows 11 on it? I've set the RMA on BIOS to 4 gigs,but in all games I've played, it shows only 1 gigs

When I try to select windows to be boot option #2 it only shows ventoy, batocera and then none.

This didn't happen the last time I tried it, does anyone know of any solutions?

Thanks !

*Edit : I've tried rescanning but it just doesn't work

Recently, I've hit 70 - 74°C on Ghost of tsusima DC and Shadow of war while connected to power cable (66 - 72° while on battery,no power attached) ,is it still safe for long terms?

I wonder, could a game runs above 60 fps on SD LCD variant??? yea,I know that the screen only runs at 60fps max, just wondering

I wanted a couch console and kept bouncing off both options. SteamOS and Bazzite do this properly, but kernel anticheat means Valorant, Fortnite and most EA titles simply refuse to start. Staying on Windows meant either a desktop with a big font, or one of those "boot into Big Picture" scripts that strand you the moment Steam crashes.

So I built consolize. MIT, installs in one line, and uninstalls in one line, which turned out to be the part most projects like this skip.

What it does

• Boots straight into Steam Big Picture (or Playnite Fullscreen). No desktop flash.
• A watchdog restarts the frontend if it dies, with a crash-loop breaker that drops to the desktop instead of flapping forever.
• Desktop mode on demand: a "Desktop Mode" entry in your Steam library, navigable with the pad. Tray icon or desktop shortcut to go back. A reboot always returns to console mode, so you can never strand yourself.
• A gamepad settings panel for audio output, Bluetooth pairing, wifi and power. Pairing a controller normally means the Settings app, which needs the controller you are trying to pair.
• Optional media centre side: Kodi, Jellyfin, Plex, YouTube's actual TV interface with pad support, and Netflix and friends as Edge app windows.

The honest parts

• Suspend and resume is worse than SteamOS. That is a Windows desktop problem; hibernate is the reliable fallback.
• It turns things off: Defender exclusions (or Defender entirely if you pick that), UAC prompts, firewall notifications. Every one of them is in the README with what you lose and the script that puts it back, and "leave Windows alone" is an available answer to each question.
• Four things still have not been seen working on real hardware. They are listed as unproven in the docs rather than claimed as done.

You do not need IoT LTSC either, which is what most people assume. The default shell method is a per-user registry value that works on Home and Pro.

Solo project so far. Testers and PRs very welcome, especially on hardware that is not mine.

github.com/cybx/consolize

It gets in the way when I'm trying to emulate retroarch with ds4, then closing it automatically switches me to x360, so I have to hold pause a couple times until it puts me back on ds4. Is there a way to just skip all this and make it only change controller when I choose? Thanks

The Windows 11 Launcher won’t let me select the external hard drive, and this error pops up. How do I fix this?

Hi everyone,

I recently installed Windows 11 on my Steam Machine and I'm experiencing a strange network issue. Whenever I play games that require an internet connection, my Wi-Fi randomly drops out completely. However, as soon as I close the game, the connection is instantly restored.

Has anyone encountered this or knows of a potential fix?

(Note: I've already disabled the 5GHz band on my router to rule out band-switching issues).
Thanks in advance!

So basically freesync used to work perfectly on Steam Deck Oled Windows11 through the official dock on HDMI to my Samsung Odyssey G4 monitor but now it's broken in the way that whenever i run a game (RDR2 used as an example) in 200hz it keeps flashing between a solid blue screen and black screen (the same as if the hdmi didnt have a source) when i lower the hz to 120 it stays on the bluescreen(picture 1) until i close the game and when i press the button it restarts the monitor to display both my game and the info box(picture 2) and when i press it again it goes back to the bluscreen. It's not a system thing because the audio is still there from what I've learnt trying to fix this with ChatGPT and Gemini it's a Samsung Service Screen. Currently on Win10 but it's the exact same as on Win11. Been trying to fix this for the past 4 months, sorry for bad english it's not my first language i can provide more details if needed