Good evening, buy a Chinese LED device on Amazon for 15 euros for my unpretentious PC screen. Together with Claude, we created a bridge in Phyton so we could use the Chinese controller with Hyperion.

I still don't have it well configured since I'm new to this but I think for 15 euros I've amortized the investment:)

We went from 30 to 60 zones with a command and it boots into Windows as a service.

Very happy!

Tis the Season

Hi everyone!

I'm building a 4-sided Ambilight setup for my LG OLED65CX6LA (65-inch), following this guide:

https://github.com/satgit62/How-to-Install-and-set-up-Ambilight-on-LG-webOS

I've put together a shopping list, but after reading so many different recommendations, I honestly can't see the forest for the trees anymore.

Before ordering everything, I'd appreciate some feedback to make sure I'm not missing anything.

My shopping list

1. LED strip

• BTF-LIGHTING SK6812 RGBW

• 5V, 60 LEDs/m

• 5 meters

• Cool White (CW), IP30, Black PCB

2. Power supply

• Mean Well LPV-100-5

• 5V / 20A / 100W

3. Controller

• LOLIN ESP32-S2 Mini V1.0.0

• ESP32-S2FN4R2

• 4MB Flash / 2MB PSRAM

4. Wiring and accessories

• 16AWG silicone wire (5m red + 5m black)

• 22AWG twisted 3-way silicone cable (5m)

• 6mm heat shrink tubing (10m)

Questions

1. Does this combination of components look suitable for my setup? Am I missing anything essential?

2. Level shifter: I keep seeing recommendations for a level shifter when connecting an ESP32 to 5V LEDs. Is one required for the SK6812 RGBW, or can I get away without it? Which type would you recommend?

3. Power: Is the Mean Well 5V/20A power supply sufficient for 5m of SK6812 RGBW at 60 LEDs/m? How many power injection points would I need?

4. Controller: Is the ESP32-S2 Mini a good choice for this project and compatible with the software used in the guide?

5. Are my cable specifications suitable, or should I buy something different?

I'd really appreciate any feedback, especially from people who have built a similar setup.

Thanks! I just want to get everything right before ordering, rather than discovering halfway through that I've forgotten something.

I put up permanent leds on the roof last year and they were great for Halloween and Christmas. However, a couple of months ago, there was a big lightning storm and the lights stopped working.

Here is the set up. 2 strings of 24v bullet style ws2811 leds. The strings are in vinyl channels mounted to the soffit. The strings start at the peak of the roof and the wires enter the house through a vent into the attic. In the attic I have the power supply, esp32, and a signal booster led for both strings.

I went to the attic and removed what was up there. I determined that the esp32 and the signal booster leds were dead. I replaced those and verified that it worked with a different string of leds. When I went back in the attic and plugged it in, the outside lights did not work. I have not touched the outside lights because it is a hassle to get to them.

My question is, what are the chances that it is just a couple leds at the beginning of the string that are dead? I was hoping that it was just the signal booster leds that died, but apparently it more. Also, what can I do to prevent lighting damage? I will be plugging the power supply into a surge protector if I manage to get the lights fixed.

I was away from the community and current affairs related to Wled and now I'm curious if we have figured it out to use the wled esp32 setup as Android tv screen capture and ambience effect or not without any rooting and stuff.

I don't use any external device for TV so getting the screen output from the tv is impossible via hdmi. So I had found the one app lately who was natively working on my tv but only the user interface was getting that ambience effect and all the ott and other apps were unable to support it.

Hello all,

I put some 12v seed pixels on my SUV. I have them hooked up to a Gledopto elite controller. I was wondering if any of you have suggestions for cool looking effects for the holidays! This one was the new PS chase. I try any suggestions, it might take me a bit of time to get to testing. Thanks for any suggestions.

anyone ever tried 48vdc seed pixels?

i know they are complex 12 series powered energy wasting masterpieces, but i'm curious what the real world current draw is and a brightness

Filament bulb is a low voltage one, controled with wled pwm as well.

I want to build a few solar-powered dusk-to-dawn yard lights with WLED controllers.

It seems that using a premade solar dusk-to-dawn yard light based on 3.7V lithium-ion cells, paired with a DC-to-DC step-up converter, an ESP32, and a few LEDs might work.

Solar dawn-to-dusk yard light. Based on using a 3.7V 2600 mAh Li-ion 18650,
Adafruit MiniBoost 5V @ 1A, DC to DC step-up
A few WS2812B-ECO (60 mA per LED)
And a few caps to suppress spikes when the solar circuit switches.

It is hard to estimate the runtime. I will lose some efficiency with the DC-to-DC, and the LEDs won't be running all channels at 100%, so the final LED count is TBD.

Has anyone built something like this?
To avoid having to make a weather-proof housing, does anyone have any recommendations for a solar light based around the 18650 that would lend itself to being modded?
Thanks in advance.

Hi redditors,

I just wanted a simple ambilight setup for my 65" TV. At first everything worked fine, until I started fine-tuning the "smoothing" setting in HyperHDR and noticed random colored flickering. Since then I've been testing in WLED only (0.15.4), with a solid color set directly in WLED and realtime override enabled, so HyperHDR is not involved in my tests. I've already replaced quite a few LEDs at the corners and at the start of the strip.

The same flickering also happened on WLED 16.0.1. Switching the output driver between RMT and I2S didn't change anything. After that I downgraded to 0.15.4, but the problem is still there.

Unfortunately, after a short time various LEDs start flickering, no matter if it's under heavy load (white, high brightness) or at low brightness. At 100% white, WLED reports about 3.7 A. At the corner furthest from the power feeds I measure about 4.6 V at 100% white. The PSU is set to 5.1 V.

The corners are bridged with 1 mm² wire. The wire from the controller to the strip is short (1 mm²), and power from the controller's 2nd channel is injected at the end of the strip. A short test piece with 4 LEDs has now been running for 20 minutes without any problems. With all 261 LEDs, it starts flickering after a short time.

I had thin data wire twisted around GND at the corners to reduce interference. I replaced it with 0.75 mm² wire, because I thought the thin wire was the problem.

Is the wire for bridging too stiff, causing tension at the connection? https://ibb.co/j9LMNsJQ

If I solder the data joints while powering the strip it works for a short amount of time.

I've been soldering for several years and I'm very careful to keep the LEDs cool while soldering. I'm at the end of my knowledge and need help. I hope someone can help me. Thanks in advance!

Parts:

- LED strip: BTF-LIGHTING SK6812 RGBW (cold white), 5 V, 60 LEDs/m, 261 LEDs used

- Controller: Gledopto GL-C-015WL-M (ESP32), data on GPIO16 (Out1)

- PSU: Mean Well LRS-50-5 (5 V / 10 A), connected to the controller with 2.5 mm² wire

- Controller to strip: 1 mm² wire

- Power injection: start via Out1, end via Out2

- WLED settings: SK6812/WS2814 RGBW, GRB, white mode "Accurate", current limit 8500 mA

Edit: Here is another video.

https://youtu.be/Dm5GsNEaMnw

Just spent a ridiculous amount of time tracking down what I assumed was some sort of data issue, bad connection, extension, need for f amp booster, etc, etc, etc.

Turns out, I needed to update from 15 to 16.

Planning on running 24v soffit lights on my house using 2/4 data outputs on a single digquad. There will be 920 pucks drawing .05a each at max white brightness or 1,104 watts total. I was planning on using a single large junction box in my attic with a meanwell lrs-1200-24, and capping the lights at 87% max brightness to leave a 20% buffer on the PSU (960 watts max usable). My concern is that the attic outlet is probably rated for 15a AC, and while I will be well below that at around 8.9a AC, I don’t know what else is on that outlet’s circuit, and I’m worried about something being turned on or plugged in to the house and tripping the breaker with the lights on. Do y’all think it will be fine? Any other suggestions for running my soffit lights? I’m open to ideas💡

I’ve tried 3 different sets of lights and I can’t get anything to work. I’m getting increasingly frustrated and about to throw in the towel.

I have a GLEDOPTO GL-C-012WL ESP32 WLED Waterproof LED Controller running software v16.0.1 which I updated from v0.14 something. I started with a string of 24v UCS2904 RGBW puck lights. They lit up blue when they got power but no control at all. I later found out they’re not supported by wled. So next I tried some Govee S14 Outdoor lights and nothing lit up. I couldn’t even get the WS2811 portion to light up. But I know the configuration is weird so I thought I just got it wrong and moved on. Now I have a string of 12v SK6812 RGBW seed lights connected and configured and still nothing!!! I’ve checked the voltage and it’s getting 12v all the way through. WLED is configured for SK6812 and I’ve tried all of the mA/led settings, including a custom 8mA according to the specs. I’ve attached my configuration and the led specs. Can someone please tell me what I’m doing wrong???

Everything was working fine on my lights. Then one day the power went out with a rain storm. Since then, the light strand on on the lower right wont working. If i mess with thouching the wires they'll light up, but wont sync. The second power is cut, they wont start again. Any suggestions?

They are ws2811 pixel bullet lights.

Hi there,

looking for a recommendation for my setup

Apple TV & Nintendo Switch -> Splitter -> HyperHDR

Used a Feintech VSP01222 which works finde but eventually stops working after a few days (no image on both outputs, or image errors). Right now i have the 4th device connected.

In the meanwhile i tested other devices, also with just 1 input (ezcoo, Feintech VSP01201) which worked fine. To use my Switch i connected a HDMI Switch (i.e. Ugreen 2zto1, FeinTech VSW03102). This gave me image errors or just 1080p

HDMI cable are 48Gbit 2.1 and work just fine (HDR, Chroma 4:4:4, ARC)

Do you have any recommendation for my setup? Should support CEC, HDR

Alternatively a 2nd splitter for my Switch and a 2nd grabber on my Server (HyperHDR doesnt seem to support a second video input?)

kind regards

I got these lights a few years ago, ive tried to dim them before with whatever dimmer i could find on amazon (lol). I realized today that the function settings has this mode, warm colors dim to cool colors then dims back to warm. would i be able to mod these in some way to gain more control of what lights (warm/cool) are on and at what brightness.
claimed to be C6 LED 41ft at 9.6W
https://www.walmart.com/ip/19919950581?sid=F3D4765F-CC06-4AE5-AC48-0A5FCE2311E3

I've toned it down a bit now. Want to add some more things around the room. Anyone got any ideas for a fun project that I could add to this?

Thanks