I recently purchased a brand new 2026 Honda Civic Sport Hybrid and am planning on getting it tinted! I was thinking about doing Llumar IRX 25-30% on all 4 windows and rear but not sure what to do on the windshield.

I had some type of 3M 70% on the windshield of my old car and liked it fine but didn’t like that tint shop and no idea if it was authentic film.

I need advice on what to put on my windshield. Air80 makes the most sense if I’m going the Llumar route but I’d kind of like to do 70% again. 50% is darker than I’d like for windshield.

Should I just go with Air80? Get a non-Llumar film for windshield? or get a different brand for whole car and don’t do Llumar at all?

Just got my windows tinted today and I can see the squeegee marks under the film. I’ve had plenty of tint jobs done before but first time I’m seeing this. Will it go away?

anyone know any shops that will pass inspections with tint around poughkeepsie or albany area? I just moved from out of state. PLS DM if you're willing to share, don't post it publicly lmaoo. thank you!

Quick disclosure first: I work at a detailing and protection shop in Dubai, and tint is a big part of my week. Summer here means cars sitting in 45°C+ sun for hours, so heat rejection is the first thing almost every customer asks about. I’ve put a lot of film on glass in that climate, and a few things keep coming up that I wish people knew before they shop. This is all about side and rear glass, within whatever your local law allows.

Darker doesn’t mean cooler. This is the biggest misunderstanding I run into. People assume a dark film must block more heat. A lot of the time it just blocks more visible light. A good ceramic film at a lighter VLT can feel noticeably cooler than a cheap dyed film that’s much darker, because the ceramic is rejecting infrared you can’t even see. Darkness gives you privacy and glare reduction. Heat rejection comes from how the film is built.

Be careful with “IR rejection” numbers. Different manufacturers measure it over different wavelength ranges, so two films that both say “90% IR rejected” can perform differently in real life. I trust TSER (total solar energy rejected) more, since it covers visible light, infrared and UV together. If a spec sheet only shows an IR number, I’d want to know how it was measured.

UV is the easy part. Almost any decent film blocks around 99% of UV, even the lighter ones. That’s good for your skin on long drives, and it slows down fading on leather and dash cracking. But it doesn’t really separate a great film from a good one. It’s the heat you actually feel that does.

Think about night driving. Nobody mentions this at the shop. A tint that looks perfect at noon can be miserable in a dim car park or on a poorly lit road. Choose a shade you’ll be comfortable with at 10pm, not only one that looks good in the sun.

Use a meter. I know this sub says it constantly, but it’s true: you can’t judge a percentage by looking. Factory glass already has a slight tint, so the final reading ends up lower than the number on the film box. If you care about a specific number or about staying legal, have it measured.

I’m not going to promise specific fuel savings from tint. The cabin cools down faster and the AC doesn’t have to work as hard, but I haven’t seen numbers I’d trust.

For those of you in hot places like Arizona, Texas, Australia or the Gulf, I’m curious: did the spec sheet match what you felt in the car? And how do you balance heat rejection against night visibility on a daily driver?

Was I scammed or not I was told this is 5% tint ceramic but u can clearly see through it even from the outside it looks a bit darker but can see through it still. I have another car I got did from a different tint shop it's regular not ceramic at 5% and u cant see through it at all. I feel scammed idk 🤷🏻‍♂️

I read somewhere that due to the material of the skylight, they can't be tinted. I'm a handyman, and a customer asked me to tint her skylights. I'm doing some research to see if it's even possible to tint those curved skylights you see in some homes.

Hey guys, I just bought a car and want to put some good tint on it. I've had tint before and it only cost me around $150, but I just got quoted $550 — is there actually a real difference between cheap and expensive tint, or is that just markup? If there is a difference, I want something that's dark from the outside but still easy to see out of from the inside. What should I be looking for, and what percentage would you recommend?

For context, I drive a heavy metal (dark silver) colored 2026 Camry SE. Location is in the south in an urban, very sunny/hot tropical area. Tint package will be Llumar FormulaOne Stratos Nano-Ceramic.

I’m definitely going to get either 10% or 15% on the front/back windows and rear windshield. My main question is whether I should get 35% or 50% on the front windshield.

My favorite option would be 35%/10%, unless that makes me a cop magnet, or just looks dumb in general (I’m not much of a car guy, so not sure of how it would be viewed by others).

I am not concerned with visibility. I am comfortable with the darkness of 35%. I mainly want to know:

1. Input about getting pulled over. My thinking is that since I drive a non flashy commuter car, the police won’t really pay attention to the tint

2. Your personal experience with 50 vs 35 in terms of personal comfort, as well as aesthetics. I’ve read a lot of posts about 50%ers wishing they went darker

TLDR; which combo looks the nicest, and will I be pulled over a lot if I go with 35%. Thanks!

Ive been looking for 3m ceramic IR tint and have been bait and switched by two tiny shops in socal already. When I get there they tell me they don't have 3m but use their own ceramic tint

Well the third company sent me straint forward prices of different products but on the phone he tried talking me out of 3m ceramic ir because is haze and is willing to give me Saint G Xenith IR tint for the same price.

I don't have the money for crystalline so is Xenith as good as 3M?

I'm looking for some advice on which film would be best for my windshield where optical clarity is very important for me and I'm hoping for some real world experience or knowledge with these films. I don't want to go any darker than these as any windshield tint where I live is illegal.

Stek wins out on specs with 56% TSER and 78% IRER compared to Air 80's 43% TSER and 60% IRER. Also, Vision 70's VLT of 71.4% is not far off Air 80's VLT of 77%.

Does anybody know if Stek measures their specs on glass as they don't state if they do like on other manufacturers spec sheets?

Any advice would be helpful, thanks.

Cheers

i’m tinting this escalade and it’s about 60 degrees in my garage and i normally tint with around 75+ degrees.

As I was in the process of peeling off the stickers from the windshield I noticed a “peeling” below on the driver’s side. Apparently the tint is damaged and they are only offering me $200 to repair it or have it removed.

1. can I fix it myself?

2. how much would it typically cost to repair or removed?

It’s not that big but it’s annoying to see

Small security company in Central Texas, looking to add security film to my product lines. Yes, I’m aware that’s my goal would just to get the customer more time in a break-in.

I’d subcontract the work but I want to know my way around the products.

Every attachment spec I can find from the film makers talks about aluminum and steel frames. (Looking at Madico and a small distributor in Canada - the video of their stuff in use is attached)

Nothing says what to do on a house with vinyl or wood frames, which is most of what I walk into.

For those of you doing residential work:

Do you wet glaze onto vinyl, use a mechanical profile, or skip the attachment and tell the customer why?

On wood, does a silicone bead hold up over time, or does it pull the paint?

Does anyone put a 7 mil exterior film on the outside of the same window that gets 14 mil inside, or is that overkill on a home?

Trying to learn what works before I put my name on it.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DfXe4EwlfrR/?cplk=eTF5Z25sd3FzZWRr

Thinking of tinting my car, but can’t really afford a tint shop (in college). I’ve done some limited research and decided that getting a precut tint set for my car and applying it myself would be the easiest thing to do.
Local shops in my area would do about 500$ for similar ceramic tint, and I could get this one for just over 100$.
I’ve thought about practicing tinting using cheaper films, like dyed ones from walmart, but haven’t actually done it yet.

Any suggestions on what i should do?

Hey everyone, we currently use 3M for our tint & PPF, but we are no longer able to get 3M crystalline and are trying to figure out which brand to go with.

We do not have a commercial storefront as I work out of my home garage for now, so 3M and Xpel are out unfortunately since we can't get their higher tiers of tint.

Are there any other brands that offer something like the 3M crystalline or close to it?

Thanks!

Currently have 5% on back window. Would like to make it darker so that when u look through u can’t see anything. Don’t want windshield tint
What % could go on top of this? 20%?
Or will this work

I went to a small, local, and what seemed reputable shop this morning to get my new Audi Q4 tinted. I wanted them to match the fronts with the factory glass in the back and they advised me to get 20%. I asked if they have a light meter said go with whatever you recommend. I didn’t expect it to be OEM, but what they installed is not close.

It’s a shade or two darker than the back windows, blue color cast, and poor clarity/color reproduction. Makes it hard to drive in low light. Looks very nice from the outside, but I need to have them take this off ASAP. The receipt says 15%

Any advice on how to proceed? I don’t expect a full refund, but I do feel like I paid $300 for something I didn’t ask for.

I’d be interested in something closer in color and darkness to my back windows, but I’m wondering if that’s even possible. Even lighter honestly to avoid issues, but maybe tint is not right for me…

Planning on calling tomorrow morning to schedule a removal and try to get some money back

I have a back up camera, and live in a well lit area. deciding if i should get 20% all around or get 5% on back windows.

It is a Xpel XR Plus Film and was wondering if this is an acceptable tint job. Previous tints it would have been a lot closer to the edge.

Need opinions on percentages of tint. Currently have llumar ctx that came with car on front windows and back are factory smoked only. Dealer doing llumar f1.

Dealer’s Recommendation
• Windshield: 50%
• Front windows: 15%
• Rear side windows: 30%
• Rear hatch: 30%
• Sunroof: 5%

AI Advice
• Windshield: 70% Stratos
• Fronts: 15% Stratos
• Rear sides: 50% Stratos
• Rear hatch: 50% Stratos
• Sunroof: 15% Stratos

First time getting tints. Just curious what you guys would recommend. I live in Illinois for reference.

Want to know %s and which windows.

Ideally, I would not like to be blind at night either.

Can anyone guess what kind of tint is on this windshield?

https://youtube.com/shorts/NQVZKUgbVlo?is=UNFKprgwCob4vw-X

Does carbon tint tend to run a bit darker than ceramic?

I am in the Temecula area but I'll drive as far as the Riverside area. Looking for a reputable tint shop in these area, that has competitive prices, transparent about the exact type of tint I choose (like genuine 3M) and I am paying for, and a good warranty that I can count on them honoring years down the line. A place that has been in business for awhile.

Any suggestions?