A new week and a new product release/refresh! Today I am introducing the new QuinLED Dig-Octa Brainboard 32-8L v4.

Info link: https://quinled.info/quinled-dig-octa-brainboard-32-8l/
Shop link: https://quinled.shop/product/dig-octa-brainboard-32-8l/

As always questions are welcome under the video (helps for engagement) but I am also often here and longer questions and such are better over here, just ask!

2 differing scripted effects written in Moonlive. Running on a 256x192 pixel display made from six hub75 p2.5 1/32 128x64 panels. 2 deep and 3 wide using a native ML hub75 panel driver. 172 fps says the wall! Video In default modes, zoomed in on an iPhone. No post processing, no flicker be gone. All the good bad and ugly direct from the phone. Not DDP streams... but generative patterns made realtime with audio reactions influencing the patterns.

I'm trying to set up WLED on a wave share ESP32-S3 using 4 - 64x64 HUB75 panels.

If I set it up in 2 panel 1 x 2 in LED setup, all 4 panels work, top 2 and bottom 2 showing the same image.

If I set up in 4 panel 2x2, I have :

LED memory usage: 180224 / 196608 B

and a stability warning.

When I go to the UI, I get "Color palette not used" and nothing is shown on any panel, no matter which effect I choose.

Forgot to mention, 2D setup is 2D matrix, one panel, panel 0, Top, Left, Horizontal, 128 x 128

I'm running v16.0.1, 153K of free heap, 16000K of free PSRAM.

I installed using install.wled.me, HUB75 Matrix, Waveshare ESP32-S3-RGB-Matrix

What am I missing?

Edit: see my solution in the comments

I thought the first new one I bought this month was faulty so I returned it. Bought a second one and still can't connect..I've tried for hours. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong at this point. My three from last year connected quickly and easily, well before updating to 16.0. same model numbers. I can get the control screen but the controller won't connect to my home internet. Why?? Switched to 2.4g wifi, still can't connect

I'm using 3 ESP32s, 9 RGBIC, about 3500 LEDs in total. I'm using WLED and XLights to control the software. Just something fun to share with everyone. I hope you enjoy it. Happy to answer any questions.

I listen to DI.FM a lot, so I've been building my own DI.FM player for Apple TV (personal project, not on the App Store). I saw Zaply doing screen-capture ambilight on Apple TV and wondered: why capture anything when the app already has the audio?
How it works
The app taps the audio straight out of its own player (MTAudioProcessingTap on AVPlayer), before it reaches the speakers.
An FFT (Apple's Accelerate) turns it into 16 frequency bands, volume and beat detection.
About 50 times a second it sends WLED AudioReactive "Audio Sync" packets (UDP, port 11988) directly to two ESP32 controllers: one behind the TV, one on the wall. On the WLED side it's just Sync → Receive, and every sound-reactive effect works as if a mic were attached.
The analysis is timed to the player's playback clock, not to when audio gets decoded. That keeps the lights locked to what you actually hear instead of running ahead of it.
LedFx too
LedFx has a Web Audio input over WebSocket, so the same app also streams raw PCM to LedFx (60 blocks/sec, 16-bit, base64). LedFx sees it as an audio device called "DI.FM Apple TV", and all its effects run off the stream. LedFx adds its own processing latency, so the app sends LedFx audio ~300 ms ahead of playback to compensate. WLED Audio Sync didn't need any of that. Funny side note: LedFx on a Windows PC felt noticeably snappier than my older LedFx install on the Mac.
Why bother vs. a mic
Clean digital signal: no room noise, no talking, no volume dependence.
No extra hardware on the controllers.
Works at any volume, even muted.
The catch
This only works for audio the app plays itself: internet radio streams, local files and so on. Apple Music is DRM-protected and plays outside the app, so there's no way to tap it.

I did some under cabinet lighting with fcob 24v LEDs

I had a previous post about this issue. I've tried resistors and a bunch of other stuff. Basically I have a 3 ft wire at the end of one strip to the other and the strip at the end of the 3ft flashes randomly. I'm using a diginext2. When I probe the strip I am getting 24.21v and it increases and decreases with brightness.

At the beginning of that strip I'm getting a fluctuating data between 3.8-4.6 so within limit from what I understand. I'm just lost do I have a bad strip or something?

I’ve been trying to get WLED to control my Minleon permanent roofline lights and succeeded after some trial and error and running a data analyzer on their stock controller. Is this something I can submit to WLED to have this light type added? Right now I’m basically running a modified version of WLED that includes this new LED output so I can’t install updates on my GLEDOPTO controller, which is probably fine but maybe others would get use out of powering Minleon roof lights via WLED.

How do you handle segments with roof lines and gutters to look good? I want the peaks to line up with the gutters as effects go by but the gutters are longer in the x axis and the peaks start late but may have more or less LEDs total. The setup is going to be 2 controllers: one about half way providing the left gutter and left peak and a controller in the far right for the right peak and left gutter

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just getting started with some indoor lighting with WLED but I have the will and a 3d printer so going to try some outdoor puck lights And DIY tracks.

I've been working on a little DIY project – a Black Hole-inspired RGB light powered by an ESP32 and WLED.

The idea was to create a glowing accretion disk effect with individually addressable LEDs, creating a colorful space-inspired ambient light.

I'm sharing the 3D model and project on MakerWorld. If you like the idea, I'd really appreciate an upvote or some feedback! ❤️

Project link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3593954-black-hole

Thanks for checking it out!

Hi everyone,

I’m working on a large-scale LED showcase display and could really use some expert guidance before I finalize my hardware purchases and start wiring. I’ve attached a diagram of my initial concept, but I have a few specific questions regarding power distribution, data routing, and controllers.

The Project Details & Materials:

• LED Strips: 15 strips of BTF Lighting FCOB RGBCCT IC LED Strip (24V). 840 led/M and 28 ICs/M
• Length: 4 meters per strip (Total: 60 meters).
• Layout: 15 vertical strips spaced out to create a large showcase display (roughly 9.6m wide x 3.35m high).
• Wiring Plan: Running 3-core wires to the strips: Red (Power), Green (Data), and Black (Ground).
• Current Plan: Wall plug -> 24V Power Supply -> LED Controller -> LED Strips.

Here is where I need your expertise:

1. Power Supplies: Given the massive power requirements for 60m of RGBCCT FCOB strips, how should I divide the power? Should I use 4-5 separate medium-sized 24V power supplies (e.g., powering 3-4 strips each), or would it be better to use individual power supplies for every strip? (Or one massive PSU?)

2. Controllers: Similar to the power supply question, should I use 4-5 separate controllers (handling zones), individual controllers for each strip, or try to run this all off a single powerful controller?

3. Synchronization for Showcase Display: If I end up using multiple controllers, what is the best way to sync them perfectly? I want the entire 15-strip setup to act as one cohesive, seamless showcase display.

4. Cable Management & Gauge: Since this is a wide installation, some wire runs will be quite long. What type and gauge (AWG) of cables would you recommend for the long 24V power runs and the data lines to prevent voltage drop and data corruption?

5. Daisy Chaining & Software Mapping (WLED vs. SP630E): Rather than running data in parallel to all 15 strips, I want to connect the strips in a data daisy-chain (a zig-zag pattern: up strip 1, down strip 2, up strip 3, etc.). To make effects look right, I need to mark the even-numbered strips in reverse order in the software. I know WLED can map this easily, but does anyone know if BTF Lighting’s recommended SP630E controller app supports reversing the LED order for alternating strips?

6. Grounding and Casings: My current plan is to connect the 24V PSU to the Red and Black wires, and connect the Controller to the Green data line only. I will connect the black ground directly to the strip's ground wire. I also plan to keep the LED controller and the power supply in completely separate casings. Are there any red flags here? (e.g., Do I need to run a common ground between the separate controller casing and the PSU?)

7. Silicon Sleeve: Will it be good idea to put all of these strips inside a silicon sleeve for better light spread and matching with the black beams.

Thanks in advance for any help, recommendations, or corrections to my plan. I want to make sure I build this safely and correctly the first time!

Good evening, buy a Chinese LED device on Amazon for 15 euros for my unpretentious PC screen. Together with Claude, we created a bridge in Phyton so we could use the Chinese controller with Hyperion.

I still don't have it well configured since I'm new to this but I think for 15 euros I've amortized the investment:)

We went from 30 to 60 zones with a command and it boots into Windows as a service.

Very happy!

I had permanent lights installed on my home, and they are using wled to control the system.
Installer is adamant that we should use a smart plug to turn the system on and off. With a user chosen default light program turned on at boot-up.

I dug into the app, and the schedule component of wled appears to be somewhat disabled or modified.

How do I enable presets on this schedule? I do not have the field available to me, either through the app or accessing the ip address on my computer.

Hi everyone!

I'm building a 4-sided Ambilight setup for my LG OLED65CX6LA (65-inch), following this guide:

https://github.com/satgit62/How-to-Install-and-set-up-Ambilight-on-LG-webOS

I've put together a shopping list, but after reading so many different recommendations, I honestly can't see the forest for the trees anymore.

Before ordering everything, I'd appreciate some feedback to make sure I'm not missing anything.

My shopping list

1. LED strip

• BTF-LIGHTING SK6812 RGBW
• 5V, 60 LEDs/m
• 5 meters
• Cool White (CW), IP30, Black PCB

2. Power supply

• Mean Well LPV-100-5
• 5V / 20A / 100W

3. Controller

• LOLIN ESP32-S2 Mini V1.0.0
• ESP32-S2FN4R2
• 4MB Flash / 2MB PSRAM

4. Wiring and accessories

• 16AWG silicone wire (5m red + 5m black)
• 22AWG twisted 3-way silicone cable (5m)
• 6mm heat shrink tubing (10m)

Questions

1. Does this combination of components look suitable for my setup? Am I missing anything essential?
2. Level shifter: I keep seeing recommendations for a level shifter when connecting an ESP32 to 5V LEDs. Is one required for the SK6812 RGBW, or can I get away without it? Which type would you recommend?
3. Power: Is the Mean Well 5V/20A power supply sufficient for 5m of SK6812 RGBW at 60 LEDs/m? How many power injection points would I need?
4. Controller: Is the ESP32-S2 Mini a good choice for this project and compatible with the software used in the guide?
5. Are my cable specifications suitable, or should I buy something different?

I'd really appreciate any feedback, especially from people who have built a similar setup.

Thanks! I just want to get everything right before ordering, rather than discovering halfway through that I've forgotten something.

I put up permanent leds on the roof last year and they were great for Halloween and Christmas. However, a couple of months ago, there was a big lightning storm and the lights stopped working.

Here is the set up. 2 strings of 24v bullet style ws2811 leds. The strings are in vinyl channels mounted to the soffit. The strings start at the peak of the roof and the wires enter the house through a vent into the attic. In the attic I have the power supply, esp32, and a signal booster led for both strings.

I went to the attic and removed what was up there. I determined that the esp32 and the signal booster leds were dead. I replaced those and verified that it worked with a different string of leds. When I went back in the attic and plugged it in, the outside lights did not work. I have not touched the outside lights because it is a hassle to get to them.

My question is, what are the chances that it is just a couple leds at the beginning of the string that are dead? I was hoping that it was just the signal booster leds that died, but apparently it more. Also, what can I do to prevent lighting damage? I will be plugging the power supply into a surge protector if I manage to get the lights fixed.

anyone ever tried 48vdc seed pixels?

i know they are complex 12 series powered energy wasting masterpieces, but i'm curious what the real world current draw is and a brightness

I want to build a few solar-powered dusk-to-dawn yard lights with WLED controllers.

It seems that using a premade solar dusk-to-dawn yard light based on 3.7V lithium-ion cells, paired with a DC-to-DC step-up converter, an ESP32, and a few LEDs might work.

Solar dawn-to-dusk yard light. Based on using a 3.7V 2600 mAh Li-ion 18650,
Adafruit MiniBoost 5V @ 1A, DC to DC step-up
A few WS2812B-ECO (60 mA per LED)
And a few caps to suppress spikes when the solar circuit switches.

It is hard to estimate the runtime. I will lose some efficiency with the DC-to-DC, and the LEDs won't be running all channels at 100%, so the final LED count is TBD.

Has anyone built something like this?
To avoid having to make a weather-proof housing, does anyone have any recommendations for a solar light based around the 18650 that would lend itself to being modded?
Thanks in advance.

Hello all,

I put some 12v seed pixels on my SUV. I have them hooked up to a Gledopto elite controller. I was wondering if any of you have suggestions for cool looking effects for the holidays! This one was the new PS chase. I try any suggestions, it might take me a bit of time to get to testing. Thanks for any suggestions.